SHOP PRODUCTS
Houzz Logo Print
peter_6

Excess Zinc and Boron

peter_6
14 years ago

My recent soil test shows good nutrient levels except zinc at 20 ppm (2005 - 15 ppm) and boron at 4 ppm (2005 - also 4 ppm). These are much too high. At different times I have applied kelp meal and granite meal to provide trace minerals, as well as city compost and rock phosphate. Does any one have a clue as to who the culprit or culprits could be? I may be driven to foregoing all af them for the next four years. I do plan to apply some gypsum however to provide more calcium to balance out the potash and magnesium, which are both a little high. Regards, Peter.

Comments (42)

  • gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
    14 years ago

    Re: the excessive boron levels, the attached link may be helpful. At least to understand the possible reasons and ways to mitigate. FWIW, the author is associated with the leading soil testing lab in this area.

    I can't offer much help with the zinc but I might want to investigate the irrigation water available. Both boron and zinc can be found in high levels in water depending on source and runoff. Have you tested your water supply?

    Here is a link that might be useful: Boron

  • dchall_san_antonio
    14 years ago

    It's important to know where you are. If you live in Boron, California, then the culprit might be God.

    When you say you're going to add gypsum to balance out the potassium and magnesium, do you know how much to add? Did your soil test include a salt balance test?

  • Related Discussions

    Root crop and boron

    Q

    Comments (1)
    If your soil is low in boron and only a soil test can tell you, It might help. An excess of boron is very detrimental however, so use extreme caution when using Borax. A soluble fertizer that contains the trace nutrients may be more appropriate. Usually, radishes not forming is due to 1. high soil temperature and 2. overcrowding.
    ...See More

    Boron Spray or Soil Application

    Q

    Comments (15)
    Stick with a foliar application after getting a leaf analysis done to see if you need anything. It looks to me like your soil test is reflective of adding large quantities of manure--most nutrients are very high, and many nutrients can act as substitutes. High levels of one nutrient can result in a deficiency of another in the plant, not because the nutrient is lacking but because another is present in such high levels that the plant takes it up in excess instead, leaving a deficiency. I've had personal experience with this in my garden. After applying large quantities of manure for several years, my soil tests showed nutrient levels were all very high, my pH came down a few tenths (mid 7's instead of high 7's to low 8's), and I started developing symptoms of zinc deficiency even though the soil test showed it was "very high" in the soil. A shot of foliar zinc cleared up the problem and I backed off on the manure. After that, my salt levels declined dramatically, also. Your soil calcium levels are good and the boron levels are right where you want them, so any deficiency is probably due to an uptake problem. As said, boron can become very toxic very quickly. I would never add boron to the soil at a rate higher than 2 lbs/acre because of the risk of getting too much--at a presence of 4lbs/ac. in the soil, you would be killing it. Manure tends to be very high in salts from the urine and your sodium levels are fairly high. You should continue to hold off on manure applications for a few years and make sure the soil is well watered when watered to help wash the sodium out through natural drainage. All the organics you added will decay over time and you will need to add soil or additional organic matter (leaves, grass clippings, compost, etc) to keep the soil level up. If you continually add a lot of organics, the organic component of the soil will increase due to the higher supply. If you stop, it will decrease over time to natural levels based on how much vegetative matter normally falls on or grows in the soil. Natural topsoil will run from a few inches to several feet thick. Under that, you get a mineral soil based on what nature provided. I wouldn't worry about a yellowish sand several feet down. The plants are getting most of their nutrients from the top foot, and the sand may help provide drainage.
    ...See More

    Low boron

    Q

    Comments (13)
    Another thing to consider is the fact that many of the water sources (municipal and well) all up and down the west coast contain plenty of boron to satisfy plant nutritional requirements for that element. If you've got more than 0.3 ppm boron in the irrigation water, you won't have to add any. Think "liquid feed program". This is especially true in a heavy soil. 3 ppm is the desired level, according to his paradigm. All tests I have seen have been well below 1 ppm. Make sure you know what analytical method you're dealing with when using that number. 3 ppm extractable boron via Meilich 3, DTPA or other extraction may be fine. 3 ppm soluble boron via saturation extract (which is a very common way to measure boron) would burn a broad range of stuff. In saturation extract, boron should be less than 1 ppm for most stuff and less than 0.8 for sensitive plants. About 0.12 ppm in the soil would be sufficient for most plants.
    ...See More

    help interperting soil test results. excess calcium and potassium

    Q

    Comments (12)
    the weeds that I have won't be slowed down at all by weed cloth or cardboard. I have tried both in the past. Tried even commercial weed cloth. Using something like rubber or tin is the ONLY way to keep this highly invasive grass from consuming the entire beds. The grass would grow up from the bottom and take over the whole bed within two years time. This stuff is BAD. so far, it seems that they are draining fine. We have had some pretty heavy rains and I dug down into the beds and found nice moist loose soil. No packed mud, no pooling. This is going to have to work. There is no option. one year I set up an above ground pool, with a ground cloth under it. Within two months, the nut grass grew thru the bottom of the pool. if you have never had to deal with these two weeds you just can't imagine how invasive and resilient they are.
    ...See More
  • peter_6
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    gardengal48: thanks for the water idea; I shall check it out. I water from a well; I didn't water this year, but used lots in prior years.
    dchall: 1. I live in southeast Michigan; what does this say to you? 1. The lab recommended 750#s, which I translate to 1 3/4 #s per 100 sq.ft bed. But if they hadn't, I might just have had to work it out from the base saturation percentages. 3. No salt balance test -- it's unusual here. Now I think about it, I need a little more salt because this year's tomatoes tasted a little bland. I hope these answers give you a clue on the boron and, especially, the zinc. Regards, Peter.

  • Kimmsr
    14 years ago

    What is the level of organic matter in your soil?

  • peter_6
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    kimmsr: 7.8%. Does this suggest an approach to the problem? Regards, Peter.

  • Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
    14 years ago

    I used to live in a town with excessive boron in the well water, which was brutal for some plants. Nothing helped except not planting certain plants. OM levels made not one iota of difference.

    Dan

  • Kimmsr
    14 years ago

    There are some studies out there that indicate adequate levels of Organic Matter in soils help keep plant from uptaking some nutrients that are too high. I'm thinking there might be something about that in "Building Soils for Better Crops" but at 241 pages that may take some time. I'm also aware the there are studies the appear to dispute that contention but those I have seen did not have adequate levels of orgnaic matter in the soil.

    Here is a link that might be useful: BSBC

  • Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
    14 years ago

    Davis, CA may have one of the highest ratios of LArch/horticulture:laypeople in the U.S. Boron is a big problem in that town.

    The diligent efforts of the hippies in the domes, the successful gardeners in their homes, and the findings in the tomes find no relief from boron by adding OM to the soil. Unless there is something very new that I missed.

    Dan

  • Kimmsr
    14 years ago

    Adequate levels of organic matter in soils is known to tie up, bind up, excess Aluminum, buffer your soils pH, and do other amazing things so while I've not seen anything specific about Boron there is no reason to doubt that asequate levels of OM would not also tie up that micronutrient.

  • Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
    14 years ago

    there is no reason to doubt that asequate levels of OM would not also tie up that micronutrient.

    Sure there is. I explained a specific case above. To reitierate: despite the wish of some, excess boron in the soil is not ameliorated by the efforts of a legion of talented, knowledgeable gardeners addiing OM in a place with high boron in the water.

    One must also define "adequate", as the OP's soil cannot be considered as having an inadequate OM %age, yet there is a B problem.

    Dan

  • gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
    14 years ago

    When researching this question initially, I seem to recall reading about a relationship between boron and OM. Interestingly, it was included in the link I provided earlier :-)

    In mineral soils, release of boron is usually quite slow. Much of the available soil boron is held rather tightly by soil organic material. As organic matter decomposition occurs, boron is released with a portion being absorbed by plants, leached below the root zone area (especially in high rainfall/acid soil areas) or tied up (unavailable) under alkaline soil conditions.

    So if I am interpreting this correctly, boron IS bound by OM but as that OM decomposes, the boron is released. It still does not indicate that adding OM will ameliorate the problem of excessive boron concentration, only perhaps delay its release and uptake.

  • peter_6
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Interestingly, between 2005 and 2009, soil organic matter increased, while boron ppm was unchanged. Does anyone know anything about zinc, which worries me more? Regards, Peter.

  • Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
    14 years ago

    That is because OM does not really buffer B, as it is an ~easily exchangeable anion. Again, I used to live in a place that had high B in the water and many plants suffered, and adding OM never helped in that place.

    You won't like your plants responding to B toxicity, but you are correct that Zn could be a bigger problem. What is your pH there?

    Dan

  • organicdan
    14 years ago

    Check out this Rutgers link. The excesses do have bearing for those plant sensitive to the toxicity effects. Phosphorus levels, pH and use of leaf compost have potential to aid in adjusting. If good drainage exists then a period of heavy watering may leach excesses; a strong likihood that a lot of other nutrients would leach in the process. Certainly no easy solution.
    Good luck.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Micronutrients

  • novice_2009
    14 years ago

    Okay, stupid question from a newbie who wants to learn:
    Why would excess levels of zinc and boron be bad?
    What would the effect be on plants?
    What are natural sources of these two minerals?
    TIA!

  • Kimmsr
    14 years ago

    A little too much Boron in the soil can cause plants to die, that is why some people mistakenly suggested spraying some "weeds" with Borax without understanding that the excess Boron would poison the soil those "weeds" were growing in.
    Too much Zinc in the soil can cause plants to not be able to uptake, or properly utilize, Iron and Magnesium.

  • gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
    14 years ago

    Excess levels of any of the plant macro and micronutrients can be bad - nutrients in excessively high levels affect the plant's ability to access and assimilate other nutrients, so the plant suffers in health and vigor. Often, too high levels of one nutrient will bind or make unavailable other nutrients. Excessive levels of some may also encourage insect and disease problems. That's why you will often see cautions that over- or improper fertilizing can create more problems for plants than under-fertilizing. There is an optimum range of nutrient concentrations that plants require to grow well and produce fruit or flowers - too little will affect growth as will too much. That's why it is a good idea to have at least a base soil test done to see what those current nutrient levels are and how you may need to adjust them. Different plants will react to lower/higher levels of specific nutrients differently and again, results of soil tests will recommend appropriate levels depending on the types of plants you intend to grow.

    This is a bit of an over-simplification......nutrient management is a rather complex subject and there are many other factors that can come into play as well - soil type, soil pH, irrigation water quality, etc. - but generally home gardeners do not need to over worry this issue. Peter's situation is somewhat unusual :-)

    I've included a link to an extension service tutorial that explains nutrient deficiencies and toxicity rather well. Keep in mind that it may be addressing very regional soil conditions as a variable and recommendations may be swayed accordingly but the basic info is sound.

    FWIW, both boron and zinc are naturally occurring minerals found in all soils, usually in some sort of chemical compounds or ore. Boron tends to be a rather uncommon element and is typically present in very low levels.

    Here is a link that might be useful: nutrient management

  • Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
    14 years ago

    I didn't see the link above describing B toxicity. Our plants would have burned leaf edges and eventually abscission, poor flowering, stunted growth and low vigor overall. I've never seen Zn toxicity except where we made it in the lab.

    I remember a tupelo outside one building that was stunted and never turned a good fall color, and several perennial spp. that always looked ratty and rarely flowered.

    Dan

  • gargwarb
    14 years ago

    I've seen zinc toxicity a few times, but only in nursery containers. Although I've never seen it happen with zinc at less than 150 ppm or a pH of greater than 5.2.
    Boron toxicity can be tricky. Some of the common symptoms you're describing Dan, are right on the money but the tricky part is where they show up. Boron is immobile in many plants and in those cases, toxicity symptoms will show up on older growth. But it's mobile in other plants and will show up on new growth.
    It's also funny because it can cause copy-cat symptoms like small spots of necrosis that drop right out of stone fruit leaves and looks a whole heck of a lot like "shot hole".
    I don't really have a point so I'll stop typing now.

  • Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
    14 years ago

    Some of the common symptoms you're describing Dan, are right on the money but the tricky part....

    You are kind enough to write about my excess boron, not excess moron. ;o)

    Dan

  • gargwarb
    14 years ago

    The information you gave was 100% right. I just felt like tacking a little moron.....uh... more on.

    Sorry buddy, you bumped and set so I had to spike. It's the law of the internet. ;P

  • Dan _Staley (5b Sunset 2B AHS 7)
    14 years ago

    Sorry buddy, you bumped and set so I had to spike.

    Had I known an emoticon for bump & set, I'd have typed it.

    Dan

  • peter_6
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Dan: you asked about pH: it's 7.3 on the basic test and 6.8 on the available test. Does this suggest anything to you? (By the way, I never understood why there would be more hydrogen on the available test than on the basic test. Why on earth [sorry about that] would this be?) Regards, Peter.

  • organicdan
    14 years ago

    Interesting excess, and likely a result of your geology. Had a quick look at a hydrology map and note the prominent presence of clay and silt.

    The OM% appears within the suggested range for clay soils. What was reported for your CEC (cation exchange capacity) and specifics under Base Saturation?

    Were there any specific nutrients rated as high or low?

    It is interesting to compare soil test reports and the influences of regional soil differences, rainfall, etc. It is also noted that differing testing methods provide diverse results. You really need a vast knowledge of soil sciences to make heads or tails of some tests; and the lab methods.

    Generally boron one of the leached trace elements. An excess would suggest that a subsoil drainage block. It is unlikely that any simple remedy will answer.

    More details of the total analysis report may guide my thoughts and research.

  • peter_6
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    Dan: the report is a bit long to relay in its entirety, but here are some highlights:
    c.e.c: 21.1; K: 4.1%, Mg: 17.6%, Ca: 78.3%.
    Nitrate: 80, Ammonia: 4, available phosphorus: 460 lbs.
    S: 24, Zn: 20, Mn: 37, Fe: 66, Cu: 2.5, B: 4 ppm.
    Three points: 1. this isn't a clay soil; we are on the border between clay and sand, so we have a nice loam. 2. Re. your geology point: what concerns me is that zinc has increased, from 15 four years ago. 3. Although the base saturation numbers look fine, remember the high c.e.c., which means the potash (818 lbs.) is really in excess.
    Do you supose that the increased zinc more likely came fron granite dust, rock phosphate, kelp meal, or city compost -- all of wich have been appled from time to time, but certainly not every year. Regards, Peter.

  • organicdan
    14 years ago

    Peter, I really find this a challenge and intrigued in most soil science investigations. The revealing of zinc increase and boron excess are surprising since most often in reduced supply as trace elements. I fear that there may be local influences beyond control. Likely a deposit or input source feeds into the ground water; natural soil solution percolation brings it to surface waters. It may be something your local extension services can give answer to.

    A potential remedy is negated by your provided data. An agronomy library article "Calcium in Soil" in the 'interaction' section indicates that high soil calcium inhibits boron uptake and utilization. Your CEC calcium is above suggested percentage range range and likely (unidentified in analysis) also high. The input source increases seem less at fault unless applied in high excess or applied too often. Ground source seems most likely.

    It is noted that you did not indicate toxicity symptoms in you opening post. Could it be that the analysis alone has pointed out the high zinc and boron? Perhaps the high OM% and calcium are working at limiting the B uptake.

    The high CEC (21.1) is tied to higher clay component and K+ cation prominence in the available potassium level.

    You may be better served in understanding the total nutrient picture by speaking with a local expert.

    Thanks for broadening my appreciation of soil analysis results in different regions.

  • maifleur01
    14 years ago

    One thing to find out regarding the Zinc is has there ever been any lead mining in your area. I seem to remember a small part of Michigan had mines. If you are in that area then zinc occurs naturally with lead.

  • gargwarb
    14 years ago

    I have no clue what is meant by "basic" pH vs. "available" pH. I've never heard of pH reported that way. Are you sure it's not active and buffer?
    Either way, zinc at 20 ppm is nothin' I tells ya, nothin'. Even if your active acidity is 6.8, zinc could be at least 5 times that and you would be fine.
    The boron level may or may not be a problem, depending on where that number came from.
    4.0 ppm measured in saturation extract = bad.
    4.0 ppm extracted via Mehlich 3 or DTPA = may not be a big deal.
    It's the soluble boron that will give you problems, which gets picked up in saturation extract. Boron that you measure after pulling it off the exchange sites of the colloids with a more aggressive extraction, but does not go into solution readily won't result in toxicity problems for plants. However, both soluble and insoluble boron will show up in the Mehlich 3 and DTPA extract. Hence the "may not" be a problem rather than "It's for sure not a problem".

  • gargwarb
    14 years ago

    And just a side note: I'm betting that your active pH is the alkaline number because your base forming cations add up to 100%. If the soil was even slightly acidic, then at least some of the exchange would be occupied by hydrogen and, naturally, the base forming cations would add up to less than 100%.
    Also, you can get a rather high CEC in a loam or sandy loam with lots of organic matter. I'm not saying that's the case here. Without actual particle distribution data, It's impossible to know the clay content. I'm just sayin' is all.
    On a side - side note: granite dust, kelp meal and city compost are all potential sources of zinc. It's impossible to say the zinc addition of any one of those without an analysis since zinc content can vary in all of those sources.
    You also mentioned zinc increased over the years. By how much and was zinc extracted the same way in both tests? If not, you're comparing apples to oranges (see above).
    I only ask because it might be worth finding out where the zinc is coming from if there really is a big increase happening. But allow me to reiterate, based on your current chemistry, you don't have a zinc problem.
    Okay, I'm done now.

  • peter_6
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    I say again, this isn't clay soil: indirect evidence, c.e.c was 10.8 1n 2000, and is now 21.1 -- the increase can only have come from added organic material. The zinc readings are from the same tester: A&L Great Lakes. And there wasn't lead mining -- this is Bloomfield Township, for those familiar with the area. Thanks for all the suggestions though. Regards, Peter.

  • pagardner
    14 years ago

    Hi All, but wouldn't a folliar test prove out any zinc-boron excess? A&L probably does that test too. Proof's in the pudding they say. My 2 cents. Best regards to all.

  • gargwarb
    14 years ago

    c.e.c was 10.8 1n 2000, and is now 21.1 -- the increase can only have come from added organic material.
    Okay, I'll buy that.

    You never said how much the zinc increased or how it was extracted (again, this is just for giggles because I guarantee you don't have a zinc toxicity problem). I'm also still wondering how boron was extracted. It should say on the data sheet what method was used or the lab can answer that question. It makes a big difference in how the data is interpreted.
    Pagardner - yes, if there are symptoms showing, tissue analysis is a good way to confirm whether or not those or other elements are an issue. However, the OP hasn't mentioned any problems with plants. Without any symptoms, I wouldn't spend the money testing healthy tissue collected from plants that perform well. It's also pretty easy to get tripped up with tissue analysis. All of the reference data is based on particular tissue collected at a particle point in development. If you get the wrong tissue and compare it to the reference data, it can look like you have excesses and deficiencies that aren't really there.

  • peter_6
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    gargwarb: zinc inceased to 20 ppm from 15 four years ago. I should comment that all my mineral levels are high (does anyone else have 6600 lbs of calcium?); I don't plan to add anything except gypsum (does that contain zinc?) for a while; and I shall compost all weeds and crop residues as normal, but not use the compost myself. Regards, Peter.

  • novice_2009
    14 years ago

    wow. reading these posts i just got a lesson in chemistry that made my head spin. thanks guys, as I did understand and learn a few things though!

  • gargwarb
    14 years ago

    I wouldn't worry about an increase from 15 to 20 ppm. In fact, remember that you are testing a handful of soil to represent tons of soil and there is variability throughout. You could collect two samples from the same planter on the same day, send them in, and get 5 ppm worth of variability in zinc between the two, just because no soil is uniform.
    As far a calcium goes, I'm assuming that 6600 lbs. is "per acre", which would be 3300 ppm. That's really not unusually high. However, you don't need any more. I mean, heck, it's taking up 78% of the exchange. Also consider the fact that you just added a bunch of calcium with your lime applications. Lime isn't super soluble and will dissolve very slowly, acting as a slow release calcium source for quite some time.
    Which brings me to gypsum. The primary benefit you get from gypsum is more calcium. If I were you, I'd save my money and effort and not add it until there's a need.

  • peter_6
    Original Author
    14 years ago

    gargwarb: about calcium, sorry I didn't make myself clear; I certainly don't need any more calcium, but I do want to reduce potassium and magnesium, so I push more calcium onto the colloid to knock off those two. This is based on a notion (possibly mistaken) that "base saturation" means that the colloidal soil particles are always fully occupied -- with something. Regards, Peter.

  • gargwarb
    14 years ago

    You're actually correct about all the exchange sites being occupied. Your idea of knocking cations off with other cations is also a good one.
    However you already have a total calcium to total potassium ratio of 8 to 1.
    A lot of people get very worked up and say that the nutrients always have to be "in balance". Others get very worked up saying that the balance never matters as long as everything is present at sufficient levels. I think the truth lies somewhere in between. But, by anyone's standards, you have plenty of calcium for nutritional purposes and to balance potassium. What is your total magnesium value?

  • pnbrown
    13 years ago

    Peter, what has been the outcome of all this since a full growing season?

    I just had several plots tested at umass (saturation) and getting some more done at a different lab (mehlich 3). Boron is very low around here, as makes sense with well-drained soils. One field tested zero. My home garden has very high P, Ca and Mg. K is a little low. Zinc is 7.3.

    A soil workshop I am attending says that B should be a lot higher than generally recommended, in fact most of the traces tend to be too low they say, especially manganese which should be 80-90 ppm. Sulfur should be higher than the land-grants recommend, really everything except N which tends too be far too much applied.

  • Michael
    13 years ago

    Just to drive one quick point home, lot's of people think about what they are or not adding to their soils with very good intentions and forethought, that's great. However, based on what I have read in many posts since first joining GW, few people give any thought to their irrigation water, big mistake, have your irrigation water tested or, if it is a municipal source, get a free copy of your water's analysis from your municipality. Water quality can even differ vastly from wells a matter of feet away, make no assumptions.

    And lastly, be grateful you don't have my soil/water/arid climate combination, it can be a real pain in the hind end. I spent part of this afternoon shoveling snow from the area outside the orchard to the tree's drip lines, it really is that bad!

  • peter_6
    Original Author
    13 years ago

    pnbrown: no observable difference in results, but I do think I have gone overboard on traces. Regards, Petr.

  • jolj
    13 years ago

    pnbrown, I do not know anything about high boron levels, so no post on what is or what should be.
    I have learned more then I will every need to know about high level of boron, hopefully.
    One mor..on question.
    Did raised beds with OUT surface soil mixed in, help the problem?