New Dawn is not well behaved and is armed with vicious thorns. I have her and I'm happy to deal with her for the moment, but would not have chosen her if I had been more knowledgable at the time.

Climbing roses are generally very thorny, they come with the territory. They need their thorns to "climb." Since they really don't climb, but with their gangly, over sized canes they reach out and grab something holding with their thorns. Thorns take the place of tendrils, twining stems, or hold fast roots. Of course, we come along and tie climbing roses up to some sort of support, but left to their own devices many a climber has nearly overwhelmed a tree it was planted by, merely by its own devices, thorns.

Characteristics of repeat blooming climbers are:

1. Luxuriant first flush followed by a skimpy repeat. The bigger the climber, the more prone to be skimpy repeating. Shorter climbing roses, those which produce shorter canes repeat more dependably. Shorter climbers will probably not work on your front porch since its gutter is about ?9? feet from the ground (in time you may consider a rail around your porch for safety).

2. Take more years to mature than any other roses.

3. Generally are more winter hardy, disease and insect resistant, and vigorous than other roses.

You have a beautiful, charming home...a doll's house by any standard. A little imagination and time will have your home and garden, the one people out for a ride, must come down your street to pass by and admire.

Here are my recommendations...research them thoroughly.

1. New Dawn...Bashfully abundant first flush followed by stingy repeat. The individual flower has a lovely form. Almost a cast iron rose regarding disease and insect problems. This rose is held in great regard world wide and rightfully so. Alas, no or little fragrance on 2 1/2" very double flowers in clusters. A good New Dawn in full bloom will almost obliterate its foliage from view by its lavish bloom. You will probably never have to spray this rose. (Never say never!)

2. William Baffin...Another work horse climber. Lavish first flush, stingy repeat. It has large, almost 4" double but flat when open, hot pink blooms in clusters with little or no fragrance. Just about as dependable as New Dawn. Can get even bigger, but both New Dawn and William Baffin are easy to control if kept after with a yearly pruning.

3. Darlow's Enigma...1 1/2" single snow white blooms in clusters...first lavish bloom followed by a better than average repeat for a climber. Flowers are extremely fragrant. Grows like its greatest joy in life is to get bigger. Just about equal to the earlier two climbers in hardiness, disease and insect resistance.

4. Jeanne Lajoie...climbing miniature rose. Only the flowers, very full, in clusters, 1 1/2" across, and foliage are miniature. The canes can get 12-14 feet long very easily. This rose can cover a work shed in no time. It does have some black spot issues, and can get spider mites, so I would only plant Jeanne Lajoie if its beauty overwhelmed me and I had to have it, knowing some spraying will probably be needed.

Last but not least (after this climber there is a whole sea of climbers that may work, the above climbers WILL work).

5. Westerland Large, double orange/apricot blend double, open, very fragrant blooms in clusters of no more than 7 or so. This is the only large flowered climber I recommend and it is fragrant too, but it may not fill out at the top of the space provided for it on your porch.

You need to determine how you will fasten the canes to your porch. I have an idea that will work and is not only very inexpensive but almost invisible.

I used to be in the horticulture business...

Here is a method for the perfect lawn, lawn service companies will ring your door bell wanting to know who cares for your lawn:

Mow frequently, every time more than an inch needs to come off the top. This means about every 5 days in Spring. Keep mower set at 3" all year long, never deviate from this setting. Keep mower blades as sharp as a surgeon's scalpel. Use only a mulching mower set on mulch at all times. Grass is never bagged but returned to the soil immediately when cut.

You don't mow when you feel like it, but when the lawn needs it. During a hot dry summer, you may not mow for two weeks or more.

Improve your lawn grasses now and again, every 3 years minimum. Do this by scalping the lawn in early spring. Mow down to 1/2" to 1". Exposed soil here and there is good. Rake up the cut stuff this time, compost or discard. Over seed with a blend of about 6 different varieties of improved modern perennial rye grasses for full sun locations, and add some improved modern tall fescues for shady lawns. No blue grass seed what so ever. Apply seed, water it in, and watch it germinate in less than a week, abut 5 days. Mow first time
when grass is just over 3" tall. New and old grass will grow together and blend. Old grass may die out (choked by new,more vigorous grass...on a plant by plant basis..not in patches) if it is not as tough as newly seeded grass, so the most vigorous grass plants emerge as winners, making for the easiest to maintain lawn. If the old grass is the victor, so be it.

Soil test every three years to determine pH. Apply lime only as needed. If its application is not indicated, do not apply it. Lime-ing a lawn in Spring is often a waste of time and money. Many landscapers do it routinely because the homeowner expects it.

Fertilize with milorganite three times a year. Follow application rates on bag. One in early spring, March. Second in early June, and third in late September.

MiIlorganite is very safe for people and pets, and children. it does not require to be watered in. It does not burn. Children and pest can play on it right after it is applied.

The modern perennial rye replaces blue grass in lawns. Blue grass is a water hog, is disease prone, not tough for foot traffic, and cannot stay growing when temps go into the mid seventy's, going dormant and turning yellow, then brown. These new ryes are bred to look like blue grasses, but stay green all summer, take a beating, and require less water. Perennial rye does not grow at its best in shade so some tall fescue is always added for shady spots.

A lawn so grown and managed will become weed free in time. Weeds cannot grow in a thick lawn.

Hope I have been of help to you.

To open your climber options further, consider roses which either don't repeat at all, or have "stingy rebloom." You can find some that are thornless and are easier to work with. The old thornless standby 'Zephrine Drouhin' (http://www.helpmefind.com/gardening/l.php?l=2.2572) comes to mind. Many who write about it here say it doesn't repeat for its first few years as its putting on growth (and for some, it doesn't repeat much or at all even then).

Another thornless option could be the old Hybrid Perpetual 'Reine des Violettes' (http://www.helpmefind.com/rose/l.php?l=2.5179) which will grow long canes that may be pillared around your posts.

When the rose reaches the size you desire and has been trained accordingly, plant a type 2 or 3 clematis near its base. The clematis will use the rose as its trellis, and offer blooms when the rose is finished.

If you choose a type 2, there will be some overlap during the clematis' first bloom cycle, then a lull during the peak of summer, followed by a rebloom of the clematis in late summer. The type 2 clematis won't need much (if any) pruning.

If you choose a type 3, the clematis will start blooming after the rose and continue for most of the summer. The type 3 clematis will bloom only on new wood, so would need to be pruned back to about a foot or two in height every spring. While it will offer blooms most of the summer, you might not want to deal with pruning and removing dead growth from within the rose every year, so each has its pros and cons.

:-)

~Christopher

Christopher,

Thank you for your post! I am attempting climbers for the first time myself this year, just like the OP, and that is a helpful, succinct, easy to follow post that addresses several issues I am worried about.

So thank you!
-Avia

thank you for the insights and advice!! :)

If you are looking for a good reblooming, disease-resistant, lovely pink climber, I've been pushing one I just recently discovered--Lady Ashe from Chamblees Nursery. See the link below.

Unfortunately for me, I've used up all the open space in my yard, so there's nowhere I can put another climber, but if I had an open spot, I'd order this one immediately!

Eden climber is gorgeous but not great on rebloom, and Lady Ashe is probably better on disease-resistance.

If you think a light yellow would look better on your house, then I would recommend David Austin's The Pilgrim (or maybe Teasing Georgia). My Pilgrim is only a year old so I can't say a lot about it, but it has been very good for a first-year rose (lovely blooms, disease-resistant) and I picked it because it received so many good comments on this forum. But if The Pilgrim isn't quite tall enough, Teasing Georgia is often praised on this forum also. Teasing Georgia.

I don't know anything about Generous Gardner, but the description looks first-rate--I'd try it if I had room for more climbers.

You need to decide if you want a climber in the 8-12 ft range (the ones I suggested are in that range) or more in the 15-20 ft range. Remember that when you wrap a climber around a post (and you will need some way to secure the windings), it won't go up quite so high as you might have expected.

Good luck in your search--sometimes half the fun of owning roses!

Kate

Here is a link that might be useful: Lady Ashe at Chamblees

By the way, if that were my porch, I'd consider adding another supporting post roughly in the center--or so it and the post on the right frame the door in roughly equal distances. I think the balance would be better--and that gives you another place to grow a climber--

Just a thought. : )

Kate

You have a charming home and roses would definitely add to it's beauty. But you do want to be careful. Really big climbing roses can be very heavy and could cause damage to your home. If you plant them provide them with their own support so the house doesn't take the weight. You will also need to do upkeep on the porch, painting and such, so having the roses directly on those posts may not be a good idea. I have trellises that can be laid down when we need to make repairs or paint.

Good point about providing support. Wouldn't want the whole roof to come down and and smush us one day :) Is there an online source where people get larger ones? We went to the Home Depot yesterday and were kind of underwhelmed. We also stopped by one of the independent nurseries but they really didn't have anything out yet. Just seed packets for annuals and veggies.

I was disappointed but then when it snowed 2 inches today I understood why they're probably holding off :(

I agree both about adding a railing for safety and maybe a 3rd support post to create more visual balance (and more room to grow roses). I kind of want to rip the whole porch down and custom build something to my liking!!! The bricks on the porch are painted so... red, I just don't like it. My husband believes I am bats since we just bought the house!!!

And by larger "ones" I mean larger trellises..

Maggie,

Pardon my lateness on this response. Have you already got your roses selected and planted? e-me back. I'm taking cuttings from my Climbing Pinkie which will work for you. Very limber canes that you can train around a post very easily. No thorns. It might not be all enough for you. But, I suspect your selection was made and already planted. I'm going to order a PINK Don Juan, Cl - you need to read up on it.

My greenhouse mentor when I finished my MG class answered my question: What climber do I plant on my arbor?: "DON JUAN, Cl because the bloom size is large and fragrant... AND when it reaches it's 3rd year, it will STOP traffic." I didn't need to read any more than that. I bought them and got them planted. I got to smell the fragrance and see it bloom before the highway dept removed me. I've planted a couple more here.

Now, I'm getting ready to order a PINK one. Might I suggest that you look at the link below. They aren't photographers. So, pardon that picture. But, it says MORE fragrant. Count me in!

Zephrine Droughin is a good one. And Chamblee's has been suggested before.

I'm getting ready to order my PDJ. If you'll write me back by email, I have another suggestion for the front of your house. Sends pics if you have some.

Xtal

Here is a link that might be useful: Chamblee's

Maggie,

Pardon my lateness on this response. Have you already got your roses selected and planted? e-me back. I'm taking cuttings from my Climbing Pinkie which will work for you. Very limber canes that you can train around a post very easily. No thorns. It might not be all enough for you. But, I suspect your selection was made and already planted. I'm going to order a PINK Don Juan, Cl - you need to read up on it.

My greenhouse mentor when I finished my MG class answered my question: What climber do I plant on my arbor?: "DON JUAN, Cl because the bloom size is large and fragrant... AND when it reaches it's 3rd year, it will STOP traffic." I didn't need to read any more than that. I bought them and got them planted. I got to smell the fragrance and see it bloom before the highway dept removed me. I've planted a couple more here.

Now, I'm getting ready to order a PINK one. Might I suggest that you look at the link below. They aren't photographers. So, pardon that picture. But, it says MORE fragrant. Count me in!

Zephrine Droughin is a good one. And Chamblee's has been suggested before.

I'm getting ready to order my PDJ. If you'll write me back by email, I have another suggestion for the front of your house. Sends pics if you have some.

Xtal

Here is a link that might be useful: Chamblee's

You guys have a charming house Maggie. I think a climber on each side would look very beautiful. I think you shouldn't go for the big climbers, probably a shorter climber for easier maintenance and avoid future hassles. If not a climber, probably large rose shrubs in the flower beds would look beautiful too. Since your house have red bricks, I would go for a lighter rose to stand out. If you choose pink, then a lighter pink. Of your list, I have climbing Eden which I planted last spring. It has beautiful flowers for sure. Keep in mind that climbers (so I've read) starts slowly. It may be up to three years, before you will see the full potential. However, which direction is your front house facing? Does it get a lot of sunlight? Don't choose a very thorny rose since this is a high traffic area.

Thanks for the info Subk3 about New Dawn. I was thinking of planting it this coming summer. I may not want to if it is too thorny. I don't mind thorns but some roses just got way too many of them.

Don't let anyone talk you out of a beautiful climbing rose. Do make sure that you have good support for it as the last thing you would want is for it to come crashing down along with your front porch. Now, that being said, there are thornless climbing reblooming roses. Crested Sweetheart and Moore's Renee are two of them.

David Austin has Mortimer Sackler, a pink that can be a climbing rose which is also practically thornless. He also carries Compassion another pink climber. He does have a climbing Evelyn which is one of my favorite roses. I don't have the climbing variety and where I live it is hot, hot, hot in summer (over 105 every day for about 2 months) so her rebloom isn't great for me because of my heat. The scent is to die for, however. There is also Abe Darby. Expect any climbing rose to take some time to climb and come into its own. I would give it at least three years.

However, given the orange tint to your brick, you might want to go with a more salmon pink than a blue-ish pink. So, that being said, would you consider a yellow or white climber/rambling rose (I know, I know, I am a sucker for a pink rose too!). Either Malvern Hills or Snow Goose is continuously blooming and both are very pretty. I would think that they would stand up to your cold winters very well and would look beautiful on your house. As far as apricot colors, Crown Princess Margarita is one. Bi-colors would be Fighting Temeraire Climbing. Stripes--Fourth of July, Soaring Spirit, Shadow Dancer, Flamingo Dancer.

BTW, if you don't like the paint of the bricks on your porch, paint them! They do make a paint for that which won't peel off.

I'm over 1 1/2 yrs late in entering this conversation, so forgive me.

Before I'd consider working with your landscaping, I'd tie the house together. It's too disjointed. The top floor is reminiscent of a half timbered Old English Elizabethan home is Umber. The cedar shakes don't add anything when you consider the other elements. I wonder what might be under those shakes? The ground floor is more of a 1950's +/- brick home with windows that differ greatly in style from that of the 2nd floor is Terra Cotta) And the concrete porch is Redwood in color.

I think you'll be happier in the long run if you can work on unifying the appearance of the house. Then consider adding your climbing rose on each post.

I'd keep the bricks, don't paint them. That leads to forever painting them. So, use that as one of your primary colors. It will take a great mind that what I have as to how to tie in the two floors. But, if you can bring some of that Terra Cotta brick color up, then maybe it would might help OR bring some Umber down to your bricks. Shutters can be unifying, but consider that considerably later. You could even make them yourselves consider the Old English look you have to work with.

Then paint the front on the porch. Maybe the terra cotta color with umber lines. Others could suggest that one better than me.

I'd put a climbing rose on both porch posts. The rose that I'd suggest might not grow there. I called Chamblee's for my own questions regarding another climber. Lady Ashe is one that I would have selected, but the color doesn't work here. The peach accent would blend nicely with the terra cotta colored brick and very fragrant.

Then I'd plant an evergreen shrub that could help fill in both those side of the steps as there are 2 blanks areas that could handle a small shrub nicely.

I can see other areas where you could edge your sidewalk in front with some similar terra cotta colored bricks that you could probably get off Craigslist very reasonably.

There are some other things that can be done, but I just hope that I haven't alienated you by now. So, take what you can and with a breath of kindness blow the rest away.

I hope you are able to live there for years and years. You got a good place to start.

Xtal

Here is a link that might be useful: Lady Ashe