Yes they can. Because of the low C:N ratio that material would tend to get quite hot and most likely would smell offensive while composting, but it would compost.

yes. I do it all the time.
when ever I don't clean the clippings off my lawn mower. eventually they turn into caked crumbly compost. Basically black dust. I don't do it on purpose, I'm just lazy.
On a large scale? I have no Idea how you would do it other than just let it sit?
:)Laura

Oxygen in the air is a big trouble. First stage of composting is bacterial dominated. Aerobic bacteria, respectively. Some of them are good, but mostly they turn the process to putrefactive way. It's the reason to put food in refrigerator or use vacuum cooking battery where air is eliminated. Otherwise food spoil, i.e. has many toxins and foul odours. The same is with compost.

The other way of composting greens is anaerobic composting such as bokashi. It's a little more complex but the result is much more useful. This process is called fermentation.
Fermentation is fundamental thing in the life. It is made by enzymes and it makes enzymes which control ALL functions in living body begining with bacteria and ending with banana tree and elephant. Anaerobic compost with enzymes will give enzymes for plants (and soil life) among other things. Some ezymes in such compost are antioxidants. They help plants to enforce their antioxidant system and thus significantly improove their photosynthesis.
So, the best way to compost greens is anaerobic.

@ valerie ru,

What do you use for EM when you bokashi compost? Acidophilus powder?

No, I use the thing that is very similar and almost equal to EM-1. It's very cheap and easy to make. I dissolve rye flour (other cereal grains' flours also can be used, but rye flour is the best, IMO) in water in ratio 1:10 by volume and let it sit 2 days. Then I add some molasses and keep it in the glass vessels closed under the lid (to prevent oxygen penetration) under the sun rays. It stands from some days to 3 weeks. This stuff is called kvas on Russian. It's acidic and its microbial composition: lactobacteria and yeasts. I suppose that there are phototrophic bacteria too.
This composition of microorganismes is the same as in EM-1. Then it's diluted in water in ratio 1:10 and can be used for making bocashi by sprinkling kitchen wastes every time when they added to compost bin.
I also use it for sprinkling and watering plants.
And I also drink it.
I have EM-1 at home too so I can compare. Generally kvas works the same or even better than EM-1. It is a great starter. The difference between EM-1 and kvas is that EM-1 can be kept very long time. But since I can make kvas very quickly during 2 days I see no sense to spend money on EM-1.

Here is a link that might be useful: Microorganisms in EM1

Thanks Valerie ru,

So after adding 10 parts water to 1 part rye flour you let the mixture sit in a clear (not opaque) air-tight bottle for 2 days. Then you add molasses and let it sit yet again for a few days to 2 weeks. Could regular sugar be used in place of molasses?

After this you dilute with water yet again in a 1:10 ratio? (At this point it appears me the rye flour is diluted to 1:100).

So you don't mix this "finalized solution" with bran right like the people using EM-1? You just pour the 1:100 diluted rye/molasses mix directly on the greens? Do you let the sprinkled greens ferment in a closed container at this point? Or do you just bury in the ground immediately?

I appreciate your help.

The best way to use kvas is sprinkle it over the plants.

Well, I have some time now for more detailed answer.
Sugar can be used instead of molasses approximately 1-2 teaspoons per litre, but molasses is better.
Yes, I sprinkle vegetable kitchen wastes with diluted rye/molasses mix and keep them in black plastic bags.
As for grass and grass clippings they can be sprinkled in a pile and covered with plastic film also. This is called sillage in agriculture. It can be done without rye mix, but it goes more reliable with it and fast and better quality. It is better to mix grass with some soil to make the pile more dense and compact in order to leave less air there.
After 3 weeks it will be a wonderful compost (bokashi).

My 'greens' are composed mostly of fish scrap (heads, guts, skins, bones, etc). I get more than i can compost, so I'm always lookign for ways to do it more efficiently. At present, I combine it with sawdust, shredded paper and/or wood chips. in 4'x4'x4' bins. If I get the scrap to sawdust ratio right, only odor is a slight barnyard (ammonia) smell, but if it goes wrong, i.e. if I use too much fish or don't layer it thin enough or for whatever other reason, there can be an overwhelming odor of putrefaction.
Valerie, can you or someone help me understand the two chemical processes, and in particular, what can I do to a pile that shows early signs of putrefaction to turn it back into the normal 'ammonia odor' mode.

Thanks in advance.

container_blueberry, just out of curiosity, what are you composting that is 100% greens?

Greens do become browns as they decompose. Greens are green because they contain a relatively high amount of protein relative to the amount of carbohydrates they contain. High might mean 5% or more protein. Corn has about 8%, soybean meal has about 35%, and meat is nearly all protein. Browns are brown because they contain very little, if any, protein. As the protein in a green decomposes (and that is the smelly part), the ratio of protein to carbohydrate drops and eventually you are left with decomposing carbohydrates (browns).

josko,

As EM-1 companies advertise:
"If there is one thing that is ALWAYS consistent with EMÂ1®, it is its ability to control odors."

I use fermented rye flour/molasses solution and for me it works the same as EM-1 that is very effective in odor control.

This process is not chemical but biological. Bacteria in EM-1, purple non-sulfur bacteria (PNSB), has nitrogen-fixing capability. They merely "eat" sucn substances as NH3 which input to "odors". Moreover, they "eat" methane CH4, hydrogen sulfide H2S, and other "odor" compounds. That is why they are effective in odor control. Then they tronsform these substances to non-volatile matter inside their bodies. More interesting, the resulting substances made by PNSB from toxins have antioxidant and healing properties. Thus, they regenerate environment from sick to healthy state.

If you use sawdust, it's fine to sprinkle each layer with rye flour/molasses solution every time you add OM to bin.
You will be surprised how amasingly it works against odors.

Here is a link that might be useful: Odor control