Lantana is hardy here so we don't move them, but based on having grown them for years, here's my best guess. I dont' see why you can't take them inside. I think I would dig them and pot them now in a good quality potting mix, but leave them outside. Wait until their first leaf killing frost and then take them inside. Cut them back to about 6 to 8 inches, and cut way back on their water. I would let them get dry between waterings. They go dormant in the winter anyway, so I don't think they would need much, if any, light. It's highly likely that your basement will be warm enough. They are reliably hardy into the teens, maybe hardy even to zero. Look at it this way, you have almost nothing to lose, and alot you may learn.

There are many shade or partial shade loving plants to use in a gazebo or pergola. The above are good suggestions but I'll give you a few more. Think a little about the falling spent blooms. A plant shedding profusely can even be slippery underfoot. Coleus makes a bright, full basket for shade with no blooms for instance. Browallia does well too. Both can be seed started. Ivies or many foliage plants you'd use indoors if you want to take slips from them. Most folks can start them even in water. Fuschias or bacopa do well in partial shade. Illumination begonias are drop dead gorgeous. You can seed start them, but it's not for the faint of heart. Many begonias (like non-stop or reiger) can be started from purchased tubers rather inexpensively.

I looked at the "I grow" statement and I've said the same thing myself. What I refer to is that in a business, all members don't automatically "grow". I am the primary grower and list myself as such. I think the post just wanted some hints on how to produce nice baskets, and what we find helpful. Pretty innocent and perhaps the responses were enough to put the poster off, if he/she were a shy person. I remember in ag econ class........we were discussing the law of diminishing returns. An assumption is made, if you are in the business, one is capable of growing any quality of product they wish. IOW, where is the most profitable point on the line for maxing out profit for $$$$ put in. It's not always the best product who is the most profitable. I try to produce the best product I can where I can still get a high return. Not the best return, because quality is an issue I feel helps to sell my product overall as opposed to mass produced. As a "farmer" and that is essentially what we are........one is always at the mercy of some variables. Weather is the most obvious. I've had cold, dark springs where no matter how much heat I throw to a crop, they are more spindly than I'd like from low light levels. Sometimes I'm the victim of poor cutting quality. Sometimes an unexpected pest outbreak robs the pots of the vigour they should have before the pest is identified and treated. So, there are many variables to consider and the same crop may need to be grown in different ways every year to achieve maximum quality. Firstly.....don't stint. Use an appropriate number of cuttings, and if in doubt go higher instead of lower. May cost more in the initial, but also could cut down on pinch or chemical pinch applications. So, may be cost effective. Secondly, good scheduling. Know how many weeks it's going to take beforehand so that time is allowed for growth and pinching. Thirdly, start with high quality stock. This can be trial and error, but is essential. Find a source you can trust. Fourthly, yes........good soil. You can make your own quality soil. I worked for a large concern where we did, but it is not usually price effective for a smaller grower. Know your fertilier needs and use them, and use care on salts buildups. More isn't always better and I do leach outs on a schedule. Pest control. One of the worst enemies of small cuttings or plugs in large pots is fungus gnats. I seldom have a problem with them because one skill I mastered early was watering. Wet soil and fungus gnats can set your schedule and quality back more quickly than anything I can think of. If you do get them, get rid of them pronto. And of course heat is an issue. Basket crops can be grown cool. If one does, however, choose the old fashioned way of not pushing a crop, they have to allow for more bench time. That may.......or may not........be cost effective in the long run. Know your numbers and be realistic. Internode control. A must for lush baskets. Pinching is a given, either manually or chemically. Do it early enough so that new growth and branching has a chance to develop to bloom WHEN you need them. Know your marketing windows.

I also use the same "basic" pattern of placing the cuttings BUT the number of cuttings per basket in part depends on the number of baskets i need and the number of cuttings available for saticking....