I used the Jiffy Peat Pellets with the 72-tray. If you google 'Jiffy Greenhouse', it should take you right to it. The tray, lid and pellets cost me $6.00 at Walmart. I've seen a similar 'knock-off' product at Home Depot made by Burpee for roughly the same price, although the pellets seemed smaller. Once my tomatoes get their first 'true' set of leaves and/or I see roots coming out the side netting, I transfer to peat pots ($1.39 for ten of them) with actual soil to fill in the spaces. I only use the 3' pots since I don't plan on them living there long enough before the whole thing, pot and all will get transplanted to the garden. Also note that you should be able to skip the whole peat pot thing and move the pellets with seedlings directly to your garden. I'm just doing it to free up the tray so I can start my 'round two' of plants. Here is a link that might be useful: You can find these cheaper locally

Safyre--sometimes it is better to start a new thread rather than adding onto an old one. As for your question, it really would help to know what plants you're talking about. (As to the OP where how many seeds really depend on the plant). Are you talking transplanting into pots indoors, or into a garden. Since Houzz got rid of zone info, where are you at? I'm in Denver, so starting seeds now would mean I can't transplant out until April/May at the general earliest (my veg garden is just in plans right now for seed starting soon). But I have lots of pots indoors for the winter. All are different--I have some newly sprouted chives that I seeded directly into their pots. But I won't start my basil for another month or so, because it shouldn't go out until end of May due to our night temps here.

What kind of 6 packs do you have? Are they the kind with the small drainage holes cut into the bottom edges? If so, it will be slightly challenging, though not impossible to convert. Probably well worth trying in any case. The capillary mat works only by direct contact with the growing medium. If the holes in the cell packs are too small, there is little or no contact with the growing medium, so the cells don't take up water. For best results, you should carefully cut out the bottoms so that there is direct contact. When you set the plants onto the capillary mat, gently compress each cell down to ensure good contact. I think that will be easier than creating a small wick for each cell. Besedes that, I think it'll work fine and that you'll be very pleased. Just remember to lift the cell packs periodically or the roots will start to grow into the capillary matting. -Kris, proud owner of a 100' roll of Capmat II

coolbythecoast That is exactly my experience the moisture evaporates and condenses on the dome and in turn collects and runs down the side thus relocating that moisture that was removed from the center area to the outside area. I've long since removed the domes which has eliviated most of that issue. One solution that would have helped durring the time I was using the domes would have been to make some holes in the dome so that the humidity doesn't get so high which should help with the condensation. I had finally reached a point where I'd stopped bottom watering the trays all together and instead turned to spot watering from above as needed to keep all the cells properly moist. This has allowed the outer cells to dry up to where they should be and the dry cells moisturized propperly. All seems well now other than the seedlings that bit the dust. Fortunatly the great majority of the casualties were to varieties that are common to the local greenhouses and can easily be replaced. I'll soon be relocating many of the seedlings to larger plastic cups as many of them are getting quite well developed. Then I can condense my flats to the seedlings that have some room to grow before being moved to cups. One cool thing this year is I have a digital camera and have taken lots of pictures as they have grown. Thanks, Mike