It's always hard to diagnose what exactly is causing something to happen-- that's why doctors need so many tests to confirm or refute their suspicions. I personally would depot and check the roots, especially on a newish plant. Some here think that's overkill, but it's fairly easy to slip it out of the pot. If it has big healthy roots, they grip the medium and there's no harm to the roots. You can usually just slip it back in its pot. If it's in unhealthy medium, you can repot in fresh medium. IMO, checking the roots is like a doctor listening to your heart and lungs. I always do that with a new plant, unless it has a huge blooming spike that would get bashed up. In which case I wait til the spike is getting ugly. This is because at least 1/4 or more of the new plants I've seen are in rotten old medium with fresh bark on top to freshen it up. I keep both gel and liquid rooting hormone around all the time in case a plant needs a little help. Since your spikes are yellowing, your flowers are essentially gone so you may as well check the overall health of the plant and repot into fresh medium if needed. Your office may be too cold for a phal. 65F should be a minimum, not a max. This is especially true if it just has overall office lighting.

WARNING: In an attempt to enlighten, the following post may/will quote and/or copy verbatim portions of text that are copyrighted by individuals and business concerns that in at least one instance are not native to the United States of America. The miscreant begs the forbearance of concerns local and abroad displeased or injured by his well meant actions. "Light is the only plant food. All the other things we give a plant are just to help it digest and use the light. The more light a plant gets the bigger and fatter it will become, provided all other needs are being met. If there is not enough light, nothing else will make the plant bigger or produce more." That quote comes from a British hydroponic gardening website which link was furnished by RP1, a regular contributor. I grabbed it because it says in one succinct paragraph everything I try to say in six. I couldn't help but notice this line from fatplants last post "I won't be able to keep them outside in the shade much longer because temps..." With the opening quote in mind, shade is an absence of light. It can be the total absence of light or it can be partial but usually it leans more to total than not, regardless of what it seems to our eyes. Porches are not good places to grow orchids unless carefully studied for light supply. That opaque 100% shade roof makes only the low angle early morning/late afternoon sun available and because of other structures nearby those light sources may be absent to some degree. FP also says that "it is a phal. I know I can easily maintain it's temp. requirements, not so much the others." Which others? Phals don't have particulary 'easy' temp requirements for Zone 7. Yes during the height of summer but not at any other time of year. Most any other orchid you can name will be more willing to poke along for months at typical household temps (~70F) than phalaenopsis. Mehitabel says, "With orchids, you're always having to make judgment calls on what conditions to provide. Decisions, decisions..." 'Aint that the truth. But allow me to offer some simplification: for much less money than a mini-GH one can buy and operate a small light fixture with a 42W CFL light in it and this will prove of much more utility in regrowing roots and keeping life in indoor plants of all kinds. Every few months another orchid grower goes out of business. If orchid growers would recognize and promote the value of indoor lighting the way they promote their wares the future of the hobby and by extension, their livelihoods would be much more robust. H

tab64, helpful and interesting comments about root die-off after repotting. Kent, rotting and shriveling up are a little different, and may have different causes. By "rot" I mean mushy and often stinky from bacteria. By shriveled, I mean desiccated, dried up. I mention that because the picture above might be showing both. Can't be sure because it's a little fuzzy. But I do see some dried-looking roots, and that could mean they aren't getting enough moisture from your dry mix. If you think that's what's going on, you may want to make your next watering a 20' soak, pot and all. The soak will re- hydrate the roots and the mix so it will be a little more water retentive. With such a dry mix, you may have to weight the pot down to keep it from floating. Phals do not like to be *wet*, but the roots should not be kept dry either. They want goldilocks condition, just moist. So a mix that stays too dry will dry the roots out. The newest, top root looks good. That's where your plant's long-term renewal and health will come from. Tab64's advice is good-- small bits of moist sphag near the good new root will keep the root humidified. Jane does this, too, especially in winter. I've found new roots often will grow right into the sphag on top of a mix. You don't mention your zone, but a north window isn't enough light to bloom a phal or to get good growth on it, either. An East, South or West window will be much better for it, especially as the winter comes on and the natural light fades. If you have an exposure other than North to put it in, you will help it thrive. Good luck.

Wanted to update how the orchid's doing now ... We managed to get the leaf to flip back right-side-up ... We actually set it up with a ribbon restraint for a bit (tied a ribbon between two skewer stakes to prevent it from flopping forward onto the new leaf that was coming up), and now it goes the correct direction and the new leaf is several inches long!