Plants don't like pot/soil combinations that allow significant fractions of the soil to remain soggy/saturated for extended periods. Better, are soils that are always so well-aerated that if there IS a fraction of the soil that tends to remain soggy after a thorough watering, it's only a very small fraction of the soil. I don't know of anyone here that uses MG or MG Moisture Control straight from the bag (without amending in an attempt to increase aeration and how well it drains). Your soil choice probably has more influence on your ability to consistently bring along healthy and attractive plants than any other decisions you're likely to make re a planting, and gaining an understanding of how water behaves in soils probably represents the largest step forward a container gardener can take at any one time. Let me know if you're interested in expending a little effort to chase this thought a bit. If you are, I'll provide some links to threads right here at GW that I'm sure will offer some valuable insight. Al

Ellen, if you have been buying top soil, or garden soil of some type - that's the wrong product. I use actual sterile seed starting mixes only for things to be sown indoors. You don't need them for winter sowing, and there are no nutrients at all in those, nothing to support seedling growth after germination without your attention. Basically all potting mixes/mediums, or potting soils, products made for growing plants in containers, are without soil - they are soilless. Reason being true soil will tend to compact, not supply adequate aeration or drainage for good root development whether using it for growing seedlings, or mature plants on your patio. You said something in another post about the quality of Scotts Premium Soil and I wondered then if you had bought Premium Top Soil, or Premium Potting Soil - two very different products, different use intended. For winter sowing you want a product made for growing plants in containers, not one specifically made for starting seeds.....not those spendy little lightweight bags :) Fine Gardening "The term potting soil has become something of a misnomer in todayÂs world of container gardening. Most bags of potting soil contain no soil but are composed of a variety of organic and inorganic materials and are referred to as soilless mixes. "

The connection was just that - if you can keep up with the watering routine, most plants can be grown similarly in terms of potting mixes. The 511 mix allows for ample drainage and water retention; per my research, such soil characteristics suit most plants coined as houseplants equally well. I am entirely open and appreciative of suggestions though, so please let me know your thoughts. In all honesty, this Croton plant is in my 'dispensable' collection. I did this 511 mix repot primarily as a summertime experiment. If it thrives throughout its summer outdoors, great; if it does not, I will still be pleased with having learned that much more about appropriate mixes for my houseplants in years to come. As results become evident, I will gladly share the feedback with our fellow GW'ers.

There are 2 perspectives from which to view the frequency with which a grow medium requires you to water a planting. From the grower's perspective, a need to water every few days (say, 3-5) might seem like an inconvenience. From the plant's perspective, however, it's a godsend. When a grower is accustomed to measure watering intervals in weeks instead of days (because of the grow medium being used), it's easy to become conditioned to the idea long watering intervals should be considered the norm, even when a planting's ability to hold water enough to provide long intervals between waterings (measured in weeks) is innately limiting to root function and often wrecks root health. If the grower is willing to water as often as required, it's far more often true than untrue that the more frequently a planting actually needs watering, the greater will be the plant's/plants' opportunity to realize a greater measure of its genetic potential. Excepting instances where the grower is withholding water intentionally to force a consequential dormancy, or, when the plant material is known to appreciate (different than 'tolerate') going completely dry, watering intervals much longer than 5 days at most, would be listed in the 'limiting conditions' column. The media I make and use usually offer 3-6 day watering intervals over winter, indoors, under lights, and 1-3 day intervals outdoors all summer. That is by design and not happenstance; this, because longer intervals cause a loss of potential that's quite conspicuous once you've had a basis for comparison. I'd skip the rooting in water - it's far more headache than it's worth. Al