Frank, could be stem blight. NC State has a good factsheet on it. Prune off infected branches well below the infection before it kills the host plant and/or the spores spread to other plants. Elaine, sounds like mummy berry. Google Rutgers and mummy berry for a list of preventative measures. I plan on applying 1" of new mulch in the winter and spraying some copper and serenade on my infected plants in the spring.

Drew, IâÂÂve read your take on AlâÂÂs advice on potting mix hydraulics quite a few times, and I am left to wonder if you have really digested what Al has said. I for one have seen Al say over and over that there is no âÂÂone size fits allâ as you suggest he advocates. He has posted over and over that what he is presenting is an attempt to explain the principles of potting mix hydraulics so that one can understand and chose for themselves how to make a proper mix for their circumstance. He then goes on to say âÂÂthis is what works for meâÂÂ, but in no way advocates âÂÂone size fits allâ in relation to mechanical properties. In relation to fertilization, it does lean more towards âÂÂone size fits allâÂÂ. While I havenâÂÂt vouched his claims to the literature he cites, he does present such ratios of NPK based on what seems to be a sound basis. I still wouldnâÂÂt characterize it as âÂÂone size fits allâÂÂ. While it is a commonly held misbelief that sand is used to improve drainage, the opposite is actually true when used in conjunction with other dissimilar sized particles. ItâÂÂs like the pine needles and oak leaves acidifying soil. Such a wifeâÂÂs tale that has been told so many times, it is almost gospel, but it is not true. Just because the forest floor under oaks and pine trees is acidic does not mean those products are adequate to lower pH when applied as a mulch. Just because sand drains well does not mean that adding it to other media creates drainage. The opposite is true when the sand is mixed with other particle sizes. It slows down passage of water, allowing for more retention, and holds water in the micropores between the sand and the other media products. This is clearly quantified in peer reviewed studies measuring the retention and drainage of various mixes. It reminds me of people in UT who often repeat that sand should be added to our clay soils to improve drainage. Wrong! What they actually end up doing is making low grade cement by the addition of sand! Just because it seems logical, and is oft repeated, does not mean it is true. Regarding FruitnutâÂÂs âÂÂcompostâÂÂ. I have raised many thousands of rodents. I have composted more cubic yards of the wastes than I would ever care to count. I used to commercially raise rodents. Even when thoroughly hot composted a couple times, the result is nothing like peat or other traditional potting mixes or compost. It is far more like composted pine bark fines. It is a good draining product. Nothing like the maverick potting mix linked to.

If the tips of the leaves are turning brown, it's not getting enough water. Forget using a moisture meter, they are useless. Especially when the temps rise, drench your containers when watering, they will thank you. I keep my blueberries very wet in the high temps, if not my leaf tips will start dying also. Charleslou23 is right about the ph. In order to get your ph down is not that easy. I use elemental sulfur to lower my ph, which buffers my container medium to keep the ph stable. It takes a few moths for it to work or you can crush the granules to get faster results. Be careful when crushing the sulfur, avoid when windy, wear gloves and wear a dust mask to be safe.

What you are suggesting I have tried on other single stem plants, but was not successful. If it were possible to split the stem, or trunk down through the roots so each half would have some of the crown AND some roots you might do it, but I don't think it is possible with the plants you have. I also do not think any dressing or sealing material would help. Al