I'll give you my thoughts, for what they're worth: I think pesticide-fertilizer combos are a bad idea. If you want to apply a fungicide, buy one and spray it on the leaves. If you want to apply an insecticide, buy one and spray it just when needed.

Manures are good for your soil but are actually very low in the NPK elements. You might get better flower production with regular application of a good organic fertilizer, such as a cup of alfalfa meal per rose per month, or a single application of a timed-release fertilizer such as Osmocote.

Ditto what Mike said.

What problem are you trying to solve by using the systemic product?

The manure is a wonderful soil conditioiner but won't replace fertilizer. LIke the other guys are saying, you need both. I get good results with two applications of alfalfa and one of Osmocote. The Osmocote being time-release can go on with the alfalfa.For more dramatic results you can use a cup of bloodmeal per bush, but critters may dig around in the rootzones if you're near any critter habitat.

Manure supplies organic matter and micronutrients you won't get from fertilizers. But, as said above, not much in the way of nitrogen, which is what you need the most of.

I also dislike the fertilizer/fungicide/insecticide combinations. Application timing is different for each product for one thing. At least everywhere I've gardened, you need fungicides on one schedule, fertilizer on another, and inseccticides on no schedule at all, but on an as-needed basis. Some years I apply no insecticides at all.

You won't burn your roses by adding the combo in addition to the steer manure. It's nitrogen that burns plant roots, and there's little nitrogen in steer manure. It's just not the way I'd go. I'd add the manure, although I use chicken manure (more nitrogen, less salt), and then I'd use an all-round, all purpose fertilizer to add the nitrogen. I add organic fertilizers in winter, as they take time to be processed by soil microbes, and supplement with nitrogen fertilizers in late spring.

Thank you so much for all your advice. I believe I will try the Osmocote.

As to the pesticide/fungicide - I live in Southern California. I'm already dealing with aphids and whiteflies. The whiteflies here are just terrible and they spread. Thrips are bad too, especially in the early season when it's still raining and warm.

Also blackspot and mildew. Again, mildew is bad in the early months because of the moisture. Blackspot tends to show up later when it's drier.

I was thinking that the systemic fertilizer with both fungicide and pesticide would be more preventative than constant spraying?

I'm not going to argue with the above but I rarely use any fertilizer at all any more. Just lots of compost. There are various types of manures also. "Green manure" is something like clover, alfalfa, or another crop that contains lots of nitrogen. If your manure is actually animal crap, the breakdown value is going to depend on what the animal ate and in such a case, you may not have adequate nitrogen. But if you have grass clippings or something of that nature, you may still get adequate NPK.

That doesn't mean that fertilizer is useless, just that I'm increasingly disinclined to do anything in the garden other than prune and weed. For the same reason, if a rose needs spraying, I usually throw it out and buy something that doesn't need it. If it turns out to be the wrong size, I give it to someone who can handle it. Life is so much easier that way.

I don't uses pesticides anymore. They are toxic to pets and disturb the natural cycle of good insects like bees and lady bugs and animals like lizards and birds. If the manure is composted well ,there are no flies. Fresh manure can burn roses.

Barbara, I have never used bloodmeal on anything but pansies. How does it work on roses and what results occur? In early spring I use alfalfa pellets, cottonseed meal, epsom salts and Mills Magic Rose Mix.
Judith

Blood meal is a high-nitrogen fertilizer that releases some fast N as well as slow N. It is one organic fertilizer that needs to be applied with the same care as manufactured fertilizer because excessive N can damage plants. It might be useful especially in early spring when available N can be low in the cold soils.