I question how much pruning off all the fruit would help. But I won't want too big a crop. What I do on three potted plants in my greenhouse is two fold. First I prune out some of the overly thick small branches. Then on the remaining branches I thin off some of the fruit. I allow the plants to flower and set until I think there is enough fruit already set. Then I remove all the flower clusters that follow. The clusters are easy to see and remove just before and during bloom. On three or four plants this isn't too much work. Your plants are probably smaller than mine. Keeping half a crop this yr might cost you a little crop next yr but it would be worth it to me. My only caution outdoors would be the chance of a late frost taking those early fruit right after you remove the late fruit. But you could reverse it and start taking off some of the early bloom and save the late. And speaking of frost, if you remove all the crop this yr, frost or something might take all of next yrs crop. Get some now while you can...that's my vote!! Perhaps I should point out that my bushes seem to overset. Yours might not, esp the first yr. On mine I think thinning gives larger sweeter fruit. The Fruitnut

I was hoping to see a response from someone more experienced than I am, but since no one has answered yet... I have grown blueberries with great success in Montgomery County MD. My guess is that if the best sun is close to the house you should go with that. I have blueberries planted in a bed with strawberries around them, since both love acid soil. I amended the soil (a lot) with peat and compost, and every couple of years acidify it again. But I think that if you have any luck at all, you will want to have at least 3-4 plants of different varieties (ripening at slightly different times). They're wonderful... easiest thing I grow.

Hello nursejolly, So these are going in the ground?What's the native soil like,the composition and pH?Does it drain well? If it's high pH like a lot of California spots,it may be better to grow them in containers,something like they're already in,maybe just a little bigger,like five to ten gallon.That way there isn't as much of a battle to keep the pH favorable. With container grown Blueberries,I never use native soil,just Pine or Fir bark mulch,peat moss and some Perlite if it's available.60-70% bark mulch and the rest peat. I've never used Azalea soil.Is it like potting soil,kind of thin like dirt?If so and they're grown in pots,I'd probably not use it,as the mix needs to be fast draining and porous. I'd also keep the fruit because they are of fairly good size. I also grow them in the ground and use about the same components as above,minus the Perlite.I suppose the Azalea soil could be used in the ground situation. It's also a good idea to check the pH of your irrigation water,as that can also affect pH. Brady

Before it started "dying" i didn't use any pesticide, but once I saw it and saw the spiders we sprayed with Ortho Home Defense 3 in 1 insect killer. We only sprayed once. I don't think the blueberry is dead though... As for the Iron deficiency , I bought Miracle Grow for acid loving plants. Will try that tomorrow and see if it heals! I checked the pH in the soil and it was actually 7. So hopefully it is just iron deficiency. The roots are in good shape :)