You need to find some complete cultivation instructions that relate to the climate where you live in the United States.

Google Phalaenopsis cultivation or Phalaenopsis growing.

There is lots of information in past threads about Phalaenopsis on this site. To find them put Phalaenopsis in the Search box at the top of the Discussions page.

Yes, orchids only flower once and then they should be promptly disposed of, because they will never bloom again. The only way to make an orchid flower is to bath it under the light of a new moon, drench it with mashed up worms and water from your fish tank, and chant a secret mantra that only expert orchid growers know.

Just joking :) I believe you have a phalaenopsis (at least that's the only P stone dance I could find), which is what the 'P.' stands for. There are many species and hybrids of orchids which come from a wide range of habitats, from Brazil to Australia, from jungles in India to some lab in Taiwan. Similar to how you wouldn't plant a cactus in a water garden, or a water lily in a sand bed, there are specific cultural guidelines for all the commonly available types. Try googling 'phalaenopsis care' and you will find a lot of good information. Good luck!

It will flower again. Usually they bloom once a year and flower for a long time. Between they make a very nice house plant.

When you water, use lots of water, then none at all until the next time. No ice cubes, no misting. Look for information on the 'pencil test' for watering. Give it eastern light if possible. If you have experience with African Violets, conditions for a Phal are similar.

Alicev, read the thread titled Orchid Identification & Care. It's further down this page. The orchid is a phal and there are replies with good tips & direct links to click on for care tips.

Shame on that grower for saying you can throw it away and get another. The phalaenopsis is not a difficult orchid to grow, as Richard said if you can grow AV, you can grow/rebloom a phal. Good luck with your plant.

Sheila :)

Okay, I've read the Orchid Identification & Care and some online stuff and I'm confused. Salt bathes, moss, light and all the other things I'm suppose to do seems a bit much. I've never grown AV and I hate house plants. I can grow most anything outside, but I always seem to kill house plants.

Can someone dumb down what I'm suppose to do? How much water, do I need to re-pot and how, and is indirect light enough?

Also how long are they suppose to flower for? Mine lasted 3 weeks before they all fell off.

First thing is where in the US are you? There is outside and outside. For example outside here is certain death while it might be fine for Phals part or whole of the year in some parts of the USA. The flowers should last more than a month. Nothing wrong with discarding the plant once the flowers are finished. I tell non orchid growers at orchid shows that they are buying a cheap bunch of flowers....it is not a crime to discard the plant once blooming has finished.

Here is a set of notes written for a climate similar to say San Diego.

These notes relate to Phalaenopsis culture in the Sydney area. These orchids cannot be grown outside in the yard or in a shade-house because winter minimum temperatures are too low and some summer maximum temperatures are too high. These temperature problems plus low humidity mean that special housing to meet Phalaenopsis needs is required, or the plants should be grown inside your home.

Culture within the home

Finding the place to put the plant
The plant needs bright light, humidity levels of about 60% and temperatures where both you and the plant will be comfortable. That rules out one place that is often suggested, the bathroom. Another place that is a not good is one of those small closed in sunrooms where dry winter air is heated and the humidity levels are too low.
My plants are on the windowsill of a large airy kitchen. Winter temperatures range from about 12C to 18C each day and a fibreglass blind protects the plants from all but a few hours of gentle sun in winter.
Do not expose the plant to direct sunlight because the leaves of the plant will burn. Early morning sun is best, but late afternoon sun is also OK provided it is screened as described above.

Humidity
Some people recommend spraying the plants with water every day to raise humidity. This is not necessary because the humidity level in most homes is about 60%.
You may wish to place the plant on a humidity tray containing pebbles and water. This is not necessary either, but will not cause harm, provided the bottom of the pot is not sitting in water.

Watering
Frequency depends on the potting material and the atmosphere in the house but as a general guide once a week in winter grading to two or three times a week in summer. Potting material should be kept moist but not sopping wet.

Fertilizing
Use complete liquid fertilizer with every third watering, but only at half the prescribed strength. Wet the foliage as well.

Repotting
Every two years in late spring. Use specially prepared orchid bark, not Cymbidium mix. Try not to disturb the live roots too much, cut off any old dead roots and just replace some of the older bark. Do not be in hurry to put in plant in a larger pot, because like most orchids, the plants seem to do better in a slightly pot-bound condition. Do not worry about some roots growing outside the pot. This is a good sign.

Treatment of flowering stem
When the flowers are nearly finished, you can cut the stem off just below the lowest flower and the plant may produce a new flowering shoot from the node just below the cut.

Making the plant flower
The plant should produce a new flowering stem in autumn as the temperatures drop or in early spring as temperatures rise. Some growers induce flowering by watering the plant with Epsom salts (Magnesium Sulfate) once a week several times in autumn or spring. The amount of Epsom salts required is one tablespoon full in a bucket of water.

Pests and diseases
Your plant should remain pest and disease free in the home environment. Fungus disease that shows up as black spots on the leaves is a symptom of over-watering, cut back on the watering a bit and seek help from a nursery or garden centre if the problem persists.

If you hate houseplants, and don't want to learn, follow the grower's instructions and throw it out. Phals flower once a year when grown properly, but it's prospects for reflowering seem pretty dim to me.

Phals flower for months, but who knows how long it had been flowering before you got it.

If you don't like house plants, then don't keep this one. Someone you know may want it, or possibly an organization. In our area we have OrchidMania where orchids are rehabilitated and sold for charity.

I hate houseplants becuase I always kill them and few seem to be anything but leaves anyways. This one was actually pretty, so yes I hate to throw it away. My husband says he will care for it if he knows how.

I was wondering if it had been in bloom for awhile before getting it. I just wanted to know what I should expect out of it. It is still a better deal than a bouquet of flowers and longer lasting. If all else fails I'll give it to someone else.

Houses are designed for the comfort and needs of humans and the term "houseplant", I have discovered, is an oxymoron. Plants can indeed be grown in the home and grown well and many here do just that, however, it is the rare home that has the right conditions without modification. This is why you have been advised to let the orchid go to a good home if , in the past, your success with 'houseplants' has been elusive. Regardless of what you have heard or read, the minimum investment you will need to make if you actually want to re-bloom that orchid is a plant lamp. Maybe that will be all you need. They can be very inexpensive. But without that minimal investment there can not be sucess. Windows are simply too unreliable a source of light energy.

H

"Windows are simply too unreliable a source of light energy."

That's odd. My picture window facing SSW has been very reliable for over 50 years.

Howard, you should have waited a few more days for a more dramatic return on the day of the summer solstice!

--Stitz--

Welcome back Howard - been a while...back in NYC?!

I have good success with windows...just not during the winter!

Howard ~ How can you say such a thing?! I do not now, nor have I ever owned a plant light/lamp of any kind (and I don't use epsom salts). My phals bloom every year, and so far have increased in flower number &/or size with each successive blooming. My phals sit, year around, 10 to 18 or 20" from a sliding glass door with an ESE or SSE exposure. I screen or adjust them in winter, so that the sun doesn't burn the leaves.

Alice ~ you don't have to say where you live, but knowing your USDA gardening zone (or Sunset zone in California) would help forum members help you.

If you don't want to grow and rebloom your phal, and your husband is willing to do so, that would be great; no? Just print up the cultural information that has been shared, referenced, and linked, and turn it all over to him--or send it to his computer. And remember to tell him about the GardenWeb.com Orchid Forum.

Who knows? Maybe next spring you'll have a whole room full of orchids : ) Oh; and regarding how long the blooming lasts: my last phal is just finishing up 4 full months of bloom--they can hold forth for quite a long time.

Sweetcicely
P.S. You can find some good Phal repotting instructions with pictures at the linked site below.

Here is a link that might be useful: How to repot a Phalaenopsis

Welcome back Howard but please do not be a one trick pony. Many many people grow orchids with window light only and are quite successful.

When the orchid collection expands beyong a windowsill and they need additional light, you will be the man.

Brooke

I know it may not seem like it but I consider the initial post when I respond. The o.p. has not had good success in the past using window light to grow regular houseplants let alone orchids. I stand by my comments. Rather than always seeking to discredit the idea of using supplemental light those of you who do have the kinds of windows that treat your plants well should be grateful and live and let live. There really are more homes that are not great or even good places to grow plants unaided than the other way round.

H

I'm in Tennessee.

I do get a lot of light in my home when all the curtains are drawn back. I had the orchid in the main living area where all the windows face East and South. I didn't have it sitting in a window though.

If it's not to complicated to keep it and I'll get blooms again, then I'll keep it and my husband can care for it.

Alice,

Your Zone in Tennessee will be somewhere between 6a and 7a on the USDA chart linked below.

Growing your Phal won't be as complicated as it sounds. As with everything else, you take one step at a time. Your plan sounds like a good one, and you have plenty of information to get you and your husband started.

Remember to have your Phal situated close to the window where it can collect bright, indirect light; and where, in the fall, it will experience that 20 degree drop in day to night temperature that prompts it to spike.

Here's wishing you blooms for next winter/spring!

Sc

Here is a link that might be useful: Hardiness Zones in Southeastern US

Alright, maybe some excitement brewing on the board.

Welcome back H!!!

I tend to agree with Howard also, I bet many more homes/apartments/etc have poor light for growing orchid than have 'good' light.

I wonder how many people have given up on orchids because they didn't have enough natural light via windows?

Obviously the ones with good natual indoor light are still growing and commenting.

I for one am in the poor light category. Many east windows, but I have trees blocking most of that light, one really good south facing window that gets a huge catt every winter, 1 decent west facing double wide window but the wife won't let me use if for growing the 'kids.

Let's let Howard have his fun and preach the light.

BTW: I think the Stitz's summer soltice comment was great ;-)

Bob

We've actually had several good informative light discussions since Howard disappeared. We have many people using and growing under lights. And even better, many people successfully growing Phals on windowsills.

Unless Howard secretly knows alicev and her particular situation, suggesting she needs a plant light is a little early in the relationship. All she had shared with us is she hates houseplants and kills them.

Sweetie has given alicej a link for repotting, she can put it on the east windowsill, water when almost dry and enjoy the plant.

Brooke

Thank you, Bob, for your enlightened appreciation of my comment!

--Stitz--

Brooke,

Those light discussions have been weak at best from my recollection.

How did you know that Alicev had good enough east window light to grow orchids? If anythng, she indicates (by not being able to grow houseplants) that she struggles with this. H read this into her original post and nailed it in his second post.

Alicev did state that she had 'good' light after H's 2nd post and your first post with the 'one trick pony' comment.

Let the man be, he is good for this forum.

IMO, at least H's comment will give her a better chance for success, all things considered.

Other than the $ investment, what could supplying more light hurt?

I absolutely agree with H, if you are going to grow 'kids in your house, more likely than not, you'll need supplemental lighting.

Bob

I'll have to respectfully disagree, Bob. There is not enough information to make that kind of absolute assertion, and while it is entirely appropriate to suggest that supplemental lighting may be helpful, the absolute conviction that artificial lighting is necessary is just presumptuous.

I think it's foolish to assume absolutes when 1) we're talking about living plants, with which absolutely correct ways of growing don't exist (just absolutely wrong ways), and 2) all the information we have from the OP is derived from 4 short posts, the rest of which has been extrapolated based upon interpretation!

Mix this with a healthy dose of idolization and a bit of logical fallacy (you're either *with* the 'enlightened' ones, or you're AGAINST us!) and you get these fabulously entertaining threads. I mean come on her previous house plant failures could be due to 99 other thingsÂone of which could very well BE light levels. But to use this as unfailing evidence that she NEEDS artificial lighting or her orchid growing is doomed is just bogus. 80% of growers in my orchid society have at least one phal which sits in a window sill all year around, with no artificial lighting.

Sigh, so much for slipping unoticed back into the dorm after curfew... a solstice return just would not be my style, whatever that might be. Thanks though for the words of welcome back. To be 'back' though implies that one was gone :-). I'm not back in NYC, how could you wish such a thing on me, Calvin? I will be the first to admit there is something 'pure' about being able to use nothing but an East or South window to grow houseplants (and orchids become houseplants when grown indoors) and cheapskate that I am, if windows alone could cut it I would use them. As Bob points out, even with a 'good' window, the addition of a plant-light does no harm and will definitely add a bloom or few to a spike. Easily the difference between an ok bloom event and an award. I'm not competitive that way but some are. Anyway, I'll probably have way less time for this forum now than in the past. I don't deliberately set out to annoy or start controversy, just to help. E-mails tell me that I do and have helped. If that becomes not the case I'll stop. Promise.

H

Calvin,

This is fun ;-)

I said I absolutely agreed with H, not that you absolutely need supplemental lighting. I stated 'more than likely you'll need supplemental lighting when growing in the house'.

I still believe that the reason most people struggle with the 'kids is because of bad watering habits and/or a lack of light.

Bob

Bob - please start at the top and count down 16 posts and you will find alicev states she has east and south windows AFTER Howard tells her she needs a plant light and before I suggest she sit the plant on an east windowsill.

I don't think the term struggle was used by alicev but the terms hates and kills houseplants was used. There are many ways to kill a plant even when it is given the recommended light.

As I said welcome back Howard but light isn't always the answer to everything.

Sorry Bob you missed some of the informative light threads since Howard disappeared - see if you can search for them - they might not have fallen off the board yet. If you mean the threads where deClara and her alter ego gee_willikers blew smoke up the dark recesses of the chief enlightened one, those have fallen off the board - except for the ones I captured.

Brooke

No ill-wishes intended, Howard! I just made my first visit to NYC 3 weeks ago and had a blast...but I can definitely see how it could be an unfortunate place to live, although all I've really seen is downtown Manhattan. Looks like Toronto except 1000 times bigger and 'better'

I love (peaceful) controversy and arguing - it's one of my favorite things to do next to growing orchids, so it's always a pleasure to be given the chance. It's also fun to see every side of the folks here - how much can you really learn from people if all you ever hear from them is "don't cut the spike off...check out the faq"?

There hasn't been one interesting discussion on anything since Howard and others left. Makes Brooke nervous seeing an old face who brings back some intellect and knowledge to an otherwise boring Phal forum. Thought you scared them all away, didn't you??

I have 5 south windows where about the only thing I could grow would be moss. Seems Brooke is the one who knows Alicev and her lighting conditions. Maybe Calvin does too.

Any plant will improve with additional light. Good light can excuse poor watering habits. If the OP has killed every houseplant she's grown, yet can grow everything outside, most people would assume light to be the determining factor.

Yes, Calvin it should not be an absolute assumption as the OP could be sprinkling salt on her houseplants.

Ah yes, the rest of the Enlightened Ones has shown up. There were three of them unless you count both of deClara's personalities as two. Or do we also count her personalities when she used oncidiumgirl and little_stars. I believe it is called MPD.

Jane please count down 16 posts from the original post. Obviously my lack of intellect permits me to have better reading comprehension than some.

It's nice to see your personlity and wit is still as sharp as ever - some things never change.

Brooke

awww common Jane...why do you have to be so mean? There hasn't been ONE interesting discussion on anything since Howard has left?! Thanks - not only have you exemplified your irrational idolization, but you've just dissed every single person that's posted anything in the last 3 months. (If you have a beef with brooke or myself, you should target us..we're the evil ones. Just joking)

I don't see how you are missing the point of this entire conversation, considering your sarcastically rude statement: "Seems Brooke is the one who knows Alicev and her lighting conditions. Maybe Calvin does too." essentially illustrates exactly what we're arguing AGAINST.

There isn't enough information to know what she is missing, and so it's foolish to make absolute assertions like "Windows are simply too unreliable a source of light energy" when in reality, people DO grow with just window light...just because you are not one of these people doesn't discredit everyone else.

That is all - no one is saying light is NOT the issue, no one is saying she should NOT increase/use artificial lighting. The only thing we are saying is to not make extrapolations about the situation when all we have are 4 little posts. We're going to have the poor girl off buying strings of CFLs, octopus lamps and tube lights for one little phal, when quite possibly (but of course not certainly) her window would suffice.

Ummm...huh??? I didn't know this was such a controversial subject.

Light may be an issues in MY houseplant problems, but like PP stated it's only 1 in 99 causes for failing in growing them. Other issues:

Amount of water, heat, 3 young kids who might/will eat or destroy them, neglect, lack of interest for something that takes so much time and care and gives a short minimal reward, never keeping them past a month, just to name a few.

Having said that please don't condemn me as a criminal yet. I am interested in keeping THIS plant and getting it to flower again. So with no intent to create drama what is this about dropping the temperature 20 degrees?

Maybe we never left? Is there no statute of limitations on forum persona animosity? There should be. Please don't welcome me back and then throw around such vile rejoinders about other forum members that are known friends of mine in the same post, Brooke. Your hostility is absolutely uncalled for. I have no control over what another adult says or does but I can tell you it doesn't look good to see you on the attack when there has not been any attack made on your person or persona. What good did it do to capture any part of that sad time if not to learn from it? I think this forum is big enough for all of us to have our say without getting in each others way. Respect my POV and my style and I will do likewise. It really is that simple.

H

Alice, you are in no way responsible for this. I'm a bit surprised by the intensity of feelings so many months since the forum took an unpleasant turn. Peace and happy growing.

H

I do not know what is meant by dropping the temperature 20F. All i know is that that some of mine have new flower spikes coming now that winter has arrived and temps inside the house have dropped because there is no central heating.

You can go into too much detail for just one plant. Just get your hubbie to read all the info. in the posts. Do some interpretation and position the plant in what you think is the optimum spot, follow the watering and other care instructions and see what happens.

The light is not necessary in this house because it has large windows and the climate has some (supposed to be) 300 sunny days a year. Though sometimes you wonder when it has rained the last nine days out of ten.

Welcome to the wonderful world of orchid growing and do not worry about the discourse. It is great that the forum is showing some signs of life.

You are correct H you had no control over what other adults? said in posts but you certainly NEVER asked them to stop when the insults were hurled at others.

Please research your memory cell and remember all the vileness originating from mike_gee's mouth via Clara since they were one and the same. Please remember how many insults he threw at various people who dared give another opinion other than the one you expounded. I remember those days in a much different light than you since the worship was directed at you and you reveled in it.

If you and your friend Jane didn't know Clara used her multiple personalities to bash many many members of this forum then you are not as smart as you think you are or you approved of it. The Enlightened Ones ruled with an iron fist and only permitted anyone who agreed with them to have a say. Making fun of anyone that disagreed was SOP.

Read the link below for a blast from the past but remember about half of gee's posts were removed by the forum police - too bad because they were choice.

Brooke

Jeez,

Will we ever stop hammering Clara???

Sometimes you just need to let things go people, holding that hate for such a long time can't be good :-(

This is the kind of crap that stopped this forum in it's tracks a few years back.

It's like 'they' want to make it their personal playground and if you don't agree with them, you'll get hammered. Kind of the same thing for which they hammered Clara (monopolizing the board with her views)

And Brooke: I was referring to your 'one trick pony' comment about H's original answer, which I assumed you meant she didn't need additional light. YOU re-read the thread and the order again and don't treat me like I'm stupid!

Bob

Why don't you trade it for something you like that will give you more enjoyment and less stress. THere's plant exchange page and I'm sure someone will have something that's equal value. Mailing during this season is a snap with Priority Mail boxes. I know there's a exchange section on this forum but I'm thinking you'd like something else, not more of the orchids.

ah, yes -- I remember the Good Ol' Days when we had interesting discussions on light! Yes, the "others" really contributed, didn't they? Such intellect and knowledge from la countessa, aka Drs Charles and Vanessa Varzsegy MD, Phd. Who remembers the "others"?

--Stitz--

It sounds to me like some of you don't have the vaguest idea of how to disagree with grace. It also sounds like some of you are extremely touchy on certain points and don't know how to handle yourselves properly when faced with them. It also sounds a bit petulant and childish.

I suggest this ground rule - no one gets negative or positive comments if they're not here to respond. We don't talk about people behind their backs.

Deal?

Alicev, welcome to the Forum. Usually it's more congenial. None of this is about you.

A couple of my friends have been in your situation, and I'll post some way basic guidelines for your husband that I wrote up for them.

Whitecat8

I second Whitecat8's point, disagree without being disagreeable and keep the original poster's question or comment the subject of responses.

I have only been on the forum 4 1/2 years but I can remember some "interesting" threads like "orchids in home decor" (or some similar title). I like this forum because it welcomes people with questions like the one this thread is supposed to be addressing.

Alice, I hope we haven't put you off asking more questions.

Hi Alice,

Hope you're still checking in here. As I said, a couple of my friends have had just one orchid - a Phal they wanted to rebloom, and asked me how. Also, my 15-year old niece is getting into orchids, and we've had some great emails over what why how when.

Most of the items on the following list need to be addressed only once, like what kind of pot is your orchid in right now.

After a few weeks, many new orchid people find the orchid care routine is⦠routine.

If your husband would like to email me with questions & comments, Iâd love to hear from him. At the top of my message here, click on the link for âMy Page.â When you get to Whitecat8âs Member Page, click on âSend me an emailâ over to the right. I can send these directions as an attachment, too.

Caveat: My Phal hybrids (like you've got) grow with the culture routine below. Others have somewhat different practices. This isn't cast in stone but will give you a good start. Whitecat8

Care for your Phalaenopsis Orchid

Phalaenopsis (fail uh noppâ sis) Orchid, or âPhalâ (fail)

Note: This list is long. Much of it needs to be addressed only once.

A. Initial information

1. Whatâs your Phal in now?
- Does the pot have paper around it? If so, take it off.
- Does the pot have any holes in the bottom? If so, how many and about how large are they? If there arenât any holes, weâll talk about a different pot.
- Whatâs the pot made of? Plastic is fine. Unglazed clay with more than one drainage hole in the bottom or slit in the side is fine.

2. Whatâs your Phal planted in?
- Some sort of bark mixture?
- Some sort of moss? If itâs moss, it may be green on top. Thatâs fine.
- Plain dirt?
- Something else?

If your husband reads through this and wants to give it a go, we can talk briefly about repotting. Reason: Orchids that are mass-produced have been raised as economically as possible, rather than for a good, long life.

Also, orchids need smaller pots than many houseplants, relative to size, plus extra holes for drainage, and we can run over that info quickly.

B. Light
So, about your Eastern windows⦠Ideally, your Phal will get full, direct Eastern sunlight falling on its leaves for several hours each day. Your Southern windows may work, but often, that light is too strong for Phals.

- Do you have an overhang over the E. windows that interferes with full, direct light for several hours each day?
- Do trees cut the light?
- Another house?
- Anything else cut the light from full strength?
- Can you get your Phal right up next to the glass without the leaves touching the glass?

If the E. light is less than full, we may be talking a plant light, unless your Southern light is cut by trees, etc.

Note: If youâre thinking about putting the plant outside, check w/ this Forum 1st. Orchids have to be acclimated to outside light carefully and slowly.

C. Temperatures

Phal hybrids like yours thrive in usual household temps. Let us know if your temps are different.

That 20-degree drop comment. To initiate spikes, many orchids need a drop in temps. Iâve always heard it was 10 degrees for Phals, not 20, but Phals do well in a range of conditions. Regardless, all my Phal hybrids initiate spikes in the house, even if theyâre not up next to the windows.

D. Humidity

Experienced folks have different opinions. All winter, my Phal hybrids have an RH (Relative Humidity) between the teens to the low 30% range, and they bloom each year. Summer RHs are higher. In the literature, usually recommendations are a minimum of 50%. Some people use humidifiers during the winter.

E. Air movement

Unless your orchidâs in an isolated spot, it may get enough air movement from the kids running around, adults walking by, doors opening and shutting, etc. If thereâs little air movement, a small fan will take care of it.

F. What you need

1. un-softened water. If your water is softened, youâll need to find another source of water. The chemicals in softened water kill orchids. Two options are reverse osmosis water or distilled water that are sold here in grocery stores, Whole Foods, and co-ops.

2. wooden BBQ skewer or sharpened wooden pencil

3. a plastic pot for the Phal, or an unglazed clay pot with extra holes. Glazed or metal pots donât breathe and cause root rot.

4. container for water with fertilizer mixed in - a smallish watering can, jar, etc. You can mix up enough for several waterings. You may not be fertilizing often, so a half-gallon container or a bit smaller is fine.

5. orchid fertilizer, small amount, from Home Depot, etc., but Target here doesnât carry it. It will be diluted in water, so the smallest amount sold will be fine.

Mix fertilizer w/ water, going by the directions. Put it in the watering can and put plastic wrap or something over the opening in the top so it wonât evaporate. You wonât be using it often - maybe not even once a month.

6. Any houseplant fertilizer will do if you donât find orchid fertilizer easily - Miracle Grow, etc. Just cut the fertilizer to 1/4 the recommended amount.

7. A saucer, a decorative tray, etc. - something to put the orchid pot in when itâs sitting in the window. This will catch any extra water and protect the windowsill or whatever the pot sits on.

8. Optional - put small stones, marbles, or something similar in the saucer to catch any drips left from watering.

G. Watering

Put the wooden BBQ skewer or sharpened pencil all the way down in the potting medium, close to the "stem" of the Phal, and leave it there. Only an inch or so of either needs to stick out from the top of the potting medium, so you can cut off the rest, if you donât like the look of the entire thing.

After a couple of days, pull out the whatever, being careful of splinters on the skewer. If the bottom inch of so of the skewerâs wet or damp, put it back and donât water or fertilize or flush - wherever you are in the watering cycle. (See below.) Re-check in two days.

If the skewer is coolish or dry, itâs time to water. If itâs dry, check a couple of days sooner next time.

1. First watering - water with un-softened tap water or reverse osmosis or distilled water when the medium is almost dry (determine by feeling the skewer).

This means take the orchid to the kitchen sink, warm the water till itâs tepid, and run tepid water over the surface of the medium until water flows freely from the holes in the bottom of the pot for a few seconds.

If you have a sprayer at the sink, you can use that instead of the faucet.

If using reverse osmosis or distilled water, going to the sinkâs also handy.

SOAK UP any water that collects in the âVâ of all leaves where they come out of the stem. This will prevent crown rot, which often is fatal. The corner of a paper towel or Kleenex is perfect.

Let the pot drain before taking it back to the window.

DO NOT let the bottom of the pot stand in water. The plant could die from rotted roots. In the wild, Phals grow in trees, often parallel to the trunk, so their bare roots get dew and rainwater, plus breezes.

2. Second watering - fertilizing. Back to the sink. First, run some tepid water through the potting medium. Then stir the fertilizer water in the watering can or whatever and pour through the medium, the same as you did in step one. Then soak up any water in the âVâ of the leaves.

By using plain water before the fertilizer water, youâll minimize the chances of salts in the fertilizer burning the roots.

If your Phalâs in bark, repeat step 1 here, then go to step 3 for the next watering. Watering for bark has 4 steps.

If itâs in moss, go to step 3.

3. Third watering - flushing. Flush pot with tepid, un-softened water & rub the leaves, top and bottom surfaces, between your fingers.

Flushing (also called leaching) means running a lot of tepid water through the pot. The ideal is to run 4 times the usual amount of water when youâre flushing.

The purpose is to flush out the fertilizer salts that collect in the potting medium and can burn the roots.

Rubbing the leaves while running them under water gets off the dust, which decreases the orchidâs ability to absorb light. If there are any bugs that you canât see, itâll rinse them off, too.

Except for the extra amount of water, take the same steps you did for regular water, including soaking up any water in the âVâ of the leaves.

Next watering, start over with Step 1.

When you return the pot to its spot, make sure any extra water that drains into the saucer doesn't touch the bottom of the pot, or the roots can rot.

HAVE FUN!

My apologies for the unintended characters that mostly replace apostrophes. None showed up before I sent the post. WC8

Brooke, you need to find something else to do with your free time instead of counting posts, saving old threads throwing insults... give it up, no one cares.

WC8,
I noticed that unintended characters similar to yours were found when I composed a piece on MS Word and then copy/pasted directly to the online forum. Perhaps, this may be a cause of your problem?

I agreed to a "deal" with iVillage -- TERMS OF SERVICE FOR GARDENWEB NETWORK.

--Stitz--

WC8's comments about light are right on. There is putting the plant in the window and putting the plant close up to the glass in the window. Every inch back from a window cuts the light considerably. In an east window the plant should be as close to the glass as possible. In a south window, for a phal at least, the plant should be a bit back from the glass. With a phal you can feel the leaves and if they're hot, the light is too strong and the plant can be moved back a couple of inches. If cool, the plant can be placed a bit closer. If the leaves take on a red hue, that means the plant is getting optimum light.

Also, the light is the best in the center of the windwow where it will get direct mid-day light. Placing the plant to the left or right will subject it to either early morning light or afternoon light.

Alice, I'll be glad to email you the instructions as a pdf so you don't have to translate. Just let me know. If you don't want to post your email address online, just click the My Page link in this message. When you get to my Member Page, click on Send email, or some such, over to the right. Put your name in the subject so I'll know it's for real.

Orchid126, You read that gobbledee gook! I'm flattered. You make good points.

Stitz, I pasted from Word to here, then hit the Preview Message button. In the preview, everything looked fine. So, I hit Submit, and the characters showed up in the thread itself.

Same thing happened when I updated my Member Page earlier this week. Is that what happens to you?

This just started, so maybe my ancient M'soft Office Suite for Mac is one version out of date now. What are you using instead?

Thanks, WC8

WC8,
Im back in the Middle Ages with Microsoft Office 2003. I havent done what I described for a few years. I dont recall the "precise" outcome any longer.

--Stitz--

Orchids have their blooming season. I was once have this tiger orchids and it took almost a year before I see those beautiful flowers in bloom.