Since you've only had it a week, I don't believe you're responsible for any issues. It is still suffering from its poor treatment in the shop. I have lived a number of places where the municipal water source has neither fluoride or chlorine. Deep ground water needn't be chlorinated. In any case, I've also had the exact same plant where the water was floridated and chlorinated, and apart from being infuriatingly slow-growing, it never developed any problems. Slow-growing plants are often also slow-reacting plants because all the biological processes are slowed down. If it were my plant, I'd gently wash away all the soil and nasties left on the roots from the store. I'd check the bare roots for health, and I'd remove the ones that weren't white, and I would spread out the remaining roots in a nice pot of brand new, healthy soil, amended with at least 50% perlite, pumice, or something to reduce water storage, or I'd plant it in gritty mix. Water sparingly, place in bright light, and keep out of any direct sun for a couple of months to allow it to recover from its previous abuse. This particular Draceana, in my experience, is very slow, so it might take a while to come around, but I don't think my treatment would make it worse. It think it would only get worse if you find there aren't enough healthy roots to feed the existing foliage. Just my opinion.

mark replied to my email.. instead of here ... i dont see why i cant share it ... he said: Thank you. It's been in the ground a long time (6-8 years) so I don't think it's rootbound. I showed a branch to my garden shop this morning and their guess was that it was the winter cold snaps (we had lots of days going from 70 to 25). I'm not sure how else to diagnose it. I'll do a little pruning to get rid of yellow leaves and air out the crowded center. Once a month, the gardens here have a master gardener clinic so I'll go there next time it's open. Thanks for your advice. ===>>> mark.. i would not go pruning.. until i see where buds break .. if its just cosmetic to the leaves.. then i dont see why you need to go lopping off branch pieces ... the leaves will fall off themselves, if you have patience ... but why mangle the plant otherwise ... often a frost will only affect the leaves.. but not the buds with this years growth... that usually happens during a freeze ... as compared to a frost ... as i tell peeps.. you can always cut it off later.. but you cant staple/tape them back on .... thinning the interior should not be related to this issue ... if you want/need to do it otherwise.. fine.. but it isnt part of this ... you are welcome .... ken ps: it is already stressed due to the leaf loss ... severe pruning of the good leaves.. due to interior thinning.. may simply be removing more leaves.. that it needs to get over the stress created by the frost ...

All hollies lose leaves in the spring however you might want to give them a shot of iron. Here is a link that might be useful: Propagating Perennials

I don't think lack of nutrients will cause this problem with dwarf burfords. They don't seem particularly draught tolerent in full sun. I've lost several, due to inadequate watering, and the dying process started with yellowing of leaves. I would suspect root damage caused by last summer's draught.