Yardvaark said "Whatever you do ... whatever lines you make, you must make some simple, clean artistic geometry out of them. If you want more lawn on the west side, you can do it ... but adjust the lines to reflect simplicity, s m o o t h n e s s and the boundaries of nearby objects." I concur. Yard and bed edges that are squiggly remind me of group of people all talking over each other with no one saying anything of importance. It's confusing, distracting, and generally unpleasant. There is also the element of scale, the balance of area size for plants to that allotted for yard. I like to size the plant area to something no less than half the area of the sum of lawn and any hardscape devoted to people. And the plant area should not be more than twice the 'people' area. The size of landscape elements should be compatible with the overall size. For large areas use at least some larger shrubs, trees, walks. and decks. For smaller areas, scale down everything. To begin this discussion I selected a single objective you gave, that of making "the yard look deeper instead of a shallow and wide rectangle". There are an infinite number of desirable arrangements you might choose. In the end you may want to discard this idea in favor of developing some other idea. I admit I had my own motive in selecting that one goal for review. Landscaping is a blend of science and art. Years ago on this forum there were regular participants that made their living doing landscape design along with a host of others that had long studied the academic principles involved. I miss those discussions we had. The implementation of "making the yard look deeper instead of a shallow and wide rectangle" could have led to such a discussion even though it may of had limited benefit to the homeowner.

Yes, I harvested seeds from it last fall by pulling the seeds out of the fruit. I have stored them in the fridge for the last year not knowing what to do with them. I don't know if they would be viable any longer. I may just scatter them on the ground outside near the other plant and let nature take it's course. These new seeds will be treated according to the information I have found on Solomons Seal and Winter Sowing. I am also considering dividing the root. It says to do it on plants that are several years old. Mine is at least 4 years old. Thanks, Bruce

Looks like the deck is used primarily for access to the backyard and ground level patio area. Not sure there is sufficient space (or height) for a multilevel deck to be practical without eating up the small backyard (Bay area properties tend not to be very spacious - land is often at a premium and expensive). And as it appears the OP may have kids or pets, the modestly sized lawn is an asset, not something that necessarily needs to be reduced. Also nicely sets off the planting beds. I would also agree that plantings that will eventually obscure access to the underdeck area as well as the view from the inside out are not advisable. But some sort of vining, flowering plant to grow up the supports and along the base of the deck would be a nice accent. No lavender by the Japanese maple. They do not share similar growing conditions and not enough sun for the lavender to thrive. Iris could work or some sort of evergreen ornamental grass to provide a textural contrast.....the lomandra could work very nicely.

Some thoughts on two projects: One: What is the most practical path from the point of origin at the house to get to your dock -- the path you now use ? Would that path begin at the corner of the house closest to the yard toys -- either a straight or curved path -- until you get to the toys and then from the toys beyond them to the dock? That walk path is where you should begin to create dirt steps about 4'-6' wide by using railroad ties strategically placed across the path as temporary small retaining walls to create level or gently sloping "steps" between the rail road ties -- digging to throw dirt above or below the railroad ties as needed. As you walk, you might take two or three steps on each dirt step you create. As you use the dirt steps you can see what steps work best and what steps need to be adjusted before you invest in blocks or stone for more permanent retaining walls for your grass covered dirt steps). Two: you might consider putting a retaining wall all along the lower point of the yard where you usually cease to mow -- below the hill. Literally dig a deep ditch for a footing/foundation along that line above which you cannot safely mow. You could then put rebar in place and have concrete poured into the ditch (BEFORE before you remove the dirt from below the ditch/concrete wall so the sides of the ditch can serve as a form for your retaining wall) -- before you throw any that dirt from below the ditch to above it. Once your poured concrete has set up, you can add a bock wall atop it, then begin to remove the dirt from below the concrete retaining wall to above the concrete retaining wall, adding other layers of concrete blocks to the wall as you are able to reach it from either above or below until you've achieved a reasonably level area both above and below the wall. You could then face the poured concrete with stone or brick if you choose.. DO make sure the bottom of the ditch you dig is lower that the ground level you want for the lower flatter area below the poured concrete retaining wall.. A ditch dug with a back hoe or other equipment will be wider that what you might dig by hand and take more concrete to fill but with the wider concrete wall you're pouring, you're building strength into your retaining wall. Do post some after pics to show us what you've done.