Canker? Winter damage? Pruning?

16 years ago

Hi, I'm on the border of zone 5 and 6 in mid- Missouri, near Kansas City.

I've only had roses for the past 3 years. I am confused about canker vs. winter die back. How do you tell the difference? Also, if I prune down to where the inside of the canes are healthy looking, is that enough to stop canker...and spray besides? Last spring I lost more than half of my roses. I guess due to the stupid Easter Freeze. All of them seemed to have canker, even the survivors. I'm not sure. Now, the ones I planted last summer and fall look like they have canker. I didn't winter protect too well. It seems that there's black and dark splotches on the base of most of the plants.

Am I doomed???

THANKS!

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Comments (7)

dan_keil_cr Keil
16 years ago
What you have is just winter damage. Even where you live roses still need to be covered. My plants got froze back to the mulch line. But under the mulch the canes are green. Start cutting back until you see creamy white wood. If the bud union wasn't froze you will get new growth from the bud union. After you prune them feed them and start your spray program. You'll be fine.
Prettypetals_GA_7-8
16 years ago
Can you tell me what canker looks like? On another thread someone mentioned my roses might get canker since I covered them with soil to prevent the canes from dieing. Now I would like to know what it looks like. Judy
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Work it is but your numbers are small so just peck away at it so it's not that much work. I normally protect about 400 to 500 roses in a en mass method that varies from my usual peat moss covering and burlap to last years cheap frost blankets. Fall and spring covering, uncovering and cleanup sessions combined are about 10 to 15 full days of work. I use pseudo rose cones (old large nursery pots) for some of my small OGRS (gallicas and young Damasks) and it cuts down on cane death but not always. When I want to get cane length I find bending and pegging down the flexible caned roses in fall and then burying works to a degree. On the whole more length is saved than just mounding - but you get canker loss and it is more work in the fall being impaled on thorns. This does not work for saving fall Hybrid Tea cane length as nearly all of them have canes too stiff to bend down. The basic tenant is if you want cane length saved by the method the more you will save the closer the out of zone rose is to your zone. In other words I get good cane survival for zone 4 and 5 roses but beyond that it is tremendously iffy. For example I have made Marechael Niel survive for 3 winter now, but no cane survival, it just comes back but to 1/10 the normal 3 year height of the rose. Truth be known being in zone 5 should allow you to have reasonable success with a lot of the old classical European OGRs with minimal protection if you have lots of snow.
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diane_nj 6b/7a
16 years ago
Judy, bookmark this link: Baldo Villegas' Bugs and Roses Home Page. Baldo collects this kind of info (he really does!).

Baldo has a few photos of canker on his site.
flora_in_mo
Original Author
16 years ago
Thanks Dan, but I've read in my rose books not to fertilize until after they bloom. I read that I should use organic materials now...like fish emulsion and manure, not fertilizer.
What to do? What kind of fertilizer do you use immediately after pruning?
Thanks for your time.
Flora
athenainwi
16 years ago
You need to prune below the canker and cut it out. I didn't know that last year and lost two roses to canker. Canker looks like dark areas on the cane, and it spreads and gets bigger if you don't do anything about it. The pictures on Baldo's site are very good. It can hurt to prune out otherwise good cane but you might lose the whole rose if you don't. There might be good cane above the canker, but you have to prune further down to get rid of the canker or it will spread and kill the rose.

I actually didn't do any winter protection this year to reduce the amount of canker since canker is worse when the canes are kept damp. I think it worked, but I haven't pruned yet so I can't say for sure.
Terry Crawford
16 years ago
Flora - I live close by Dan in Central Illinois, snd here's what I do for my fertilizing program.

I personally like Rose Tone, which is a granular fertilizer. Some folks use Mills Magic; Miracle Gro; etc. You might do a search and read the different threads about fertilizers. It's simply a matter of personal preference.
It takes a lot of energy and food for roses to bloom, so I always start fertilizing May 1. Roses are heavy feeders and need lots of energy to produce those beautiful blooms we love. I quit feeding September 1, which gives the roses a chance to harden any new growth before winter. I fertilize monthly, which is according to the Rose Tone directions.

Newly-planted rose bands get only LIQUID ROSE FERTILIZER at 1/2 strength for the first year so it doesn't burn their roots. Next year after they have had a chance to establish a healthy root system, they will graduate to Rose Tone fertilizer.

I too winter protect with mulch. I checked my roses last week, and they were green under the mulch but the top canes were black. When I prune in a couple of weeks and uncover all the way, I'll prune until I find the white pith.

And yes, do cut off below the cane if you find canker.
Hope this info helps.
-terry
dan_keil_cr Keil
16 years ago
Flora,
For established plants you can use chemical fertilizers like 10-10-10 or 12-12-12. Some people use timed release fertilizers like Oscomote. Then some use liquids or water solubles like Miracle Gro or Rapid Gro. I use what ever I find on sale. Remember it takes soil bacteria to break that food down to make it available to the plant.
After the big Easter freeze, I cut back and sprayed Miracle Gro for lawns whick is nitrogen. Well I had peak bloom on Memorial Day, which is early for our area.
Or some people prefer organic fertilizer like Mills or Rose Tone.
I think the chemical fertilizers,like the liquids and water solubles, work faster than the organics, plus you can spray those fertilizers right on the leaves. Mills also has a liquid that can be sprayed.

What I'm saying is there are many kinds of fertilizers that can be used. So if you are using brand x fertilizer, and it's working for you, keep using it. You will not harm an established rosebush unless you decide, If one cup is good,two must be better. Read the label and follow the directions. Don't forget to water well before you apply it and water it in well.

Canker? Winter damage? Pruning?

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dan_keil_cr Keil

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