Your plants have Bacterial Speck IMO but the treatment for all the leaf diseases is the same - strip off affected foliage ASAP, cease any overhead watering/sprinkling, and spray with fungicides on a regular basis to slow the progression of the disease till you can get a harvest. There is no "cure". And yes there are a number of ORMI approved fungicides available although their benefits are questionable when compared to chemical controls. As already mentioned you can learn much more about all this over on the forum for growing tomatoes here. Dave

I posted in MN site, but reposting here: I've been a veggie gardener for years(with some on & offs due to moving), but this is my second year in my new beds - about 40 of them. Last year I got off to a late start due to the time it took to builds the beds and fence & ended up with powdery mildew that killed my cukes and this year, I'm pretty sure my tomatoes have septoria leaf spot. In all my years of gardening, this has never happened! I want to stay organic and I am deciding if I should pull my plants and start solarizing or just wait it out. I am wondering if rather than solarizing, has anyone ever tried using a blow torch to heat soil? I'm just worried if I don't solarize with plastic now, there won't be enough high heat to attempt it later and the blow torch could come in handy? My other idea is to replace my soil - was it bad compost/manure? As I said, this is my second year in my new large garden, I always had a city lot before with about a 10x20 space. Maybe I'm just more susceptible due to the open air and spores traveling? I have drip irrigation and I prune my suckers so air flow was good. I don't mulch, perhaps that would have prevented it?

From the research I've just been doing on my early blight, which is what I see on yours (not the dreaded late blight), you need to get ALL of the affected leaves off there, because the spores are easily transferred from leaf to leaf, and yes, continue spraying. Serenade is an organic spray that's often recommended, and Daconil is also very popular (I don't know if it's organic though). And when you pluck off all those leaves (very carefully, so as not to spread the spores even more), you should bag them up very carefully and tightly, or burn them. Don't compost them, because you'll just be incubating the spores into your compost, which will cause further trouble. Good luck! We're in NJ and were nailed by the same rainy weather you probably had, so it's been quite the uphill battle for us too.

I see episodes of tomato septoria often in summer, but don't see how disinfecting cages might help. No research has ever shown active contamination by equipment, and I've never noticed an association. Straw mulch has been found to suppress septoria, but since there is no resistance available, you d what you can. I cluster tomatoes in several spots in the garden -- 4 plants here and 6 there -- as a preventive measure. It's been my experience that when cool rain sets the stage, septoria will sweep through one bed but not another. The edges of the woods are full of horsenettle, and I think that's where the inoculum comes from.