Also for watering: the soil looks too dry too soon currently. Mine, too--and I have no real problems. The very top surface of the soil dries out really fast in sun and wind, but that doesn't mean there isn't water underneath. You can test that by pushing a screwdriver into the soil. If it goes in fairly easily (barring rocks), your soil is damp. Or drive a small trowel into it and separate it into a V shape by rocking it a little bit. That'll give you a direct visual on how deep the water is. Here would be my plan: for now do very frequent waterings to help really wet the soil, I'm not familiar with California (except for the part about moderate temperatures and no rain), but this doesn't sound like a good idea--it encourages shallow roots and lawn diseases. The standard is 1" of water a week, all at once (well, within a day to allow for on/off cycles to allow the water to penetrate). For sandy soil your mileage will differ because the water wicks out fast and goes very deep very quickly. I will also probably try milorganite as a jump start, as I fear my soil is probably pretty depleted. I swear by it, others don't (it is processed sewage, but heated enough to kill everything in it). The 18 lbs/thousand square feet I put down last weekend kicked in and it's a rainy week. The grass, since Sunday, has grown one and a half inches and gone a deeper green. Once it stops raining, I'll mow. I went high, but I'm going to renovate this fall--with a deep, heavy core aeration I want lots of organics mixing into the holes. I alternate it with alfalfa and soy. When I started (early last year), my soil profile was slightly silty clay, poor drainage, very poor water penetration, hard as a rock, and a light tan. It had been corn field for as long as I could remember prior to building, and even my parents don't remember when it wasn't. Call it 40 years of abuse. Now it's still slightly silty clay (nothing's going to change that short of a renovation down to a foot or more). Drainage is fair to good, penetration is good to excellent, the soil is still hard when dry (it's supposed to be), but spongy when wet. The top half-inch is black, another inch is deep brown, and a good three inches below that have turned a midrange brown. Everything grows better and more strongly. I'm very pleased. Some older photos are here. I have to update them--the grass has improved since these were taken and the season advanced a bit.

"I politely told him no thank you, then his wife chimed in "she's an organic gardener," which btw, SHE is the one who told him to ask me in the first place!!!! My neighbor sat there on his lawn mower for a sec, got this funny look on his face and then said to me, "I would say something but I won't!" " You know, it's interesting - I initially thought the comment was directed at you, but one poster suggested that it might have been in regards to the wife. That is a really interesting possibility and totally changes the dynamic. I'm fortunate to have at least a few neighbors who have surprised me when I mentioned being a composter. They are not environmentalists, but they didn't have any problem at all that I am. I've also somehow gotten a reputation at the school \- they are always asking me to work on the children's gardens. Anyway, I hope the neighbor thing works out.

My comments are in bold italic. My conclusion from this 1976 study is that 16% of soil microbes are completely wiped out by even small doses of these herbicides. These get kind of technical... http://www.springerlink.com/content/ng082l7058813182/ Influence of four herbicides on the algal flora of a prairie soil D. R. Cullimore1 and A. E. McCann1 (1) Department of Biology, University of Regina, S4S OA2 Saskatchewan, Canada Received: 11 May 1976 Summary Four herbicides (2,4-D, trifluralin, MCPA and TCA) were applied at two concentration levels to isolated cores of a grassland loam soil. After herbicide contact times of 1, 5, and 20 days, samples were taken and the algal population estimated both quantitatively and qualitatively using two selective mineral salts media. Thirty-one genera of algae were identified as occurring in the soil. Of these, Chlamydomonas, Chlorococcum, Hormidium, Palmella, and Ulothrix proved to be so sensitive to the four herbicides that they were rarely isolated from the cores after treatment. Other algal genera were found to be less sensitive, and the theoretical percentile sensitivity of fifteen genera was calculated. Chlorella, Lyngbya, Nostoc, and Hantzschia were found to be the most resistant algae, having percentile sensitivity to all four herbicides of less than 50%. Some algal genera varied in their sensitivity to each of the herbicides. Scytonema was sensitive to all of the herbicides except 2,4-D, while Tolypothrix showed a greater tolerance to MCPA. In the top cm of the soil, the reduction in cell numbers experienced by many algal genera after herbicide treatment was offset by an increase in the population of Chlorella. Stichococcus, Oscillatoria, and Spongiochloris all exhibited the ability to recover rapidly after a reduction in cell numbers resulting from the application of one of the herbicides. An overall reduction in cell numbers was noted for the algae growing preferentially on a nitrogen-free medium (i.e. potential nitrogen-fixers). re]19760511 Here's a 2005 study that showed similar results but not quantified... http://www.scielo.br/scielo.php?pid=S0100-83582005000400017&script=sci_abstract SANTOS, J.B., JAKELAITIS, A., SILVA, A.A. et al. Microbial activity in soil after herbicide application under no-tillage and conventional planting systems. Planta daninha, Oct./Dec. 2005, vol.23, no.4, p.683-691. ISSN 0100-8358. This study evaluated the effect of the herbicides fluazifop-p-butyl and fomesafen in five concentrations (0.0; 1.05; 2.10; 4.20 and 8.40 g g-1) and their mixture (Robust®) on microbial activity in soil submitted to no-tillage system (NTS) and conventional planting system (CPS). Samples in Erlenmeyer of 250 mL were treated with herbicide and wetted to field capacity. After every four days, microbial respiration was quantified through CO2 left by the soil. Metabolic quotient (qCO2) and carbon of microbial biomass (CMB) were determined 20 days after incubation. Under NTS, microbial activity increased with fluazifop-p-butyl and decreased with up to 4.20 µg g-1 of fomesafen. Herbicide effect on soil microbial respiration and CMB under CPS was below that observed under NTS.CMB increased with the increase of fluazifop-p-butyl concentration and decrease of fomesafen concentration. The mixture (Robust®) did not influence CMB under NTS, but it was reduced under CPS in higher concentrations. Under NTS, qCO2 increased with the herbicide concentrations, without, however, varying between them. Under CPS, herbicide mixture provided a higher qCO2. In general, the herbicides provided a negative effect on microbial biomass, proportional to the concentrations applied, being smaller in soil under NTS than in soil under CPS. This one you'll have to read. Some microbes increase, some decrease. Here's the final paragraph and the conclusion. http://www.ath.aegean.gr/srcosmos/showpub.aspx?aa=5462 EFFECT OF ATRAZINE ON MICROBIAL ACTIVITY IN SOIL AND MAIZE RHIZOSPHERE Milosevic Nada,* Govedarica Mitar** and Cvijanovic Gorica*** According to Greaves and Malkomes [7], most groups of microorganisms regain their population size 30 days after herbicide application. If inhibition of microbiological activity persists longer than 60 days, the ecological balance is considered to be disturbed. Microorganisms are constituting elements of the environment. Their abundance, enzymatic activity and biodiversity are good indicators of the balance in the agro-ecological system. CONCLUSION Atrazine affected the biological activity of the soil. The impact of atrazine depended on its dose and date of testing. It was observed that atrazine cause highest reduction in the total number of microorganisms, the number of azotobaters and DHA in the period of 60 days after application. The higher doses of the herbicide were more detrimental for the total number of microorganisms than the lower dose. Atrazine application increased the numbers of actinomycetes and fungi, especially the higher dose. This one shows a decrease in soil biomass after using a herbicide... http://www.springerlink.com/content/fu8wu864f6x0078r/ Relationship between rimsulfuron degradation and microbial biomass content in a clay loam soil Authors C. Vischetti, P. Perucci, L. Scarponi Abstract The present research was conducted to determine the relationship between the degradation of rimsulfuron and soil microbial biomass C in a laboratory-incubated clay loam soil (pH=8.1; organic matter=2.1%) under different conditions and at different initial dosages (field rate, 10 and 100 times the field rate). The half-life values varied between 0.4 and 103.4 days depending on temperature, soil moisture and initial dose. Evidence suggested that rimsulfuron could pose environmental risks in cold and dry climatic conditions. Significant decreases in microbial biomass C content in rimsulfuron-treated soil, compared to untreated soil, were observed initially, especially at higher temperatures and low moisture levels, but never exceeded 20.3% of that in control soil. The microbial biomass C content then returned to initial values at varying times depending on incubation conditions. The relationship between herbicide degradation and microbial biomass C content gave parabolic curves (P

Organic Lawn Care FAQ How do I prepare the soil for an organic turf program? The key to a successful organic lawn program is the soil. It must be alive with wide variety of beneficial microorganisms and bugs. Beneficial microbes both feed and protect the plants from disease-causing microbes. All the organic gardener does is feed the beneficial microbes and let them do their work. Beneficial microorganisms include bacteria and fungi found in finished compost. There are two ways to get the microbial benefit from compost. The best way to get a complete dose of beneficial microbes is by including finished compost in the soil preparation before laying seed or sod. Preparing the ground right beforehand is preferred to applying after the grass is established. Plans for a new lawn should specify that compost be mixed with the top 4 inches of topsoil, half-and half, when the land is renovated for grass seed or sod planting. This ensures that the microbes will be in the root zone as the grass seed germinates. However, if your lawn is already established and you want to go organic, you can add compost to the lawn as a top dressing. This means physically dropping compost on top of the turf and then sweeping it off the grass plants and onto the soil where the microbes will be washed into the soil. A careful watering of the lawn after the application of compost will hasten this process. Care must be taken to avoid topping with too much compost. See the FAQ below about this technique and recommendations to avoid smothering the existing lawn. Many other issues are important to the success of an organic lawn. Watering, fertilizing, and weeding programs are all vital and the reader is encouraged to study this FAQ regarding each of these topics. Success is also closely related to the choice of grass selected for the lawn. Choice of grass is outside the scope of this FAQ. For more information about soil microbes go to and read everything you can find or search the Internet for "The Soil Biology Primer." How Do I Apply Compost To My Lawn? Spread it around in piles on the lawn with a wheelbarrow. Sling it from the piles onto the grass with a shovel. Then use a push broom to sweep it off the grass blades and down into the turf. Water it in to activate the compost microbes and wash them onto your soil. Apply compost to grass at a rate of no more than 1 cubic yard per 1,000 square feet. This results in a thin layer about 1/3 inch deep when spread out uniformly. How do I fertilize organically? Commercial organic dry fertilizers, such as Ringers, Espoma, Greensense, and Texas Tee, are protein based and must be digested by soil microbes before the nitrogen becomes available to the roots. The ingredients of these commercial fertilizers include ground corn, alfalfa, cottonseed, corn gluten meal, soy, other grains, as well as blood meal and feather meal. Any ground seed or bean is good as an organic fertilizer including used coffee grounds. You can often find these same ingredients in bulk form at farm or feed stores. A good application rate for these grain based fertilizers is 10-20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Organic fertilizer may be applied any day, any time of day, and at any amount without fear of hurting the turf. Give it 3 weeks for the microbes to process the protein before the benefit is seen in the grass. After 200 years of an NPK mentality toward fertility, university researchers are just now returning to study soil microbes and protein based microbe food. Not much has been published. Try Brown University. Otherwise industry and consumers are leading the way on protein fertilizers. Check out and attra.org (search for alternative soil amendments). Where do I get protein fertilizers? Commercial brands can be found at organic garden supply stores and at some farm and feed stores. The commercial brands might go as high as $30 for a 30-pound bag. A typical retail price for 50 pounds of bulk alfalfa pellets or corn meal is $3-$7 at a farm/feed store. Call around, as prices will vary depending on the availability in your area. Wont the use of all this protein feed encourage vermin and insect pests? Logically you would think so, but it doesnÂt seem to. Will chemical fertilizers kill the soil microbes? It is possible but it shouldnÂt unless it is overused. Although it is a salt, it has no sodium in it. Sodium is the culprit in almost all "salt" problems. Then what is wrong with chemical fertilizers? Chemical fertilizers provide an "empty" type of food directly to the plants. This is like the empty calories we get from eating pure refined sugar. Microbes provide full service to the plants. They decompose dead plant and animal residues to humus; combine nitrogen and carbon to prevent nutrient loss; suppress disease; produce plant growth regulators; develop soil structure, tilth, and water penetration/retention; clean up chemical residues; shift soil pH toward neutral; retrieve nutrients from distant parts of the soil; decompose thatch; and control nitrogen supply to the plants according to need. Besides that, if a chemical fertilizer contains NPK of 10-10-10, nobody knows what the 70% of unlisted stuff is in the chemical bag that is not fertilizer. How should I water? Watering should be done in the mornings. Deep but infrequent watering encourages roots to penetrate deeper into the soil. Watering in the evening encourages pathogenic fungus disease so try not to let the grass blades have water on them after dark. Water for one to two hours at a time when you do water. When should I add manure? Never use fresh manure directly on your turf. You may use composted manure, but compost that has many other ingredients makes better compost. How often should I use compost on grass? Many people use compost every year. A highly respected compost manufacturer has only applied it to his own grass twice in 30 years. The answer probably lies somewhere in between. If you have had a flood or a turf disease, you should reapply. How do I get started in an organic program? Getting started is as easy as stopping the use of chemicals. You can easily replenish the microbes with a thin layer of compost. The next thing to do is start using protein-based fertilizers like corn meal, alfalfa meal, coffee grounds, soy meal, cottonseed meal, sorghum meal, or what ever you can get inexpensively at your local feed supply store. What is the annual plan? Spring: Any time before your grass starts to turn lush in the spring, apply a protein-based fertilizer at 10-20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Water it in when you want to. Summer: Leave it alone. Water in the morning once per week with enough water to get one inch per week in most zones. Fall: About 3 weeks before your grass stops growing, apply a protein-based fertilizer at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. +++ Possible Problem areas +++ How often do I aerate and soften compacted soil? You shouldnÂt have to do any mechanical aerating if you follow an organic program. Soil microbes will till and aerate your soil for you. As your soil develops natural tilth from the microbes digging for you, the soil will become softer and retain more water from each watering. How do I get rid of thatch? Thatch is not a problem in organic lawns. Beneficial soil microbes eat thatch. There is no need to collect grass clippings with the lawn mower and fall leaves can be mulched right back into the turf. My lawn is dead. What can I do? First make sure it is not just dormant. If it is not dormant and you have been watering regularly, you likely have a turf disease or an insect problem. Many lawn diseases are fungus related. If you suspect you have a fungus, the organic solution is to fight the pathogenic fungus with beneficial fungus. The Trichoderma (try-ko-DER-ma) fungus eats the pathogenic fungi. Trichoderma grows especially well on whole ground corn meal. Apply corn meal at 10-20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. A thin layer of compost will help replenish the beneficial microbes which may have been killed off by the disease microbes. The other possibility is you have insect damage. Grubs or grub worms are the larvae of various beetles including the June bug. When you see beetles flying around your lights at night, itÂs time to spray beneficial nematodes on the turf. Beneficial nematodes are parasites for insect larvae. See more later in this FAQ. Two good references for further information can be found at the Texas A&M University at Stephenville (search for Peanut Disease and Nematode Control Recommendations) and look for the T-22 Seed Treatment at . University of Florida has info on beneficial nematodes. Is this the same corn meal I can get at the grocery store? Yes it is. You can get it much cheaper at a farm/feed store in 50-pound bags. My grass is alive but turns yellow in the middle of summer. Do I need to add nitrogen or iron? Some grasses need nitrogen more often than others. If you used protein in the spring, you might need a second or third dose of organic fertilizer. If that doesnÂt help, you might need iron. Glauconite, packaged as greensand, will likely turn your lawn green again. When applied at 40 pounds per 1,000 square feet, it seems to keep grass green when other lawns turn yellow. The iron from greensand is not immediately available to plants, so once again you have to wait for the microbes to process it. This takes a week or two. How do I get rid of grubs (ants, fire ants, chiggers, fleas, ticks)? Beneficial nematodes are parasites for the all the pests listed. They come on a sponge which is wrung out into a bucket of water. The water is then sprayed on the lawn. For more info on beneficial nematodes, look at the University of Connecticut, University of Florida, Washington State University, Oklahoma State University, Cornell University, Texas A&M University, and many other university websites and search for beneficial nematodes. Should I have my soil tested first? You can certainly have your soil tested. Ask them to check for organic materials and microbe species counts. Most soil tests focus on pH and the amount of chemical fertilizer residue there is immediately available for the plants. My soil is too alkaline (acid). What should I do? If you are using an organic program, in many cases nothing needs to be done. No matter which side of neutral your soil is on, soil microbial action tends to move the pH to neutral near 7.0. How do I control weeds? Mow as high as your grass will allow you at maximum density to shade out weeds and weed seeds. Water deeply and infrequently to encourage deeper rooted grasses. Mow weeds off or hand pick. Never let weeds go to seed. For spot treatment or for small areas of pure weeds, many people have reported great success with 20% vinegar sprayed as a foliar spray, not a soil drench. Vinegar can be found at organic garden shops and feed stores. To a gallon of vinegar, mix a tablespoon of liquid dish soap and two tablespoons of molasses as wetting agents. Apply full strength from a hand sprayer. Be careful not to get any spray on you or in your eyes or inhale it. The smell will go away in 15 minutes. 20% vinegar will be the most hazardous thing you use in organic gardening. You can find more info about vinegar as an herbicide at usda.gov and search for vinegar. Is there an organic preemergent? There is an organic fertilizer that acts like a preemergent seed controller. That product is corn gluten meal (CGM). This is not the same as corn meal - different products work different ways. Do not use CGM if you are reseeding or trying to grow grass from seed. The only problem with CGM is the cost in most parts of the country. Prices range from $3 - $40 for a 50-pound sack depending on where you live. Apply at 10-40 pounds per 1,000 square feet. For more info go to and search for corn meal. I wonÂt go organic because compost piles (or bags of compost) stink. Compost piles never smell bad if they are properly managed. For more on compost, read the FAQ under the Soils and Compost Forum on GardenWeb. Does organic fertilizer stink? No it doesnÂt. Fresh manure stinks, but manure is not supposed to be used directly on anything. Anything that stinks should be composted for several months or until it stops stinking. Does compost carry disease? No. Aerobic composting with a good heat cycle kills off the disease causing microbes in the compost. If compost smells sour, rotten, rancid, or bad in any way, it is not finished cooking. Fluff it up to let more air in and let it sit for another few weeks. Read more about disease suppression at . IÂve used compost every year for years but my neighborÂs lawn is always greener. WhatÂs wrong? Compost is not a very good fertilizer. Compost is a soil amendment used primarily to bring beneficial soil microbes to your soil. If you want a thick, green turf grass, you need to add protein to feed the soil microbes. The microbes, in turn, will feed the grass. How much does organic gardening cost? IÂve heard it is very expensive. Following a full organic program should cost less than a chemical program. The first application of compost can be expensive, but it is important to look at the big picture. Protein fertilizer costs about the same per square foot as chemical fertilizer. The reason the organic program is less expensive is the fact that you wonÂt need expensive herbicides, pesticides, or fungicides. Can I put too much compost on? It is possible and happens to people who get bad advice about applying compost and manure. Unfortunately you can easily smother many grasses by putting too much compost on. That is why the recommended rate is 1 cubic yard of compost for every 1,000 square feet. This will result in application of 1/3 inch of compost if spread out uniformly - a very thin layer. Can I put too much organic fertilizer on? This cannot happen unless you use enough to smother the grass. The soil microbes must eat protein fertilizer before the grass gets any benefit. With an organic program, nothing goes to waste and nothing is washed away. Is there an organic weed and feed? Not really and we are thankful for that. Chemical weed and feed products are not very well designed. Refer back to the question about the preemergent for information about corn gluten meal. (This FAQ was written by one of our GardenWeb members: David Hall from San Antonio, TX aka Dchall_San_Antonio) Entered by CaptainCompostAL FAQ Page