Interesting you classify Zygo's as terrestrials. I don't know the first thing about them, and I know I've heard the potting mix suggestions say cym mix, but I've never really thought of them as terrestrials before given their fat roots and proclivity to rot.

I would have to say Coryanthes. Love them, they are just so unique! I just don't have the room for gigantic plants that have the requirement of needing to hang.

I'll also say Phal. bellina. Don't know why I keep killing them. but I do.

Also, Paphs in general. I like them, but they don't like me. I'll cop that it's probably inappropriate watering and inappropriate potting media. For the last decade I've always tried the same potting media everytime hoping it was just watering (medium-coarse grade bark with sphag mixed in). I just can't keep any one of them alive, from multifloral paphs to parvis to barbatas (maudiae types). I'm trying now with fine bark on them all to see what happens. Most are smaller seedlings of 6"LS, and a year in they do look better than others that have survived this long.

Oh, phrags too. Any phrag, they all have a meltdown after one year. Not sure why.

Chris

If I kill a plant again and again, why would I keep trying. there are so many different ones available. 3 strikes and they are out.

I bought my third Bulbo beccarii 1/2 year ago and it is not doing well. I bought it with 3 large leaves, it made a new one which wilted after reaching 1" in size. One of the large leaves is now slowly turning yellow. It is not yet a lost cause but it's in ICU. I have met numerous orchid luminaries in the last 6 month and made a point to ask each one if they have tried this plant. Several admitted that they have tried and failed.

The original seller tells me that some of her costumers do well, some do not. Another grower who sells them and also has large specimens, tells me that he looses 10% of newly arrived plants. I'll continue to do everything possible to get this plant to grow but if I loose it, this will be the last one, I'll never buy another one.

I'm on my 4th set of Dendrobium cuthbersonii and they are the exception to my self imposed rule. I lost the previous 3 but these are doing well. Hopefully I'll be able to say the same thing one year from now.

If some plants don't do well for you, try to give them the best possible conditions but if still unsuccessful, move on, only licensed Samuri can smash bricks with their heads.

Nick

Ian, GREAT idea for a thread!

Zygopetalum crinitum and Colax (Pabstia) jugosa present problems for me...probably the lower temps needed to keep 'em happy during the hottest months. I had ONE Z crinitum plant many years ago which was FANTASTIC! Even that one had its limits....

Any Lycaste skinneri and macrophylla species/varieties/hybrids present "issues" for me. They require "extra" attention.

I struggle to maintain small growing areas at a min temp of 60�F during winter. The rest go down to the low 50s and even into the upper 40s.

I don't bother with "warm" Cattleyas any longer. Forget Catasetums and many Vandaceous types.

There are SO many more....

I recognize what works well and what doesn't. Unforunately, "what doesn't" takes longer for me to determine :)

--Stitz--

1. Almost anything labeled as definitely warm growing. Summers they do fine, but the other 10 months of the year, I can't can't provide the right temps. They always end up croaking.

2. Almost anything over 10 inches high. Again, summer are fine since they're outside, but in winter my light setup just doesn't work for tall plants. Trying to rely on window light just doesn't cut it since winter sun is so weak and we have so many cloudy days.

If I stick with the really small plants I can provide almost any light level necessary from very high to very low. It's just a matter of moving the plants around a bit under the lights. As you might guess, Onc. Sharry Baby was the biggest mistake I ever made. She is long gone.

Kevin

My problem is on the other end from Kevin, I can't grow cool orchids. I have been gradually moving my collection toward the warm/hot side and my low temperature is in the upper 50s now.

Also off my list is orchids that need year-round moisture. I have some of those still but they will be phased out as they die or are traded or sold. I cut back watering in winter for my SUBTRIBE: Laeliinae orchids which are becoming a larger part of the collection.

I am having a hard time with Miltonium. The plants look fine but won't bloom. I think I am done with them.

Chris, have you tried growing your Phrags in a saucer with good water (I use 1/2 rain and 1/2 ground water?) I have mine in fairly high light, good air circulation, small bark mixed with lge.Perlite, and light feeding. Have no problem getting them to bloom.

Helga, i've been trying Phrags for about 7 years. I've tried saucers, no saucers, sphag, sphag bark mix, fine bark, coarse bark, S/H...you imagine it, I've tried it. It just doesn't work :(

Hi
I grow only warm wets lol. Lot easier to deal with cold than heat. I also find that cool growers are much more sensitive to heat than warm growers are to cold.
I have the best luck with Catts,Vandas,Epidendrums are almost weedy lol Many people in my area grow Cyms BUT the warm growers. I've also found Phals to be rather reliable
Pink or White flowered being the best.Another is Phaius the Tanks are easy while the flavas are a nightmare lol
Have been doing a lot of downsizing as I'm not able to give them the proper care so I'm concentrating on those I grow in the yard attached to trees or in the case of Vandas in a "hedge" arrangement. I gave away a lot of my collection because I refuse to allow them to die from neglect.
Interesting that you'd have culture problems in Brazil??
Aren't there well over a thousand "native" ?? I realise the climate is vastly different in the various areas but would think still hundreds to chose from??
gary

Oddly, I can not grow the one everyone says it so easy. Phals. I believe it's because I can't seem to get the watering regime down right. I've killed 6-7 over the last 5 years. I can grow Dens and Onc. very easily though!

By common consent Phrags are some of the more difficult orchids to grow. They like wet conditions but are also resentful if the water is stagnant. Like Disa they do best in streamside situations.

I have never had any problems with Miltonia. I grow them in the same conditions as Cattleya, bright light ( a little direct sun is OK morning and/or evening) and year round watering, extra in summer.

I'll report on my Miltonias next winter. Last summer misters where installed in the GH and better growth took place. Maybe I had my Milts in too shady a place. Will give them more A.M. sun. Thanks ifraser25.

I am aware of stagnant water for the phrags, but have read somewhere that green algea is not harmful, only dirty water. Can't give my phrags fresh, running water, but am changing the saucers frequently.

To successfully bloom most Phrags the secret is light - catt light. I tell my Phrags the algae coated saucers they sit in is how they grow in the wild. Thankfully they believe me!

Helgal remember ifraser is in Brazil with much stronger sunlight than we get. This far north they can be grown next to your catts.

Brooke

Thanks, Brooke. I have my catts under HD lights, phrags over to the side. Don Wimber seems to like it, and Sargentinianum as well. Four phrags are stalling.

Watering in winter is a problem, pipes freeze and water is turned off. DH complains if he has to turn it on/off. Ugh!
Rain water has to be hauled in via heavy buckets. Lots of work!
Hellooo S p r i n g!