I have 2 stihl products that require their 50:1 mix. I always use the HP Ultra (fully synthetic). I have also run this mix in my duraforce and F engined lawnboys with no problems. You should be fine.

All good advise above. I love my 488, but it wouldn't be my first choice if I wanted to saw logs in half lengthwise. If you like your Shindaiwa dealer there is a lot to be said for one-stop shopping. For machines under warranty it's nice to be able to use the same 2-stroke oil, too. As far as starting gimmicks, the Shindaiwa is one of the easiest starting engines I have ever owned. My Husqvarna 55 had a compression release to make starting easier, and I don't miss it on the Shindaiwa. At the same price, you are either getting an incredible discount on the Shindaiwa 488 or royally ripped off on the Stihl MS250. Before you step up to a Stihl 361 I'd suggest you shop some other Stihl dealers. Sorry, I haven't discovered what it is about arborsite that makes it ten times better than this forum for chain saw questions. A large percentage of the content is people talking about how to cut up their mufflers for more power, and another large percentage involves people shipping their saws off to some guru to have them modified. I used to do that kind of thing with motorcycles, so I understand the attraction, but I don't see how it applies to the average firewood cutter. Not to say arborsite has no value. If you want to ask what chain is best suited for a specific kind of wood or some other detail question, the people there are very helpful.

YardArtist: Don,t understand why you felt required to edit your previous note rather than continue your contributions in a new note. Anyhow yes my 460 Rancher is a Prosumer Grade Saw . Your Stihl 460 along with my current Stihl MS-250 and MS 361 and Husky XP-346 and Dolmar PS-9000 are Pro Grade Saws. They do produce considerable more Peak Horse power within a higher rpm range with a nominal higher compression ratio , than does the Rancher which is more of a Torque Driven Middle Weight . However neither one of my saws with or without decompression usage fail to start within 1or two pulls. Even as previously advised my Old Pioneer 90 cc or my New Dolamar 88 cc both with 36 inch bars that routinely cut Red Oak and Canadian Maple like Butter. The most I use the decompression feature on any of my saws is to quickly purge the fuel charge , rather than to have to remove the spark plug when the saw has become flooded , which is very seldom. I realize that some owners as you have advised have little experience within saw dynamics therefore rely on video's to understand proper starting techniques . Not a bad idea since all saws are unique . However the issue with all my Stihls today and 3 yrs ago is EPA (lean burn) Carburation which in some cases due to elevation even requires rejetting . Like I said previously proper saw storage and fuel treatment during said storage is the Key ! As a Newbie to the Forum Welcome aboard and Happy Cutting ! I will be sure to advise you when this 60+ Old-Timer requires the Decompression Button to start any of my units Possibly next week when I finish my last 10 cords :)

Newjerseybt, "I noticed that the MS 361 saw sells at a zero discount so the best place to buy is where the best service is." I agree wholeheartedly. All Stihl dealers are supposed to be full service, but there are good ones and then there are better ones. The Stihl dealer where I bought my MS361 had orange chainsaw pants that looked kind of poorly made, so I went to a different Stihl dealer (who sold several makes of chainsaws) and liked the look of the Husqvarna chainsaw pants, so I got them. They were also orange. I kind of wanted chainsaw pants in an overalls style, so they they could hang from my shoulders and not from my waist, but none of the dealers that I checked had that style. I still put on my chainsaw pants every time I use the saw, although I have never had an incident. My wife insists I wear the orange pants. They go on sort of like chaps, so they are relatively easy to put on and take off. Presumably they are filled with a fibrous material that will gum up and stop the chain before it can get through to do damage. I keep my bar-release tool in the pocket of my orange pants, in case a tree "captures" my chainsaw bar, so that I can quickly move the expensive part of the saw to safety. Another thing that you will want is a good chainsaw helmet. It combines a face mask, a hard hat, and ear protectors. (When I am felling a tree I keep the ear protectors up, because I want to hear any creaking noises the tree is making.) In the Stihl catalog I saw a chainsaw helmet with a full length face protector made of clear unbreakable polycarbonate plastic, but my dealer said that one wasn't available in the USA, so I got one with a black screenwire face mask instead. After using it for a bit I came to like the black screenwire mask because you can see through it just fine and it won't fog up like nearly everything else I have. My regular eyeglasses have polycarbonate lenses, so they provide some additional protection but sometimes they fog up almost as bad as my safety goggles. I have taken to using my chainsaw helmet when I am using my MacKissic shredder-chipper, as a much superior alternative to the safety goggles and separate ear protectors that came with it. The goggles always fogged up in a couple of minutes. I do most of my chainsaw work and shredder-chipping work during the fall and winter, when the air is cooler and fogging up is a problem. My spring and summer are more devoted to gardening and landscape related activities. Since I do a significant amount of chainsawing in cold weather, I have some of the Stihl brand winter grade bar & chain oil (it comes in a blue plastic jug). It's significantly less heavy than the summer oil. I also have some of the Stihl brand summer grade bar&chain oil, in the orange jug. Some people have been known to use old motor oil in their chain saws. Don't do that, that's just crazy. Your chain saw deserves the best bar & chain oil that you can get. I'm not sure that the pros would agree that the Stihl oils are the best. My dealer "threw in" a jug of Otasca bar & chain oil with my MS361, and that stuff was good. Talk about thick and stringy--that stuff was what they call "long". I think it was considerably heavier and stringier than the Stihl summer oil. I bet the pros prefer that stuff, because they run their bars and chains smokin' hot anyway, and don't need no wimpy winter oil. When it comes to chainsaws, I am more of a "weekend warrior" and the Stihl summer & winter oils are fine for me. Just remember, when your chainsaw is really cold, don't stick your tongue on it. Especially not on the sharp part. And especially not if it is running. (grin) MM