Try unplugging and replugging in the connector for it a couple of times. Also check the end of the connector where is plugs into the ice maker. Are there actually ice cubes in the ice maker itself, (IE, not the tray)? If so, try removing the ice, let it refill and see if it drops the ice. The ice maker in my Jenn-air fridge died after about 5 years. It uses a heater to heat the cubes slightly, just before it drops the cubes, if the heater is burned out, (mine was), it can't drop the cubes as the motor that runs the gizmo that actually removes the cubes is not strong enough to remove them unless they are "slightly softened" by that heater. I just replaced the whole ice maker, it was about $135 on the Jenn-air website, also I did see some on Ebay for about $90, but decided best to spend the extra money to be sure I got the correct one and a good one. Good luck with yours! Gary

You act fast, yo. The good news is that I do not see anything in the photo that will make me suspect the roots were damaged by the cold. You did not answer my questions though---that will give me an idea of whether you should be expecting cellular breakdown in the next few days or the wilted branches are the end of it. Did it actually experience frost? Or just cold? If so, how cold? For how long? The next thing to do is to give that thing another bath--remove all the old soil as much as possible. Then examine each of the branches that seemed damaged and trace the damage up to where it ends closest to the trunk. Then mark a spot about half an inch from that. That's where you will cut. This kind of damage may recover but I have personally never seen or risked it. I think it is prudent to remove all the damaged plant parts before they start decomposing. You're essentially pruning the plant. If you have an idea how you want it to look later on, you can prune it that way too, even if it means removing a lot of healthy tissue. Then, let the whole plant dry for a couple of days indoors, out of the sun. You can not put this plant outside anymore, until it shows new healthy growth and outdoor temperatures have risen back to 20C at night. If you already have bonsai plants, then you know how water moves around in containers. The same rules apply to adeniums---you need fast drainage and some water retention. In summer, they are as thirsty as tender tropicals. In winter, they should be treated like succulents unless you are able to provide summer temperatures for them. So, you can pot it up after it dries out for a couple of days---the easiest is half-and-half potting soil and perlite. I don't personally like this substrate but it will do in a pinch.If you have other potting materials like bark or pumice, use those instead and add as little soil as you feel comfortable with. I strongly recommend putting it in an unglazed pot. If you are up to it, add more holes to the pot. If not, one of those nursery pots with multiple drainage holes will be perfect. Worry about presentation later, when it recovers. Finally, while this plant is recovering, what it will need most is heat. It needs to be warm more than it needs to be lit. This means do not put it near a glass window. Put it on top of a radiator with a terracota water tray underneath.Or use a heat mat if you have it. If you have a sunny window that gets hot during the day, that will work but you can NOT leave it there at night when that glass gets cold. I hope the plant recovers. Pagan

Susanne, without a surfactant your foliar spray just sat on the leaf surface as drops. Using a surfactant highly reduces the surface tension of the spray, and causes the spray to form a complete film over the entire leaf surface (both top and bottom), thus GREATLY increasing the spray's efficiency. In my humble opinion red algea is worthless. Lastly, do you actually know what was the deficiency type that the tree was suffering under? Spraying this chemical and that chemical in the hopes that perhaps one of them will correct the deficiency can cause many additional problems. You can use any of the non-ionic surfactants, I always use TW-20 (aslo known as Tween-20.

I have used cinnamon extensively, and although I can’t say anything either way on the rooting issue, it works very well as a fungicide. I had to aggressively cut back a couple bulbs that had red blotch starting to get into their necks. I spread a layer of cinnamon on all exposed cut tissue, and they survived and are doing well now. I use the cheap stuff from Walmart. I had the same thing happen to me, Anja. I unfortunately lost the bulb. And of course, it was a rare one that I may not be able to replace! I’d do what Patel suggested - but don’t put it inside a bag where it will stay wet, because most likely the rot will continue if it is not allowed to dry out. I think it can still be saved at this point though, don’t give up!