flax as a green manure
veggiecanner
18 years ago
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fertilizersalesman
18 years agocaptaincompostal
18 years agoRelated Discussions
How long after tilling in green manure till planting?
Comments (11)Normally green manures are tilled in approximately 6-8 weeks prior to planting so they have some time to decompose. Is it possible to plant sooner than that, say a 2 weeks wait instead? Yes if certain adjustments are made. The balance that needs to be maintained between greens and browns, carbons and nitrogens, for the ideal results is a bit complicated so most prefer to just let time take care of it. Let time resolve the nutrient binding process. But when you don't have that time you can compensate for that imbalance by adding additional nitrogen sources. The ideal ratio is basically 3 parts carbons to 1 part nitrogen. Note "basically" as there are many other variables involved too. So by adding additional nitrogen - high N fertilizer in some form - you can offset that binding issue, give the plants the nitrogen they need, and give the soil the time it needs to balance itself out. Then you need to take into consideration the nutrient needs of plants you will be planting in that early bed. They need to be nitrogen lovers like leafy greens and cole crops, not low-tolerance for nitrogen plants like legumes, peppers, or root crops. Wait on planting them until the vetch decomposition is well along and the soil balance has begun to stabilize. Normally not a problem as most of those plants have very different planting times anyway. Following me? In the future either till in much earlier or don't till, just mow and let it decompose on the top of the soil. Dave...See MoreRhizobacteria success with red clover green manure
Comments (8)"Roll JPW over, in the red clover..." :) It's not quite so soft and lush as it looks in the photo, unfortunately. Having multiple pounds of Red Clover seed on hand and not much space or likelyhood of using it, I oversowed heavily, raked them lightly into the surface soil and then pressed the seeds down with a flat board prior to a gentle watering. No thinning followed and many plants grew. They're still in heavy competition for light; fast growing tall and spindly. And the clay of the bed underneath is stubbornly resistant to being amended. Think I'm going to have to lasagna it many feet thick, this coming fall. However, Lyn's photos do make it look real nice, she knows how to work a digicam. Here's another clickable image from last fall, a clover closeup: All the best, -Patrick...See MoreCover crops/green manure?
Comments (11)Oh... I also think this CHART is pretty phenomenal. It lists cover crops and their specific uses. The article I posted above is pretty detailed. For example the Barbara Pleasant (Mother Earth) article linked above, she suggests "biodrilling" into clay soil with the sharp roots of daikon radishes and canola rape. Then you can turn to the chart I like here and find out that diakon attracts beneficial insects and loosens heavy soil, but it doesn't fix Nitrogen or add much organic matter. However, Canola will add organic matter, keep out weeds and tolerate the heavy soil. Used together its a pretty good pair, but still doesn't fix any Nitrogen. I think these two resources together are great as tools for selecting the best cover crops (together with zone info, etc) but they don't give me a good idea of when to plant what in zone 10 California. Hence....I'm still begging for a good calender of which common cover crops can be planted/turned in which months. I'd like to see: buckwheat, clover, barley, peas/beans, oats, radish (esp daikon), rape, rye, vetch. Here is a link that might be useful: Cover Crop Chart - Functions of various plants...See Moregreen manure
Comments (21)Tulsacitygardener... The Buckwheat oats sounds like a good combination, especially since I plan to plant some garlic this fall. Great idea for a mulch that will stay put til harvest too. Larry... I have 3 separate areas saved for growing cover crops. I was planning a rotation scheme. I like the idea of planting alfalfa because, yes, as you've said, I have heard that the roots grow incredibly deep. Since it could be mowed, I like the idea even better, wet or not. My soil is a rich sandy loam but I still think it drains too fast in the summer. Basically, I need the mulch to continue building my lasagna garden, layer upon layer, and until the recent rains I was running out of grass clippings. If I could ever get compost for $10 a yard like you did, I'd be in hog heaven, lol! ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Mulberryknob... the newspaper is a great idea for around the base of plants. And your right, you do have to wet it down. Last year I mulched some potato plants with shredded newspaper and then tossed some spoiled hay on top of that. The snakes loved it. I didn't! lol! That was when I worked on the ranch, so I don't have access to spoiled hay now... and it's just as well since I do not like that deep a mulch or even need it really. Every time I've had a deep mulch like that in a garden I had snake problems and I do not like snakes! Especially with kids, (or me),around. This year, since I learned about the lasagna gardening technique, I've been pretty happy with that, even though it's been a big job getting the transformation started. I still have to make plain rows where I can't plug in plants, and that's where the newspaper comes in handy, and some light mulch such as grass clippings for small areas, and around the base of plants. After we put a ton of cardboard down, we tossed some garden soil and grass clippings on top, and it's all getting rather weathered in after several months, and looking more like "soil", but still holding the weeds down and keeping the moisture in. I love it! Barbara...See Morepaulns
18 years agoveggiecanner
18 years agoKimmsr
18 years agodchall_san_antonio
18 years agopaulns
18 years agotrudi_d
18 years agopaulns
18 years ago
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