I couldn't make out the picture for "early signs of toxicity", but I can tell you that my marigolds last year had spots and I was worried about it. I posted about the problem and I got tons of conflicting info. All I can say is that I still don't know what it was. The spots were perfectly spaced on the leaves and if I had not known better, I would have thought it was the normal design of the leaf. I kept them quarantined and they all grew up normally, produced normal flowers and did no harm to any plants I planted them next to. I am still curious as to what it is, but frankly as long as the plant remains healthy, I would assume it is harmless. Of course, if the plant changes colors, yellows, dies or gets stunted etc.....I'd trash them.

I think one of the biggest killers of palms (or any plant) is the act of rushing your palms inside the day of a big chill event. There needs to be an acclimation process to bringing plants inside. I have a covered patio, so for me it is a process of storing my palms under the canopy (out of the sun) for a short period of 4-7 days, getting them used to lower light levels. I then put them in the garage for a few days before I start to bring them inside. I have a basement room set up with flourescent light fixtures and grow lights. I set up a warm air humidifier and run it a few times a week. If I put a plant inside I make sure to mist it at least every 1-2 days. It does not take a lot of time, just a routine thing. Do not overmist your plants. I suspect your palm is suffering the shock effects of being brought inside, put in front of a window and suffering the drying effects of the sun coming through the glass, low humidity and no air movement. I'd certainly move that palm away from the window and mist it (don't over do it) and keep it in a bright area, just no direct sun for a while. put a bowl of water next to the plant to create humidity and hope for the best.

What cheeze said may sound harsh but it's definately the truth. My potted bhut is in standard Miracle Gro potting soil with a bit of bonemeal and fish emulsion. That's it. I water it when it goes dry. The rest are in the garden with plain garden soil and a little fertilizer and I may have used bonemeal upon transplanting. They're all prolific. Fact is, too much attention can be worse than neglecting the plant. Especially when you start throwing in chemicals without being positive of what the problem actually is. I've had quite a few pepper plants show purple stems, especially where they branch off near the top of the plant. I believe that's just from the sun. As far as the leaves go. They could be overwatered. Personally, I water when the plant starts showing stress.

I like that little glass plate! Would you believe I have one JUST LIKE IT! I don't know where it is right now or I'd grab a picture, LOL! Anyway. Not to go against the common wisdom here but I swear those little seedlings look UNDER watered to me. If you wait 'til the plants droop to water, they are already stressed. The point is to avoid stressing the plant. In future I would recommend against using that mix for seed starting - I believe I read it was compost, coir and sand. For one thing, never in my life have I ever bought a bag labeled "compost" that actually was. So whatever was in that bag - it almost certainly was NOT anything one would normally think of as compost. My seedling mix for decades was peat and medium grade vermiculite (I used coarse for potting, but medium for seeding). I can actually get medium grade vermiculite still, but I used to sift the fines out of coarse for my seeding needs and since I haven't been able to get the coarse any more, I've virtually stopped using any vermiculite whatsoever, just because I have no use other than seeding for the smaller grades of vermiculite. I may reconsider that. But here are some of the seeding mixes I typically use: 1:1 peat and vermiculite (medium is ok for seeding, but not potting) 1:1 peat and good quality bagged SOIL such as Miracle Grow (again, of limited use as anything other than a seeding mix or single season container mix) 1:1 peat and very fine pine fines - I'm concerned this may end up too moisture retentive but we'll see. 1:1 peat and Scott's Turf builder - this is very finely graded pine bark with a teensy bit of fertilizer - 1-1-1. I think this could be a good replacement for my old mix of peat-vermiculite. I don't know if you can get anything like it in Australia. I've also successfully seeded in any halfway decent bagged soilless potting mix. I do try to avoid coir because results with coir tend to be so variable. Also, for all the bad rap peat gets for being "hydrophobic", the few times I've worked with coir I've found it to be next to impossible to rewet if it dries out. If you went 4 days without watering that could be an issue. What I would do at this point in your position is get some seeding paks or small pots and "repot" those seedlings. Try just a couple at first and see how they do, but they look stressed enough to me that I don't see a lot to be gained by waiting any longer than you have to. BTW - purpling of LEAVES is not anything normal for pepper seedlings. I have never seen that. Maybe I read that wrong. What I HAVE seen is that the stems of seedlings will sometimes darken to a kind of dark burgundy or purplish colors. I tend to see that on seedlings that have gotten leggy. It fades after awhile. I have some basil seedlings right now where just ONE seedling got leggy because it sprouted before all the others, I had them in a south-facing...