Let's see if I can figure out how to post pictures here... The zoysia was sodded 5 weeks ago. I started out watering 4 days per week and am currently in the process of trying to decrease the frequency down to once per week (I'm currently at 3 days per week and plan to just do 2 days next week.) As far as fertilizing the Zoysia, my current plan was to roughly follow the same pattern as the Bermuda, except do only one round of 39-0-0 nitrogen instead of 3 and watch a little closer for thatch. Any thoughts on whether its safe to use a selective herbicide for weeds on the newly sodded meyer zoysia? Seems I can't get the pictures to embed. The link below should work though... Thanks! Here is a link that might be useful: Lawn Pics

Epsom Salts a Magnesium Sulfate and Magnesium is an essential plant nutrient along with Calcium, Zinc, Phosphorus, Potash, Nitrogen, etc. But an excess of Magnesium in the soil will interfere with the plants ability to uptake calcium, so while it is a necessary element it is never a good idea to simply add some, Epsom Salts, without a good, reliable soil test to guide that application. Crab grass seeds in your area will not germinate for another 2 months so it might be too early for applications of pre emergent crab grass stuff. The single best way to keep cab grass from growing in your yard is grow a good, thick stand of tall grass that will shade the soil so the crab grass seeds will not find a good enironment to germinate in. If your mower will allow, cut you grass no shorter than 3-1/2 inches and 4 would be better, but cut as high as the mower will allow. This will encourage the grass to grow in thicker and crowd out the crab grass, or any other "weed" that might try to grow there.

How about calcium pills in the vitamin section of the grocery store?

I'll let you research our opinion of core aeration. Hint: I'm not a fan. And skip the compost, it's expensive, difficult to apply, a lousy feeding, and unnecessary to add bacteria, which float around on the wind for free. You can technically apply pre-emergent at any point as weeds will sprout continuously on well-irrigated lawns. However, it's best to get the shield up early to catch that first huge flush of spring-sprouting weeds. Overall, quality of even this well-cared-for lawn is fair at best. Fortunately, the soil test tells us exactly why this is and how to fix it, so let's explore further... EC 4.1: A very sandy soil. Your soil's going to shift quickly due to the low carrying capacity for resources, so plan on testing it yearly. OM 3.7%: Actually, this is well into the Fair range, but I'd like to get this up a lot higher due to your low EC as organic matter raises EC. Organic feedings, mulch mowing, mowing in all fall leaves, and so on will help here. It's not an emergency, just something to work on. Sulfur 77: Rather high, with little margin to play with. Fortunately, I don't need to do much playing and your sulfur levels are certainly not a problem. Phosphorus 9: So low it practically doesn't exist in your soil, which is seriously killing your lawn quality (and explains your neighbors' problems quite nicely). I've made recommendations below, but we're not going to finish this year. Target will be 200. Purchase the cheapest starter fertilizer as they'll all target about 1 pound per thousand square feet of phosphorus. Nitrogen levels are high enough to maintain your lawn beautifully. Calcium 46.0%: Very low, and a serious limiter of your lawn quality (again, this explains the neighbors'). Recommendations below. Purchase Encap or Mag-I-Cal lime as other limes aren't as strong, won't work as fast, and contain other elements that I don't want to be adding to your soil. Magnesium 9.1%: A little low, but nothing severe. Buy a nice large bag of Epsom salt at your local drugstore, in the bath or first aid section. Recommendations below. Potassium 6.5%: Exactly where it should be by the numbers, the percentage is a little over-inflated due to the lack of sufficient calcium in your soil. This will settle down after the calcium application. Minor Elements: Although I'd like to shift boron, copper, and zinc, there's so much going on this year that I'm going to skip it as I risk not having it stick very well. I mentioned iron below. Iron 49: Not deficient in the slightest, but not high enough to produce great color on the lawn. Any time you like, you can apply Milorganite to raise your iron levels (slowly) and add a little organic material to the soil. Recommendations: June 1: Feed at bag rate with starter fertilizer. June 15: Apply 4 pounds per thousand square feet Encap or Mag-I-Cal calcitic lime. July 1: Feed at bag rate with starter fertilizer. July 15: Apply 1 pound per thousand square feet Epsom salt. August 1: Feed at bag rate with starter fertilizer. September 1: Feed at bag rate with starter fertilizer. September 15: Apply 3 pounds per thousand square feet Encap or Mag-I-Cal calcitic lime. October 1: Feed at bag rate with starter fertilizer. October 15: Apply 1 pound per thousand square feet Epsom salt.