How many times do I water them? When the plant needs it, water it really well, then nothing until the next time. Use a #2 pencil or a bamboo skewer an inch into the pot to tell. Most orchids are killed by over watering.

How many times do I fertilize them? I use fertilizer at 1/4 strength every time I water but once a month would be fine. Always weaker than directions say.

Can I use my all purpose miracle gro soluble fert? Yes. Any fertilizer with low fairly even numbers works well.

Do I cut the flowers to make it bloom more? Not in the sense of flowers in the garden where you cut the old flowers to keep them from going to seed. Leave the stalk (spike) on, cutting only the parts that actually turn brown and a new branch may start.

Should I transfer it to a different pot? No, if the inside pot has slits in the side and you take it out to water. After it finishes blooming, take it out of the ceramic pot to grow. It needs air around the pot for long term health.

Welcome to the forum.

There is a mountain of information on the net. Seek out some complete culture notes that relate to your climate zone that will add to the good advice in the post above.

Here is one set, that in the USA would relate to a climate similar to that of say San Diego.

You can also put Phalaenopsis in the search box on top of the discussions page to read past posts about this orchid.

Phalaenopsis Culture

These notes relate to Phalaenopsis culture in the Sydney area. These orchids cannot be grown outside in the yard or in a shade-house because winter minimum temperatures are too low and some summer maximum temperatures are too high. These temperature problems plus low humidity mean that special housing to meet Phalaenopsis needs is required, or the plants should be grown inside your home.

Culture within the home
Finding the place to put the plant. Your plant needs bright light, humidity levels of about 60% and temperatures where both you and the plant will be comfortable. That rules out one place that is often suggested, the bathroom. Another place that is a not good is one of those small closed in sunrooms where dry winter air is heated and the humidity levels are too low.
My plants are on the windowsill of a large airy kitchen. Winter temperatures range from 12C to 18C each day and a fibreglass blind protects the plants from all but a few hours of gentle sun in winter. Do not expose the plant to harsh direct sunlight because the leaves of the plant will burn. Early morning sun is best, but late afternoon sun is also OK provided it is screened as described above.

Humidity
Some people recommend spraying the plants with water every day to raise humidity. This is not necessary because the humidity level in most homes is about 60%. You may wish to place the plant on a humidity tray containing pebbles and water. This is not necessary either, but will not cause harm, provided the bottom of the pot is not sitting in water.

Watering
Frequency depends on the potting material and the atmosphere in the house but as a general guide once a week in winter grading to two or three times a week in summer. Potting material should be kept moist but not sopping wet.
Fertilizing
Use complete liquid fertilizer with every third watering, but only at half the prescribed strength. Wet the foliage as well.
Repotting
Every two years in late spring. Use specially prepared orchid bark, not Cymbidium mix. Try not to disturb the roots too much and just replace some of the older bark. Do not be in hurry to put in plant in a larger pot, because like most orchids, the plants seem to do better in a slightly pot-bound condition. Do not worry about some roots growing outside the pot. That is a good sign.

Treatment of flowering stem
When the flowers are nearly finished, you can cut the stem off just below the lowest flower and the plant may produce a new flowering shoot from the node just below the cut. BUT, note that most experienced growers cut the stem off at the base so the plant will put all its energy into growing new leaves, and therefore will produce better flowers next time.

Making the plant flower
The plant should produce a new flowering stem in late autumn as the temperatures drop. Some growers induce flowering by watering the plant with Epsom salts (Magnesium Sulfate) once a week several times in autumn. The amount of Epsom salts required is one tablespoon full in a bucket of water.
Pests and diseases
Your plant should remain pest and disease free in the home environment. Fungal disease which shows up as black spots on the leaves is a symptom of over-watering, cut back on the watering a bit and seek help from a nursery or garden centre if the problem persists.

Awesome! Thank you so much to both of you! :D

I will do my best to keep her healthy!!!

Let me just restate something, in case it is confusing... Richard's comment: "Most orchids are killed by overwatering." What he means is that most orchids are killed by watering too frequently (some people think overwatering means "too much water"). When you water, use a lot of water, let it drain, and then you're good to go until next time. I also recommend the bamboo skewer trick. What I did was stick it carefully into the middle of the pot somewhere, trying to avoid going through a root. Then, when I wanted to test it, I pulled it out, felt the end, and if it still felt damp, waited longer to water. When you leave the skewer in the medium until you test it, you leave a spot where the skewer can go back in. Otherwise, I was nervous that I would skewer a root each time.

Also, avoid getting water in the crown (top set of leaves, where new leaves grow). Otherwise, you may get crown rot, which can quickly kill your Phal. These orchids usually bloom once a year, but some of them bloom more frequently. I just expect them to bloom once a year, and consider anything extra blooming as a treat! Yours looks healthy. Good luck!

Your *phalaenopsis* (the kind of orchid you bought) is beautiful. And you chose very well, the plant itself looks healthy and vigorous, and the flowers are new and you have lots of buds. Good choice! It can bloom a long time for you, thrive, and set new flowers each year. I'm sure your wife loves it.

You're getting good advice from the posters above. I would like to add two suggestions for sources for excellent culture notes about care for phals:

The Canadian Orchid Congress has excellent culture notes for phalaenopsis. You can download and print them off their website.

Peter Lin, a phalaenopsis specialist, has written culture notes on how to grow and bloom phals specifically for the new, indoor grower. You can find them on his website, Big Leaf Orchids. Click the information tab across the top.

And BTW, I grow phals in MO, right next door, and conditions in the US are not as harsh for phals as those in Sidney. In fact, I would say that if you follow good cultural practices, phals are one of the easiest orchids, needing only the simplest things (no lighting candles when the moon is full).

A temperature that is comfortable for humans is the right temperature for them, and they can thrive in an east window, or south or west windows with a little protection.

Good luck

The Americans have a good site also. Lots of info -

Here is a link that might be useful: American Orchid Society

What a nice husband. Of course, I'm prejudiced toward orchids. :) Extra points for learning about the culture, instead of leaving your wife to search.

Lovely Phalaenopsis, Phal (fail) for short. There's something elegant about a graceful, white Phal...

Once you clear that new path in your brain for orchid care vs. houseplant/garden plant care, it'll be easy breezy.

Welcome, Whitecat8