broadleaf weeds

11 years ago

Nothing easier than asking on Garden Web, and every effort has been instantly rewarded.

Had work in lawn, and ended up with subsoil of sand and clay as the surface, which I covered with rich soil from somewhere else on the property. Planted quick and quality grass seed, and it is doing great. Broadleaf weeds from the soil are mixed in. I know products exist to inhibit seeds from sprouting but is there a product I can use that will kill them but not the lawn grass?

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Comments (5)

kidhorn
11 years ago
Yes. There are selective herbicides. If you recently planted the seed, I wouldn't spray any kind of herbicide. Better to deal with it in the spring or fall. If you put down a weed and feed fertilizer that isn't crabgrass preventer, it will contain a non-selective herbicide.

I don't recommend using weed and feed because I feel it's stupid to put down herbicide all over your yard when only a few spots have weeds.

I don't use selective herbicides because, in general, they don't work nearly as well as non-selective. And there's no point in killing the weeds if you don't have any grass to put down in its place. If there's bare soil, another weed will soon fill it. What I do is in mid August, I get some roundup and kill the weeds and some grass dies as a casualty. A few weeks later, I clear the dead areas and put down grass seed. You can do the same in the spring, just move everything up 5 or so months.
dchall_san_antonio
11 years ago
Weed-B-Gone is one brand name of a selective broad leaf weed killer. It should work fine for you in NJ. I would wait, though for the new grass to become established. Next spring would be good. Selective spot spraying is better than granular materials. No weed-n-feed ever. Fertilize with fertilizer and kill weeds with weed killer.
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One reason in favor of plowing, tilling, or "drilling" seed is to bury it out of sight of seed eating birds. In nature the grasses have simply produced so much seed that the birds can't eat it all. When the herbivores come along and trample the seed onto the surface, there's traditionally been enough to go around. But for farmers trying to concentrate production of single crops, a few flocks of birds can cut into their profit. In 2014 I bought a house with a neglected yard. There was about 30 square feet of St Augustine and 7,300 square feet of weeds. It never entered my mind to till in organics or amendments. The weeds provide organic roots in the soil, so there is plenty of organic matter already there. Tilling would only stir up the roots and bury the surface plant tissue. The microbes necessary to decompose these parts of the plant are located where the plant parts normally live. When you rototill you're bringing the depth loving microbes to the surface and burying the surface loving microbes. What good does that do? I think we all understand that soil develops into a structure. What that means is the microbes that belong at depth populate at their depth stratum while the surface dwellers thrive where they are adapted. It also means the microbes cause the sand, silt, and clay particles to bond and align which allows capillary forces to move water around. Both water and air move in and out of the soil through these invisible channels. When you till the soil it destroys the channels and turns them into fluff. When you look down on it the soil takes on moisture in a different way. Rather than moving down deep into the soil, moisture clogs the soil at the surface with muck (technical term). It can take years to rebuild a soil structure, so the common practice of annual plowing or tilling simple prevents the soil from forming a good structure. Microbes never have a chance to populate in the numbers needed to create healthy soil and you're left with a soil depleted of organic matter. This is what they found in the cotton fields I mentioned earlier. The no-till cotton formed a micorhizal (fungal root) system that was much larger than the plants' actual root systems. The fungus attaches to the roots and sends hyphae (root like appendages) out many feet in all directions into the soil. The fungus and roots live symbiotically where the plant provides sugars to the fungus and the fungus provides moisture, NPK, and micronutrients to the roots. When the plant dies, gets pulled out, or plowed in, all that glorious symbiosis ends and has to start over with the next gen of plants.
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bogturtle
Original Author
11 years ago
knew I would get a quick response, but have not been able to
get back. Aside from some clover, the weeds will, likely, with mowing, not be able to survive. They are things like pigweed, etc, that I think the grass will crowd out.
pkapeckopickldpepprz
11 years ago
Weird thing is there is some kind of grassy type weed that has overtaken even the Bermuda. It sort of grown over it and smothered the Bermuda which I'm sure will still be there underneath, but the rhizomes of the weed have crowded out the Bermuda. It basically out Bermuda'ed the Bermuda. What type of weed/grass is this?
enigma7
11 years ago
Clover used to be my enemy as well. "Used to" being the important words. After trying everything (I used to pull the white flowers!), to raking and manually removing, to ripping out whole sections of lawn, I finally accepted my fate and went chemical.

Ortho Weed B Gon Chickweed Clover Killer was a game-changer. The concentrate is cheap (under $15), you mix a small amount in a gallon or two of water and spray with a backpack or bottle sprayer, and in about 2 weeks it just disappears, touching nothing else. It really is magic. But it does take much longer than most weed killers so just give it time. If after 2 weeks you still have some you can reapply, but I've personally never needed it more than once.

Pkapeckopickldpepperz, I think you posted in the wrong thread, but here's my recommendation for you: Without pictures my guess is nimblewill. This stuff is amazing at quickly choking out the wanted grass. There is an expensive but very selective agent that takes care of it exclusively (Tenacity), and I've personally used it to great effect, but it is not cheap (and not able to be used in all lawn types). Post a picture or do some detailed internet searching to determine EXACTLY what the weed is before selecting a treatment option.

HTH

broadleaf weeds

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kidhorn

dchall_san_antonio

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broadleaf weeds

Comments (5)

kidhorn

dchall_san_antonio

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bogturtleOriginal Author

pkapeckopickldpepprz

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bogturtle
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