Thanks for the update and the pictures! Itâs good to know that your trees healed well. I was curious how they did because Iâve got a ton of rabbit and vole damage to deal with. Iâve got about 200 apple and pear trees in a fenced-in 60â x 60â nursery. The trees are 1 to 4 years old, ranging in size from less than a foot to 7 feet tall, with each one wrapped with a 24â plastic vole guard. Even though the nursery is surrounded by an 8-foot polypropylene mesh deer fence fortified with a 28-inch welded wire rabbit fence, it was no match for the 2 to 5 feet of snow thatâs been on the ground for most of the winter. With the snow higher than the rabbit fence, they easily chewed through the polypropylene mesh, and, in a single night, nipped almost everything down to snow-level (about 30â). The bigger trees are missing big patches of bark, maybe 2/3 to 3/4 of the way around the trunk. Oh - and under the snow, on the smaller trees, voles skeletonized everything above - and sticking out of - the plastic guards like piranhas. I saved what I could by wrapping what was still standing above the guards in aluminum foil, made some patches in the fence with poultry netting, and dug a trench in the snow all the way around the nursery. In the process of mending the fence (which took a few days), rabbits got in only once. They ignored all the aluminum-covered trees, and gnawed on raspberry canes instead. Once mended, the rabbits havenât got back in. As for the vole guards, they can only save the wood that theyâre guarding. I wonât know the full extent of the damage until the snow melts. It stands at a little under 2 feet deep right now. Itâs just devastating to see such damage. Heartbreak aside, my concerns/questions are: Will there be new growth (from the scion/variety Iâm trying to grow) if there are no visible buds? Is there anything I should do to keep disease (scab, canker, fireblight) from entering the wounds? Good luck!

It does have to do with the dogs' diet. Nitrogen is a byproduct of proteins breaking down. The more protein in the food, the more nitrogen they create, and the higher the nitrogen levels, the deader the grass. We fed our previous two dogs a raw diet all their lives. They ate a lot of raw meat and raw meaty bones for over 12 years, and until I trained them to pee only on mulch, they burned the lawn. We lost them both at the end of last year, and I vowed to feed a premium kibble if we got another dog. It was so expensive and it was a lot of work to feed raw. There are much better dog foods available than there were in the 90s when we got our first puppy. So here we are with a 19 month old retriever mix and a 9-month old Aussie-lab-elkhound mix, and to my amazement, their urine never burns the lawn. Oh, it burned for a time, when I was feeding them Blue Buffalo food, but then our retriever mix had some pancreatitis issues and the vet recommended a lower protein food, so we switched to Natural Balance limited-ingredients formulas. We opted not to feed any prescription foods. No burns on the lawn. I have even flagged where they pee and kept an eye out for damage.We get deeper green spots, but never any burns. I do not recommend choosing a food based on how it affects your lawn, and I would never give our dogs those pills that allegedly "neutralize" the urine. It just worked out this way. Last week, I became suspicious though, when I saw round dead spots showing up all over our lawn. I wondered what was going on with the dogs' food that the grass would suddenly start to burn. And then I noticed there were dead weeds in the middle of every dead spot. Our lawncare service spot treated for weeds and killed everything where the guy sprayed.

What type of grass is it? Do you have pictures of the overall area? Some grass types die in the summer heat and do a poor job of spreading/repairing themselves. These grasses need to be overseeded every year or they get progressively worse. Other grass types do a better job repairing themselves if cared for well - but may take some time. From what limited info I can get from the few pictures provided I can see: 1. water competition near tree, much beds, high spots. 2. greener grass in gullies and low spots 3. competition for resources with weeds 4. lots of cut grass on the lawn 5. disease/brown patches in what could be low areas surrounded by darker green grass For 1 & 2 changing your irrigation may help. If you know how much water each area get, you can compensate to even things out. For 3, using a pre-emergent year round would help that issue - it's expensive but well worth it imho. How high do you mow, 3"? 4?" When do you mow? It look like the mowed grass layin on the lawn is about the same height as the grass it is laying on. In that case it means you are mowing 50% of the grass off at a time. You should only mow off 1/3 MAX. So if your grass is 3" tall it should be mowed BEFORE it reaches 4" to be safe, esp with high & low spots. Letting your lawn get to 4.5" will give you a little bit more time before you have to mow it at 6". Plus the lawn with shade out many weeds, required less water, etc. The grass also needs to be mulches, not just side discharged and left to lay there. The piles of grass take much longer to decompose and become hotspots for disease.

I don't think any amount of sanding and refinishing will repair the dents. By the time they sand enough to remove the dents, they'll probably have removed most of the thin layer of wood that's on top. If you try to fix it you may void any warranty and any work you do on the floor could create a large problem. Apparently the brand floor you have doesn't have the best reviews and several people have complained of poor customer support. Here's one site of some of the reviews. Since the owner/manager of the condo would be the one responsible for contacting the manufacturer and having a rep come out and access the problem, I suggest you gather as much info as you can about the flooring (and how soft it is) and then show the manager/owner the problem with the flooring. Scratches from a dog are one thing but damage from a sofa and bed sitting on the flooring is another. To me, that just means the flooring is really soft and will always need some type of additional protection from furniture & general use. Read your contract and see what it says in regards to typical wear and tear from pets and what your deposit covers. Hopefully, your landlord will try to work something out so that you don't loose that hefty deposit......but don't be surprised if you lose a portion of it.