Pain is associated with congestion and acidosis (over-acid conditions). It is important to alkalize and detoxify the whole body with a raw food diet and herbal program. An acid diet creates acidosis Acidosis is the main reason behind inflammation Acids damage and mutate cells Your lymphatic (sewer) system is your main immune system that helps keep your cells acidic wastes from accumulating in and around cells. Acid-forming diets inflame the colon, kidneys, and thyroid (skin) thus, reducing their ability to filter ones lymphatic system, including the lymph nodes (septic tanks) As ones lymphatic system backs up, so do cellular, systemic and parasitic wastes. Thus, acidosis/inflammation builds up in many tissues of the body, head to toe. Lymph nodes swell, pimples, boils, abscesses and tumors are formed, etc. In time, normal cells move to A-typical then to cancer To cure is to reverse how you created it. Add a little "magic" from our little friends...the Herbs! Foods rich in astringent and anti-oxidants are high on the list in cancer cases. Fruits fit this need to a tee! Fructose is a much higher vibrational sugar requiring no cellular loss of energy in its utilization. In other words, if it were me, I would only eat raw fruits, vegetables, and herbs(ideally organic, but conventional will do). My mother has severe scoliosis, so I could tell you a thing about back pain.. She also has artificial hips, knees, as well as shoulders. She is in excruciating pain. Matter a fact, she just stopped taking her pain pills and other pharmaceuticals because of the "side effects", they were making her sick. I encourage her to eat more "healthy", trying to eliminate everything out of a package, junkfood, with more whole natural foods like fruit and salads. I also forage for dozens of herbs, one of her favorite, or should i say best pain relief is stinging nettle. I rub it on her back and the prickers inject phyto chemicals(plant medicine) into her, she says they help better than pain pills, she can't wait for them to start growing in another few weeks! In short, only eat healthy food(fruits and vegetables, preferably raw, uncooked), only drink healthy (filtered, pure, clean water), get adequate sleep, control your stress. That is key to all illness. It's what you eat, drink, breath, and put on your skin. Start reading all your ingredients, better yet, if it comes in a package with a list of ingredients, don't buy it. Again, it's what you eat, drink, breath, and put on your skin. Start making those things healthy, you will be healthy. It's really that simple. Don't wait for a magic drug cure, start living healthy right now.

Mamuang, It sounds like you know I'm a big proponent of mounds. Please let me take a moment and explain why. In my location I could never get peach trees to do very well when planted on flat ground. I used to loose lots of peach trees. I'd read in the literature that peach trees need well drained soil, but the literature makes that statement for pretty much all fruit trees. They don't tell you peach trees need it much more than most other trees (about the only tree that needs well drained soil more than peach is apricot). At some point I visited a commercial peach orchard in the area. He told me to grow successful peach trees in this area they must be planted in a mound/terrace. The combination of loosing lots of peach trees, watching many of them languish, and visiting with the peach orchardist finally made me realize I needed to do something about drainage. Still, I resisted mounds at that point because I already had many trees planted. Instead, I ended up tiling the orchard area. We dug a 4' ditch around the orchard area and put in gravel and field tile to drain the water away. This helped quite a bit, but I noticed some of the trees were still water stressed (too much water). I spent a lot of money, but it still didn't completely solve my problem. That's when I decided I would not plant another peach tree unless it was in a mound/terrace. For existing trees I didn't want to remove, I started mulching very lightly (vs. heavy mulching) which seemed to reduce the stress of water logging. But still trees in mounds outperform trees in the ground. That's why I think I can say in this area mounds are the number one cultural principle to having healthy peach trees. Probably the second most important is mulch. Peach trees are not generally all that competitive. Their roots are fairly shallow and so have to directly compete with turf and weeds. Some other fruit trees (like apples and pears) send down deeper roots and don't have to compete as much with other plants. Mulch reduces the root competition as well as foliage competition with weeds/grass. It keeps the soil temps more stable and keeps the soil moisture stable. Lastly, mulch is a constant slow release fertilizer. If you think about it from the plants perspective. Mounds provide perfect drainage (It's impossible to water log a mound regardless of how much rain you get.) Mulch reduces all competition, provides a uniform soil moisture and fertilizes at the same time. It's the ultimate protective environment (Only a well managed green house provides more protection). One other thing that reduces stress (and consequently increases vigor) is that I thin early. I have a lot of trees to thin and regardless that we work as fast as we can, it still takes a while to thin all the trees. I notice right after I thin, not only do I see an immediate bump in fruitlet size, but the trees will start putting on more vegetative growth as well. Removing 80% of the fruit takes a huge load/burden off them and they respond accordingly. I'd guess I'd sum up my response to your question as mounds, mulch, and thinning without delay. All that said, I actually have more vigor than I want. It's not that I think mulch reduces fruit quality. I don't know if you saw it, but there was a good thread on this forum a few days ago about the effect of N on fruit quality. I think it was pretty much agreed too little or too much N reduces quality. I think the removal of competition the mulch creates, as well as having a healthy root structure (from the mounds) naturally produces trees with lots of vitality. The N from the mulch adds to that. Only once have I noticed the fruit suffer from too much N, and that was when I was mulching heavily with fresh grass clippings. I've sold to many customers who have their own backyard peach trees (they don't get fruit from them routinely because the trees are pretty much unmanaged). As a general rule they tell me my peaches exceed theirs for flavor. One customer told her husband they need to just cut their peach tree down and buy my peaches:-) My biggest problem with all the vigor is it causes too much pruning. I have to remove about 50% of the canopy each season to keep the trees at the height I want. I prune in the summer, but I'm trying to get more aggressive about it to see if I can't slow the growth down a bit.

Yes, I added Miracle grows Tomato fertilizer once or twice to see if it made a differens but nothing really happened. Also we've done worm compost tea every three weeks where I also add a little bat guano (10-10-2, 0-12-0) and sulfate of potash(0-0-50). Thrips... where're all my beneficial buddies to eat them...;)

I live in San Diego, near the water. It hasn't been over 80 degrees yet, and the nights don't get below 60.