Mike,

Just a matter of technique. I use 3 trays. The bottom seed flat, the middle tray with all the holes and the top 72 cell tray with individual cell holes in bottom. Watering is done in a large Sterilite storage container with 2" or so of old water in. Remove bottom seed flat and set the other two into the water and let hydrate for 30 min or less. It's easy to see when each cell is completely hydrated because the top will change color. Tedious, but works perfectly every time.

This may sound silly, but make sure each seed cell has a good slit cut in the bottom. Every year I find one or two that look like they have been punched through, but in fact are not.

jt

Thanks John, I'll give that a try next season, do you get your 3 tray setup anywhere in particular? I got mine from the local super center and its just three parts the flat, the individual cell treys and a clear plastic dome. It's possible some of the wholes aren't cleanly open. I didn't inspect it that closely. part of the reason the outside cells were damper was because the condensation build up on the clear dome would run down the sides and drip down into those cells. i've had the domes off for a while now. I was probably causing some of the quick drying by having the domes on. it's possible this drew moisture out of the cells towards the center and relocated the moisture along the outside cells.

Another one of my summer projects is to build a custom setup specifically for starting seeds. I've been working on plans for it. Right now I waist so much light space and shelf space. My goal is to make a much more efficient rig.

When is time to give up on a seedling? I've got some where the leaves have curled up like fruit rollups and no amount of water seems to make em snap out of it. I have some though that have have a thick stem at the bottom but it suddenly becomes skinny where before the stem was all skinny. Is it possible a seedling like this may eventually snap out of it or even if it does will it be so severely stunted that it won't be worth the effort to revive it.

Mike,

You would not believe the choices in cell inserts, trays and clear plastic domes available to me at a nursery supply store about 20 min away. I just picked the below website at random.

jt

Here is a link that might be useful: Flats

I also use the 72-cell inserts to start my pepper seeds (actually I start them in coffee filters, and transfer the sprouts). I water the cells individually from the top. At first I use a mister, then a small watering can. Once the seedlings have established themselves and the roots are more than 1" deep, I allow the surface of the soil to dry out before watering. The individual, from the top, approach allows me to water only the seedlings that need it.

This year I started 4 flats of peppers, so yes it takes a little time, but I don't mind.

I think a lot of watering issues can be solved by a good potting mix. I use Premier ProMix VFT and BX. Both contain wetting agents and the BX has a mycorrhizal fungi that has a synergistic relationship with the root system that promotes growth and development.

Here is a link that might be useful: ProMix

Most of my peppers are currently in the 72 flats or will be transplanted to them soon. All cell packs may occasionally have a few cells that either receive insufficient water or dry out sooner than others in the same tray.

That is just another reason why I always start seeds in open slotted trays. The water will wick from one end of the tray to the other and germination period is most critical for even moisture.

There are a few considerations for wick watering the 72 cell trays. I don't know that you need three trays but I always use a webbed base tray for support. it allows water to easily reach under the 72 liners.

Also when setting the trays into water have enough water to almost reach the top sides of the trays. You'll notice the water will wick much faster with more water. Be careful, especially with direct seeding, that you don't submerge trays as they wick water.

I use Promix media also and often the cells will be visibly saturated in less than a minute after setting the trays in water. For cells that appear dry just sprinkle lightly from the top with a sprinkling can before setting up to drain.

Webbed Tray

The webbed tray inserts cost twice as much as the trays with the holes in the bottom. Both work equally well. The webbed ones look so cool though!

Watering container.

You can easly see which cells have been completely hydrated by the dark color at surface. This illustration shows it rather nicely. Not rocket science.

jt

John this may sound like a dumb question, but do you leave the cells inside the webbed tray at all times? I would think trying to lift the cells out of the webbed tray once it's wet would be way to heavy to life the cells as they are all connected together (or do you separate them into idividual cells). And secondly, can you leave the cells in the webbes tray and then just lift that out of the water container and back into a flat? Sorry if that sounds confusing, but I am wondering if cells+webbed tray into flat.

4p's,

Not a dumb question at all. The answer is yes. Seed tray on the bottom. Then web tray followed by the 72 cell insert. I cut out 72 individual little cells and put one by one into an intact 72 cell insert. That way I can remove seedlings one by one as needed. It sounds cumbersome, but is very efficient. For watering I just remove the bottom tray and put the rest in a tub of water.

They make trays with holes in the bottom than can replace the special web tray at 1/2 the cost and they work just as well. And drilling holes in a seed tray should work too.

jt

I'm going to try to find the webbed tray. Wish me luck, I looked online and didn't see them. Maybe the local nursery will have them.

They were harder to find than I thought would be.

Holes

Webbed 10/20

Gave up on trying to find the webbed ones sold singly, but what a great price for 50! I pay nearly $2 ea I think.

They both work equally well.

Thanks John, not sure I need 50 but at least it's a place I can get them from if I cant find them locally.

peppermike, here's my obvservation on my 72 cell trays with clear covers and a heating mat.

First, I think that the inner cells get the warmest and evaporate the moisture first.

Second, I watch the clear cover condense the evaporated water and sweat the water to the edges, watering the outside ring of cells.

Combined there is quite a difference between the inner and outer cells.

Despite my keen powers of obsrvation and deduction (smile) I have no miracle cure. I water the center cells often, the outer cells never.

Gary

I have leeks and onions in the 144 cell trays and notice the opposite effect- outer cells are always drying first.

There are a lot of variables to consider other than cell drainage holes... the type of media, relative fullness of cells, compaction of media, air movement around exposed surfaces, temperature and humidity. I probably missed a few dozen.

The bottom line is that everything needs to be checked regularly in this line of work. As plants grow they transpire much water through leaves and need even more frequent watering.

As a side note I never ordered a webbed tray but I now possess thundreds of them. Same is for the 48 and 72 cell packs. But I notice there are many types-- some are quite rigid, some have larger web spacing. They all work but the heavy duty ones work better for heavier pots.

John, I'd suggest you get the 6(12 per tray) or 9(8 per tray) pack cell packs. I can't imaging the headaches of messing with single cells.

bmoser writes > John, I'd suggest you get the 6(12 per tray) or 9(8 per tray) pack cell packs. I can't imaging the headaches of messing with single cells.

Well, I'm not a power grower. 80-100 containers going at a time and usually at least 40 are overwintered from previous years. I have every tray and cell insert size there is and have used most of them depending on the need. My mom in MN will soon have her 10 plants in the 8 per tray in large square pots that fit so neatly into the inserts. Her pepper plants in the same. I'm just days away from plant-out depending on the 10 day forecast. Tomatoes will go out first and peppers a week or so later. Later part of May will drive to MN and help plant her traditional garden in some of the best soil in the world thanks to the glaciers that stole topsoil from our neighbors to the North.

It's not a headache!

jt

I'm not trying to be critical John but if you set a tray full of 72 individual cells needing water into a pan of water most of them will immediately float up and tilt in every direction. Your picture shows the 18 cell tray which is doable because they weigh much more. Maybe you have a way to anchor them down.

The 48 cell six packs take up the same tray space as the 72 cell 9 packs and I prefer to work with either of them. But I notice that they will float somewhat if the potting media is on the dry side. Another convenience with 6 or 9 packs is that you can use one label per pack or less if you split varieties within a tray.

I admit the 48s and 72s are the end of the line for me with most veg. crops since I use a water wheel planter and larger cells won't work well. But I'm frugle in that I recycle all the packs repeatedly, some going now 15 or more years. I just dip them in bleach soln., let them dry and replant.

I'm sure you have a system and I wouldn't suggest that you change it. We probabably do many things much the same way. Lately it's a routine of work outside til dark, then transplant til midnight.

coolbythecoast
That is exactly my experience the moisture evaporates and condenses on the dome and in turn collects and runs down the side thus relocating that moisture that was removed from the center area to the outside area. I've long since removed the domes which has eliviated most of that issue.

One solution that would have helped durring the time I was using the domes would have been to make some holes in the dome so that the humidity doesn't get so high which should help with the condensation. I had finally reached a point where I'd stopped bottom watering the trays all together and instead turned to spot watering from above as needed to keep all the cells properly moist. This has allowed the outer cells to dry up to where they should be and the dry cells moisturized propperly.

All seems well now other than the seedlings that bit the dust. Fortunatly the great majority of the casualties were to varieties that are common to the local greenhouses and can easily be replaced. I'll soon be relocating many of the seedlings to larger plastic cups as many of them are getting quite well developed. Then I can condense my flats to the seedlings that have some room to grow before being moved to cups. One cool thing this year is I have a digital camera and have taken lots of pictures as they have grown.

Thanks,
Mike