Just some additional thoughts. What is the outlet from the bio wheel filter.. ie the flow. Too high a flow can ravage their fins tissue which is a single cell thin. (I use sponge to slow it down or silk plants attached to outlet). Also, they can handle lots of salt during treatment, and adding 1/2 to one teaspoon per 10 gallon helps to keep them (my experience) free(er) from bacteria. It needs to be added slowly over time though. They have been so inbred that they are not at all as hardy as when I was younger and in my opinion need extra care. Plus the way they are shipped in a few teaspoon of water so on, they arrive highly stressed in medicated water. So, prone to bacteria. I have found that salt water dips, (aquarium salt of course) each day and fresh water changes helps a lot. I rescued bettas (ok did one more lately) and use to use meds but the salt water workes best even with the extremely hard to rid flexibar columinaris (which looks like stringy fungus but is bacterial). Or you can use a gram positive and gram negative med plus the salt. Use your hospital tank so as not to hurt plants, bio load. Take out all plants, salt treatment will kill. Use soft silk (large leaves better as they like to sit on or hide under when asleep).. Use 1/2 to 1 teaspoon per gallon for hospital tank, then each day tank him out with tub (plastic container and cover so he won't jump).. I lower lights place towel over container, (inside of larger incase he does jump) Then I slowly dribble additional salted water for a soak, while I clean his main tank. I have had fish recover nicely from this, but it took some work. Melefix will help with healing tissue after bacteria gone. I have found they can handle much larger salt loads, but am hesitant to suggest this, just watch for stress, ie frantic swimming. And go slow slow slow. Then reverse with his fresh (adjust to match) clean tank water until equal and gentle place him back in. I never use nets just cup them gently in containers. (there are pros and cons on salt but I've used it since I was a kid many decades ago, per Dr. Innes and no problems and much help. Has to be used properly though). ........................... from a forum The simple answer is that bettas do not like much salt in their water. Bettas will tolerate a certain amount of salt in their water; however, there is a limit. Salt will change the flow of water due to a change in the concentration. All fish will tolerate salt to some degree, but when there's too much they will dehydrate due to water flowing out of the creature. Saltwater fish have kidneys that allow them to expel excess salt while retaining their water. Freshwater fish do the opposite - they expel water because of the concentration gradient. When using salt, you should use it for specific problems or needs. If you don't know when it's right, do some research. For example, FishEnthusiast.com notes that: "Salt puts electrolytes in the water that stimulate production of the mucus coating that protects fish from infection. At the same time, it alters the chemical balance of the water, usually increasing the pH. Salt also helps inhibit bacterial growth at least the kind that seem to cause algal blooms in freshwater aquariums." Salt assists in the healing of injuries, promotes formation of slime coating, improves gill function, reduces the buildup of nitrite (useful when setting up new tanks: 1/2 ounce of salt per gallon), and is effective against some parasites. However, it is a double-edged sword; there are also some downfalls. For example, some plants and fish species cannot tolorate salt. This yet another reason you should do a little research before treating a problem. It is NOT advised to use salt with scaleless fish, particularly cordydoras. These species are particularly sensitive to salt, and even a small amount can harm them. Also, tetras are fairly sensitive to salt. More useful information regarding salt: Salt in a Freshwater Aquarium Re: feeding, in nature when animals are really sick they often don't eat, much as people don't. The body is working immune system wise to repair and has more resources then you can imagine. But since you mentioned that he came alive with worms seems he might have been finicky (as they often are at first). Remember their stomachs are as small as their eyes. It is easy to overfeed, esp with dry food as it swells inside when wet. A small amount will do it. I feed a few pinchs of flake, chaning types for variety (live brine shrimp when I can find them, and Hakiri sterilized blood worms, as the live and non Hakiri always caused bacterial problems with any fish that ate them. They are grown in sewage like conditions and freezing does not kill the nasty bacterial or parasites. Hence Hakiri is three times sterilized (forgive my bad spelling). I feed a bit of vegetable matter in late afternoon to provide a purging of earlier meaty meal.)

hills: i think the humidity is pretty high, no hygrometer but all the sides except for 1 are all full of condensation. i got the *&^%@ to take it out of the pot yesterday and no roots what so ever. i stuck it in a cup of vf superthrive solution and it seemed to perk up. but i think im gonna loose the last 2 adult leaves the cutting had on it. Ill post pics this afternoon :>) dont want to have to try again with the price of this cutting. but i will. the blooms have me swooning! (sheepishly) do any of you think you can part with a cutting if this one fails? More important Question: do you think it might be better to cut the end off the cutting and leave it to root in water? the end is so calloused over i dont think any water is actually getting sucked up.

can I add please ? yellowing plants could also result from lack of potassium intake... I think a lot of folks over-look this. it doesn't necessarily display it's self with browning tips. therefore many people think of nitrogen deficiency. that is not always the case

Thought I'd better catch up and let the newer folks know a bit about me. Married, all kids are too, and altogether there are 7 grandkids. We have no allergies but a few dislikes or aversions: DH loathes olives, the fruit. I dont like florals very much and definitely dont heavily many scented things. Love citrus scents thought or those that could be defined as "grass" clean, not overwhelming. Like handmade or homemade just about anything. I dont lean towards things Victorian or very ornate Love metal, wood, stone, ceramic, organic looking things Neither one of us is fond of the blood-sausage-type things. We both like nuts, chocolate (mines dark, his is lighter but he is changing), spices, sweet and savory things. I love lemon, We eat at home often, I love to set a pretty table, linen napkins everyday We divide our time between NYC and a small town in CT. We are moving in the fall to and down-sizing in NY. CT: The country home is eclectic leans towards the whimsical or lyrical, my color palette is basically established by all the things that I own. You can check it out on picturetrail.com under bubbeskitchen. It is the Sherman House album. NY is contemporary and traditional. We are changing our color palette when we move from the neutrals with dusty peach to spicy colors: saffron, ginger, paprika. My new kitchen is right out in the open; the counters are slate, the cabinets and appliances are wood-grain and the sink and stove are stainless. So I guess my new digs will be more contemporary to modern and streamline if I can do it. Here is a link: http://cielocondos.com/home12.html My kitchen layout is like the dining room picture link on the bottom of the "great spaces" page. I kind of have a free-wheeling thing going on and an opportunity to try new stuff. I do intend to reduce visible clutter by containerizing a lot. Thats what comes to mind right now. Hope that it helps. Bubbe