I have broken a favorite bowl made from hypertufa, and I managed to repair it and it has held up all year. My bowl shattered into several pieces, but I put them together like a jigsaw puzzle using Quikrete Concrete Repair in a Tube. I emptied all the soil and let it set several days in the garage to make sure it was dry. Then I applied the stuff into all the edges and put them together as best I could. I have a streak through the bowl now in several spots. But I loved it so much, it was worth it. Now I like it even more since I read about kintsugi philosophy. Of course I wasn't using silver or gold, but the philosophy of something becoming more valuable because it was shattered and put back together meant a lot to me at that time. Sometimes from a great hurt or injury, we get a life lesson . We all have our scars. I still have my bowl and it is just fine! Hope you can repair yours.

I don't see why it WOULDN'T work...like you say, the concept is the same. I would be concerned about headroom, so I might consider propping some 2L bottle halves in various places to keep the tarp up, and secure it down on the edges...still adding your vent-holes. BUT...the other huge concern is still those weeds. Professional grow mix, or prepared seed mix won't likely produce as many weeds as you'll probably still get with your tarp setup because the weed seeds are already present. I'm sure others will chime in.

Those rocks and boulders you're digging out. Personally, I love dry stone walls as they have huge potential for growing various ferns and other treasures. You might also want to construct them with soil in pockets on top for planting things that require excellent drainage. Have you decided on your overall garden scheme? If you plan to use a lot of shrubs, or develop the woodland, then the sooner the shrubs are in the sooner the bones of the garden are developing. You can always take out the sheltering nurse plants when your treasures are established. If you clearfell a lot of scrub then the weed seeds in the duff will respond to the extra light, warmth and moisture - and you'll be fighting the green tide. It can be more effective to clear smaller areas, intensively weed and mulch, plant into annuals that you weed frequently to repeatedly reduce the fresh weed burden. If you are a stay at home serious gardener then a 300' strip won't seem too bad. If you have entertaining to do, or a business to run, you'll be forever in catch-up mode, and that's no fun. Cardboard needs to be laid overlapping to exclude the light. It can work. So can old jute-backed woollen carpet. (Well, any carpet, really, but it can be yucky when it degrades.) If you like them, then conserve any natives and ferns that may have settled in. 'Free' groundcover for now. Learn your local weeds - and how to deal with them. Something you might have previously treasured can turn out to be a serious thug in a new location. It doesn't even have to be declared noxious for it to be a bane in a particular garden. (Solomon's seal and bluebells...aaaargh!) You might find a mattock to be a useful addition to the toolkit. Well-sharpened for hacking through roots, and also good for prising out rocks. If your garden path system is still primitive - you might find that a sturdy vinyl tarpauline with rope handles at one end is of much more use than a barrow or cart for hauling away slash, weeds, and even small stumps. Truly sounds like a lot of fun - but I think I'll keep the thistles and blackberry I'm currently tackling. I wouldn't know what to do with poison ivy!

I have really bad grass and weeds that spread by runners so on existing beds, I cover with black plastic to kill the weeds making them much easier to remove but it does require a good spading fork. But for new beds, a good hand weeding tool should be sufficient. I like something similar to a cobra headed weeder. you scrape thru the soil about 1" deep or less. If the weeds are thick, I also use the tool to rake them into piles that go into buckets to dump in our weed pile. If you start doing this when the weeds are just visible, you can just leave them on the soil surface to die. I had much more success with my garlic bed by covering the patch with straw after planting in late October. It will grow up thru the straw but most weeds stay smothered. It doesn't take long to drag a hand weeder between each row. Keep in mind some of the seed is going to drop in via air or birds. I've had new weeds show up (last year a very bad thistle) that had never been in our yard before.