I would suggest mixing in at least an equal volume of dry brown leaves. This will cut down on any potential stank, and provide a carbon source for the microbes (thus speeding up the process).

Composting on concrete or cement means no microbes for decomposition all you get is rotten stuff. Also, all that rotting matter might leave a big dark stain.
Once the pile is moved to dirt the soil microbes can move in & do their job.

"Composting on concrete or cement means no microbes for decomposition "

ummm...no. The microbes are always present on the materials.

Lloyd

Microbes may be present on concrete but composting on soil ensures a variety & you want psycrophiles, mesophiles & thermophiles to be able to do their job. Besides on soil you get not only compost but a nice nutrient rich spot from the liquid that leaches out & no stain on the concrete.

I compost in tumblers (no contact with soil), it works just fine.

Lloyd

Does an activator have to be added periodically?

Nope.

Lloyd

The most important things are to get that off the concrete so the brown leachate that will inevitably seep out of the bottom does not stain the concrete and so that a greater variety of microbes can come up from the soil. AND to get some browns mixed in. That pile is out of balance, way too high in moisture and nitrogen, and when it thaws it's going to smell.

I agree with everything tox stated except the microbe/soil part.

Lloyd

Does she plan to buy the worms? Or does she expect them to migrate across or through the concrete?

Could she add shredded paper to help with the balance and the smell?

Lloyd, I admit I have no data to prove my implication that there is a greater variety of microbes in soil than what comes in on the veggie scraps. I just thought it sounded good. :-]

I had the same question about the worms, how will they get there? Also does she realize that worms contribute to composting if they are there, but compost happens with or without them?

Sorry tox. I wasn't implying that there is not a greater variety of microbes in soil. I happen to agree with you that there likely is a greater variety in soil.

What I don't believe is that microbes are as mobile as people think. They move well in water but I don't think they will climb out of the ground and into a pile. Tumblers work without contact with the ground ergo it is not required. The microbes are already on most products and given the right growth parameters they do very well all on their own.

Lloyd

I'd put some shredded paper, leaves, or cardboard in with every bucket of kitchen waste that is added to the cold container. When it thaws in the spring, the browns will really help give carbon energy to all the organisms and help the composting process. Easier to add browns now as you go along than trying to mix it in the block of frozen kitchen scraps in the spring. Mold is okay in compost, but too heavy nitrogen/green ratio and you will get slime/mucky/odor with the thaw. Of course that can be corrected later with adding browns, but adding browns through the winter will help prevent that.

Unless one is vermicomposting worms are not a significant part of the process.

Here is a link that might be useful: Composting Tutorial

If you're composting correctly worms would not enjoy anything but the very outer layer of your pile. They generally don't enjoy hanging around 100-150F temperatures. Most worms don't like it above 80-85F soil temperature.

Quick composting relies on a balance of "browns and greens" to regulate it's own chemical reactions...along with microbes, moisture, and oxygen.

This post was edited by nc-crn on Tue, Jan 28, 14 at 5:29

'If you're composting correctly....'

I think maybe that should be 'if you're hot composting correctly'. If you cold compost you may well have worms and they will work in the team of organisms which break down the materials into compost.

Yes, sheet/lasagne/mulch/cold composting can (and usually does) have a worm component because of the lack of heat and it being a part of the process breaking down and mixing the material in many areas.

I should have used better wordage on that. I was writing pertaining to OP's issue...still, I should have used better wording on the statement.

Because of the hard pan 12" under my clay soil, when I amend and till my garden every fall and spring I very seldom see any worms and the vegetation decays very quickly (4-5 months). My garden is my compost bin I guess.

The OP is in the wind it seems. I would put a 6 inch layer of browns, and add all the peels, etc until spring. In spring I would try to make a 4X4 mound or close and turn regularly and keep moist. Otherwise do the worm thing indoors over winter.