Going back a century or two, Vibert, writing in 1830 in the context of the stocks available in his time, decidedly preferred own-root. (He was drawing on personal experience with grafting reaching back to at least 1815.) As you'll see, he wasn't so much considering the size or floriferousness of the plants as he was the plant's general health and longevity. After many pages of discussion of the distressing ins and outs of grafting, he turns to own-root plants: "Own-roots do especially well where the earth is not too sandy or too hard; in these two cases, correction is necessary by the known methods employed on similar occasions. These are not difficult: Frequent hoeing; some watering during great heat, especially during bloom; pruning appropriate to their sort--these are the main efforts required. Plants which are very feeble or very delicate require a lighter soil, though still substantial; and, by way of precaution, protection from too much sun the first year. Their existence not being restrained, as it is with grafted specimens under the influence of another sort, they fend for themselves, developing without let the faculties proper to them; and, freed from our meddling--too frequently fatal to them--they can attain an age which does not always come to the hand that planted them. From the modest place Nature assigned them, they have seen pass all these ephemeral generations of big grafted Briars, vain pride of our beds, which borrowed--but only for a few moments--their grace, and the freshness of their blossoms. [...] The mania for grafted specimens further keeps merchants from putting themselves to the trouble [of producing own-roots] in many localities, because they would not sell. It is necessary to have very wide-spread dealings, especially outside of France, to get a turnover with them; and I know some very respected and learned nurserymen who would have no sales at all if all they had was own-roots. These persons have them on hand to sell because they know the advantages of them, and are forced to sacrifice to the bad taste of the day in grafting Briar tree-roses. Raising own-roots for commerce is, in truth, longer in the doing and thus more expensive than raising grafted plants; and this reason may explain the preference given to these latter; however, true fanciers, who are in the practice of growing, make no mistake, and are well aware of the bad effects of grafting as it is done." The subject of grafts continued to interest him throughout his life; indeed, in 1865, fifteen years after he retired and the year before he died, he was still writing articles on the matter ("Observations Relative to the Influence of the Graft on the Stock," in this case about grafting Pears). I can add, from my own experience, that own-root specimens of 'Souvenir de la Malmaison' are, in the long run, much more satisfactory than grafted specimens, at least under my conditions. While the flowers are perhaps a little smaller than in grafted specimens, and the canes and growth perhaps a little less strong, the blossoms, being less "ambitious," don't ball as they frequently do in grafts, and the plants have a nearly continuous growth and bloom, while the grafts I've had tend to grow and bloom in bursts. I find a lot of truth in Vibert's statement "Their existence not being restrained, as it is with grafted specimens under the influence of another sort, they fend for themselves, developing without let the faculties proper to them; and, freed from our meddling--too frequently fatal to them--they can attain an age which does not always come to the hand that planted them."

OK, the first post said "top of the bush," but the followup said "throughout the plant." Even light green foliage all over the plant is probably a shortage of nitrogen. You said other roses that you fertilized are nice and green, so fertilize the pale ones with something that contains available (fast) nitrogen. Perhaps the soil mix contained something like partially decayed leaves or sawdust, which "rob nitrogen" for the first year or so.

These are both exceptional roses. They both have some shade tolerance, so four hours of sun might be fine. In the book "The English Roses", Mr. Austin speaks highly about both. He considers Golden Celebration, perhaps his finest rose. But if they are going in a container, yes Jubilee is the one for you. I am so surprised that in California it is staying so compact. Usually an Austin rose becomes mega here. By the way that fragrance on JC is so lemony and fresh.

Don't do any pruning beyond your regular winter pruning, which in your case probably won't be til January or so? Hard to give any advice on timing when you don't specify where you are beyond zone 9 in the US. Pruning the tops does not make a plant grow roots. It does rob the plant of the energy it would have used to grow new roots. So, just leave it alone for now. I use thorny rose or blackberry prunings to protect plants from burrowing rodents. Shove the thorniest canes into the burrows. I've also successfully used those sonic gopher repellers that you drive into the soil and they make a beeping noise. Works well enough if you put them close enough together and only try to protect a small area so the gophers or voles have some place else to go. I would think it would work for a single plant. Not a whole yard. You do have to get them all the way into the ground or you'll hear the beeping too, and the batteries need replacing every 6 months. Gophers can eat an entire root system and leave the plant just balanced on the soil with nothing holding it there. Nothing much you can do in that case. Voles don't generally eat the entire root system so the plant can recover once you convince the voles to leave the plant alone.