Hi,

It's a little hard to say what might have gone wrong. I think that most likely it was not time to transplant them. If they had just emerged then most likely that was the problem. Keep them in your table top green house for as long as possible. If you want to start other seeds then move what has started to a sunny window. Remember to bottom water and not let them dry out. It is best if you start the seeds in containers that you intend to keep them in until setting them out.

-S

Nighthawk, could they have been too wet? That can be as detrimental as too dry. I don't recall having a problem with my zinnias 'damping off' but you might want to search that on this forum. Did the stems get thinner at soil level and then keel over? Gary

My thoughts were that Zinnia don't like to be trasplanted and should be sown in situ. Maybe start them in the peat pots to begin with?

Zinnias don't mind being transplanted. I think a possible problem is the use of peat pots. I don't feel that the use of peat pots is good for seedlings. The compressed peat of the pots is difficult for the roots of a seedling to grow through and peat has always been difficult to wet and keep moist. Trying to bottom water with a peat pot can be detrimental to your seedlings getting the even moisture that they need. I prefer the use of capillary matting and making soil blocks to set on the matting. This method allows even moisture and if you separate the soil blocks by 1/2 inches the roots will be naturally air pruned. This provides for a heavier root mass and more vigorous plants. Just put your soil blocks in your greenhouse and seed directly into them. The size of your soil blocks is dependent on how fast a variety grows. ie: Squash need a large soil block:6 inches square, tomatoes and zinnias:4 inches, many herbs and flowers do well with a two inch block. Another virtue of this system is that individual plants remove easily to pot up, leaving slower ones to grow on in the greenhouse. You can also pot your seedlings up in plastic pots if you prefer.
Happy Gardening,
Carole

Carole,

"I prefer the use of capillary matting and making soil blocks to set on the matting. This method allows even moisture and if you separate the soil blocks by 1/2 inches the roots will be naturally air pruned. This provides for a heavier root mass and more vigorous plants."

Can you give us more detail on how you make the soil blocks?

MM

I use a professional soil blocker, however, you can use any sturdy plastic or metal container that is the right size for you. Something like a square plastic freezer storage box will work just fine if the sides are ridged enough. I use some 4 x 4 soil blocks and also I use 2 x 2's. Moisten your starting medium, it should be quite wet but not soggy. You'll be able to tell what you need when you make some. If it's too dry, add water. If too wet, add additional starter mix. I use a very fine mix that is not too light. I've never had a problem with them falling apart. Force your mold into the wet mix and if necessary pack it with your hand until it feels sturdy. Turn it over and tap it out directly onto the capillary matting. (the professional ones have a handle that forces the blocks out.) Seed directly into the soil block just as you would normally.
I copied this information from a web site describing the soil blocker. This person thinks the 4 inch blocker is too big for a home grower but I don't agree. Some seeds such as squash, tomatoes and melons among others will outgrow a 2 inch block in no time. I do agree that the 2 inch block is the most versatile. I very much agree that anyone that has used one will like it. It also saves money in that you don't need any pots, or other starting containers. No washing, no storage, no breakage of pots. The block, after being hardened off, will go straight into the garden with little to no transplanting shock.

"Soil blockers
Soil blockers come in three sizes: 1/2-, 2-, and 4-inch squares. Made in England from zinc-coated steel, these tools compress moistened potting mix into perfect little blocks. There are even pins available to make perfect openings in the soil blocks for the seeds. The 4-inch model is too large for a home gardener, and the smallest model too small. Pick the 2-inch blocker, $25 to $30. Anyone who has used one swears by it."

I added a link so that you can see what the professional ones look like but you may find them cheaper somewhere else. I google searched - buy soil blocker
I have owned mine for over fifteen years. As near as I can tell, they never wear out. Feel free to email me if I can help you.
Happy Gardening,
Carole

Here is a link that might be useful: Peaceful Valley Farm and Garden Supply

This is good info, Carole. I had considered getting soil blockers but then friends who had tried one told me they found the blocks impossible to water. So a capillary mat takes care of that problem? I looked up capillary mats and I don't quite understand how you get the water to the mat -- do you line a tray with the matting, and then water the tray?

Now I want to give soil blocks a try again! Maybe next year....

Hi mbravebird,
Watering with capillary matting is the easiest thing in the world. Line your seed trays with the matting. Cut a strip of matting about 1 1/2 inches wide and pin or sew it to the matting in the seed flat. Make the strip long enough to reach into a water container. I use a bucket. The water will wick through the strip and into the seed tray. You only need to water when your bucket is getting low. No twice a day watering! I'm all for easy!
Happy Gardening,
Carole

Thanks, Carole. I'm off to order capillary matting pronto. Have you found a particularly good source for it?

I buy it at Charleys Creenhouse, although if you do a search on it, you'll come up with other places. Capillary matting can last seasons, it's very durable and if you need to you can wash it. I wash it by hand, it may wash in a clothes washer but I don't want the dirt in my machine. I included a link to Charleys below. Once you're there you can search on capillary matting
Have fun,
Carole

Here is a link that might be useful: Charleys Greenhouse

I sow tons of zinnias in late April to early May outdoors in milk jugs using the winter sowing technique. I try not to sow too thickly and plant out using the hunk o seedlings method. They germinate very quickly, but are touchy about the late frosts we sometimes get in May. Otherwise, they are pretty darn easy to grow.

I really appreciate everyone's help. You guys have given me some wonderful insight. Thanks again.