I use mine now as a replacement for a slice seeder. Once I seed I run over the ground with the spike aerator with no weight. Helps with soil contact. The spike one alone can compact the soil rather than aerate. I have never heard before that leaving the plugs on top would add nitrogen. I'd think a spring and fall aeration is a good schedule.

Hi! We've all gone through this learning process, and it continues to this day. To cut or not to cut is an eternal debate in orchid growing. I've enclosed a link below to the FAQ, which are an excellent resource for you, and there is a question specifically about cutting the spike. Your options are this as I see it: cut into the green spike, right above the last unflowered node (or a couple of centimeters below your dragonfly clip, above that bract). You would do this in the hopes that it would put out another branch. Or you can cut the spike all the way at the bottom. Doing this will encourage your orchid to put energy into vegetative growth and, when the time is right and with proper care, it will put a brand new spike, which will make for a much better display. It's really up to you. Julie Here is a link that might be useful: FAQ

Thanks for answering. I'd like to have summer blooming phals, but I'm not sure what I bought, because of the big box type stores they came from. 2 of the phals that were blooming in June and July are spiking now, but maybe the others will wait til next year. I haven't been able to find very much info on summer or fall blooming phals. Do they require the same temperature drops as the winter blooming ones?

There is no simple answer to this as it depends on environment and so many other variables. This person is growing in NY. Her plant needs to survive the winter indoors with low humidity. Orchid roots cannot stay wet. The mix has to fit the environment. The pot size needs to fit the environment. Bark soaks in the water. If watered too frequently it never dries out. The roots stay wet and air is blocked. If you want to overpot, you need to use a large bark mix, something which allows the air to flow through. But during winter some sphag should be mixed in to prevent the roots from drying out. Many new growers tend to over-water and in a large pot the bark, as James explained, does not dry out. The roots will start dying and the plant might send out aerial roots into the air. In a dry environment, those roots will dry out. The safest way to prevent all these hypothetical situations is to underpot. Water when the bark feels almost dry and the plant will thrive. I have grown Phals in NY for many years and now in Florida. Florida is a totally different culture. High heat, high humidity. New York, warm summers, cold winters indoors, very low humidity. I would recommend 'Summerlee' repot after flowering in a pot that is not too big. Give it some protection by covering the surface of the bark with a thin layer of sphag moss during winter and only water when 'almost dry.' Jane