After initially answering the question about what type of water is best for aerated tea I found myself going into greater detail than what your question asked. So, I decided to simply go ahead and describe the entire process just in case there are some people who are interested in a more indepth explanation. First, the best water is pond water, where there are fish living in it is the best. Ponds with fish have all kinds of material that microbes really like. There will be a significant increase in the quality of your tea if you can use pond water. However, you can make great tea using tap water where the chlorine or chloramine has been eliminated. Be sure to check with your local water district to determine if your water is treated with chlorine or chloramine. If your water is treated with chlorine all you have to do is put the airstones in your bucket of water and turn it on for about half an hour, and that will take care of the chlorine. Chloramine, on the other hand, is a totally different situation. Chloramine is far more toxic and it will not outgas like chlorine. You have to go to a pet store and buy the drops that are used in aquariums that break the chloramine bond. Be sure to use twice as much as the directions say to use. The stuff is very inexpensive so don't worry about the cost. I think I use 4ml for 5 gal of water. For some reason I thought my city used chlorine and so I was aerating the water before using it. I made two batches of tea for myself and one for a neighbor before I called the city to verify the situation. When the water guy said chloramine I said, to myself, CRAP. I just wasted three batches. And since I use worm castings it was an expensive lesson. I don't know why I assumed the city used chlorine. But it was really dumb not to call first. Also, do not use pantyhose or a pillow case if you put your compost in a bag. The openings are too small to allow fungi to pass through. Fungi are simply too big. And when you consider the fact that there will be a certain amount of sediment that will build up inside your bag the holes are made even smaller to the point that even bacteria might have difficulty passing through. Use a paint strainer bag. And be sure to put an airstone inside the bag holding the compost as well. The bubbles inside the bag really help the bacteria to release from the organic material and push it into the water where they can really begin to multiply. I use a 70gph aquarium pumt that has two hose plugs. I have found that this allows me to attach the hoses to a three hose gangline. A gangline is much better than using a manafold to split one of the lines for two airstones. What I found is that air takes the avenue of least resistnence which means that if one of the airstones is not as poorous as the other then little air will be pushed through that stone. However, if you have a separate air hose for each airstone then air seems to be more evenly distributed resulting in all the airstones being very usefull. Many people do not use a bag to hold the compost. They simply put compost in the bucket, then fill the bucket with water and begin to aerate the tea that way. The problem with this method is that 99% of the compost settles at the bottom of the bucket which prevents effecient oxygenizatin (I think that is how you spell that). Unless you intend to stand there and stir the sediment for 32 hours, use a bag. After putting an airstone in the bag, tie it closed with a piece of twine and then tie the other end to a wood dowel or some other thing that will keep the bag suspended off the bottom of the bucket. With a bag, all I have to do is squeeze the bag every couple of hours just to make sure the bacteria in the compost is getting well aerated. I fill my bag with about 5 cups of worm castings. You can use any good quality compost, just be sure the mateial is FULLY composted. When you place the bag of compost into the water add 1oz of unsulphered molasses. This is the energy source the microbes will need to sruvive. Take a stick or a long spoon and stir the water so the molasses does not simply make a blob at the bottom of the bucket. Turn on the air pump and walk away. At no time should the water stink. It should smell earthy, or even slightly sweet. This is an indication that you are making a good aerobic tea. If for some reason your tea has an amonia smell, or it stinks at all I would suggest tossing it out and starting over. If for some reason the power is interrupted for a couple of hours, I would toss the whole thing out and start over. If you get a lot of foam on the top, use a couple of drops of vegetable oil. DO NOT use olive oil. Olive oil,like honey, has antimicrobial properties which will kill your tea. Also, do not use honey in place of molasses. After about 8 to 10 hours take the bag of compost out of the water and put the airstone that was in the bag into the bucket with the other two airstones. You can either put this compost in the garden or back into the compost bin. After taking the bag out of the bucket let the tea brew for between 24 to 32 hours. The tea will hit its max benefit, for a 5 gal bucket, at about this time. If you are going to brew the tea for longer than this you will need to add a tablespoon or so of molasses. Remember bacteria reproduce very fast, like every five minutes. During this process the number of bacteria will be increasing exponentially. All these bacteria need something to eat or they will die. One comment about the amount of air. Some people have gone to extremes and push so much air through their bucket that the water looks like the water you see in a juccuzzi. This is way too much force. Fungi are actually very large structures and you will totally destroy them if you push the air throught the water with too much force. A 70 gph aquarium pumt I bought for $15 at Petco is all you need for a 5 gal bucket. If you are going to use a 55 gal barrel then you would need to increse the size of the motor on the pump, but not for a 5 gal bucket of tea. The water should look like ther is a gentle rolling boil. Not like it is splashing out of the bucket. If you want to add fish emulsion or seaweed, add these at the end, a few minutes before you take out the airstones. Fish hydorolisate is really good stuff that fungi really like. Seaweed is another excellent product. If your tomato plants have problems with spider mites use seaweed every day until they are gone. Seaweed is fabulous for treating spider mites. If you intend to watering the garden with the tea try and apply it to soil that is moist; water penetrates moist soil much faster than it does dry soil. This will help the microbes penetrate into the soil faster which will result in less UV destruction. This also applies if you are doing a foliar application. The less UV the better. That means before 8:30 or so and after 5pm. It is the same idea why we should not till our garden. Tilling exposes the microbial matter, bacteria and fungi, to the sun where they oxydize and die, but that is a whole other discussion. Finally, be sure to apply your tea within two to three ours (no more than four hours) from the time you take the airstones out. Immediately if you can. Do not let it sit around for longer. Application: I just use a 2gal bucket that has a nozzle. I use the nozzel when I intend to foliar feed and I take it off when I simply want to ground water the plants. When you intend to foliar feed it is always best to try to get the tea on the bottom of the leaves too and a pump up sprayer works great. If you use a sprayer do not use a really fine mist. Be sure to use the setting that gives you the biggest dropletts. There are two primary reasons for this. First, you want the tea to stay on the leaves as long as possible. If you spray a really fine mist there will be a significant amount of evaporation before the plant has time to take in the tea. If you apply the tea using the largest dropletts you will greatly increast the time the tea stays on the leaves which will allow more time for the plant to take in the tea. Second, as I stated earlier, fungi are much larger than bacteria. If you try to use a setting that produces too fine a mist you will simply turn the fungi into mush, killing the fungi. Using large dropletts allows the fungi to be applies without killing them. This is a good thing. Clean your bucket, hoses, and aristones after each batch with clean water and a little hydrogen paroxyde. Do not use Clorox bleach. Clorox has added an ingredient that is designed to keep the bleach on stuff longer. This addative makes it difficult to fully remove the bleach film. Obviously, bleach is not something you want in your bucket or on your airstones the next time you go to make a batch of tea. I know I went way beyond just what kind of water is best, but I figured there might be people who are interested in the whole process. Sorry if I turned a simple question into a novel. The short version: one 5 gal bucket - lid is optional. unchlorinated water an aquarium pump (minimum 60gph) and three aristones. My airpump came with hoses. a three-line gangline paint filter bags (package of two cost .95 at DoIt Center) unsulphered molasses. I bought 1gal at Smart and Final for $16. a little twine Extras: fish emulsion or fish hydrolisate, seaweed. Total cost, not including fish emulsion or seaweed = $48.00. Bucket, pump, airstones, gangline, paint filter bags and chloramine drops.If my city used chlorine I could drop $12 off the price tag. If I used a splitter in stead of a gangline I could drop anothe $9. Tom

I don't make compost tea but do make lots of alfalfa tea. It can (and some people say it should) be stinky. However I did a small experiment with it by blasting a bit of water into the bucket with the hose nozzle every day and it never did get stinky. Even alfalfa tea that had already turned smelly lost it's noxious odor and just smelled a bit fermented. I initially start with the buckets partially full so I can add water every day. As I use it I continue to blast aerated water into the buckets daily and don't have to smell that awful odor. Might work with compost tea also.

I started making and using compost tea about two months ago after a wonderful Texas lady named Janet told me about it. She has a lot more space than I do and brews without aeration and has a bucke for each row of her garden. I have only two buckets worth of space so I did more research. Searching on Compost Tea will give you many links and everyone of them are different. I stuck with the ones not trying to sell me anything. My compost tea made my plants grow faster, transplant better, and now I hope also to produce better! I do not have a compost pile ready to use so I buy a bag of compost instead. I put a small coffee can of compost into cheese cloth and tie or rubberband it together to make a tea bag. I fill a five gallon bucket with water (not all the way to the top or it will spill over) then I drop a fish pond pump with a one inch hose connected to it in the bottom and let it bubble for 24 hours. This is supposed to help remove chlorine and other chemicals from the tap water-same principal you use to refill an aquarium! At the end of the 24 hours I dump my compost tea bag into the water, add about 1/4 cup of molasses ( all I can find here is liquid at grocery store, make sure it is unsulphered) If you have dry molasses ad a handful or so. Let it bubble for another 24 hours. Find something to drain the tea bag with, I use a flat from Lowes that plants came in sitting across the top of the bucket and I let it drip as much as it will. When done, I turn off the pump and use one of those battery operated sprayers made to replace the caps on things like bug spray, and I spray away until it is gone. Note I did have to tie cloth around the sprayer end that sits in the water because it gets clogged even when using the teabag. You can add other things as your plants need before spraying such as fish emulsion, kelp, seaweed, corn meal (whatever your plant needs)or add them at the beginning of the brew, you can even add miricle grow. I spray both the foliage and water the soil with it. The addition of molasses seems to have chased off a nasty colony of huge black ants I had building a city in my back yard and making my weeping willow into a nursery! Oh and after you untie your compost tea bag, use whats in there to mulch with or throw it in your compost pile. There is also a company that makes reuseable mesh bags for this that I think were about $5 each. I may buy some later but for now with drought and no work, I will stick with an old tshirt or cheesecloth! If you would like to see how my garden grows here in Villa Rica GA, it is out of control, and I have never had this kind of growth in any kind of garden, check out my myspace page...look for pics, albumns, garden albumn and then the tomato plants, you can also see my friends garden and we started seed at the same time and put plants into the garden at same time. His are disturbingly samll and need some attention while mine are overgrown and lush and beautiful! I definitely recomend compost tea! http://www.myspace.com/kelleyville Here is a link that might be useful: Kelleyvilles's myspace page for garden pics!

Aerated compost teas are the latest in scientific organic research today. In many ways, aerated teas offer greater immediate benefits than classic compost, manure, or other homemade foliar teas. Just by applying a cheap aquarium air pump to a 5 gallon bucket of tea, you can get amazing results. (Cheap, inexpensive aquarium airstones are also recommended to be applied to the hose in the water. This produces a better distribution of smaller air bubbles to make the aerobic soil/comosting microbes breed better.) Instead of just brewing teas for quick valuable water soluble nutrients from the compost or manure, you can breed a larger population of beneficial aerobic bacteria and fungi in the tea. It is the microherd in our soil, compost, and teas, that is really more important in soil development and disease control than just the soluble nutrients. Aerobic microherd populations reduce offensive smells in compost piles, the compost teas, and the soil. Aerobic microherd also break down bad poisons and pathogens into safe nutrients in hot compost piles and aerated compost teas. Diluted anaerobic compost or manure teas are great liquid fertilizers and disease controllers also. Many people prefer the anaerobic teas better because they are simpler and easier to design and apply. However, recent research has proven that the aerobic microherd populations fight diseases and bad soil and plant pathogens better and supply more power to your soil's total health and texture. Keep in mind that all types of organic and natural foliar teas are designed to complement and enhance, not replace, basic composting, green manuring, and organic mulching techinques in your garden. The soil microherd continue over months and years to eat up insoluble OM in the existing soil and the extra soil amendments and break them down into more available soluble nutrients for plants later in the year. Technically even in un-aerated teas there is still some aerobic action taking place for several days. All fungi is aerobic. Some bacteria are totally aerobic, some bacteria are totally anaerobic, and some bacteria can act both aerobic or anerobic based on the soil or tea environment. Un-aerated teas can continue to keep alive some aerobic or aerobic/anaerobic microbes, for up to 10 days in a watery solution. After 10 days, the whole un-aerated tea will contain only anerobic microbes. You can expect different microbial population levels in your tea based on weather, climate, temperature, seasons, etc. In the summertime you can expect your teas to brew faster and get to your optimal microbial levels faster than in cooler fall weather. Also tea odors, color, and foaminess on top of the tea, will vary based on temperatures too. ************************************************************ There are several different levels of teas as well as different recipes and styles. Here is the simple steps as outlined by one of our own GardwenWeb members who is an expert on teas and compost. This is a brief description of the different strength levels of tea making as outlined by "BILL_G" : Level 1: Put a shovel full of good compost in a 5 gallon bucket of water, wait one week, and apply to garden or lawn either full strength or up to a 1:4 water ratio. This is an excellent source of ready available soluble nutrients. NOTE: If you stir your brew daily or every other day, it helps get more oxygen to the mix for better decomposition and better aerobic microbial population growth. Level 2: Do same as above, but now add to the recipe a few cups of alfalfa pellets or some other cattle feed. Now you have extra nitrogen and trace elements from the bacterial foods. Level 3: Do all above plus now add the air pump bubbler. Now you have more aerobic microbes to add to your soluble nutrients in the tea. Level 4: Do all the above and now add a few tblsp of molasses or other simple sugar products. Now you really maximize the aerobic microbes in the tea, which in turn produce even more extra soluble nutrients from the bacterial foods. ********************************************************** Here is my suggestions also. You can add more high nitrogen foods in the tea. Remember the only main ingredients that are necessary to make a good bacterial and soluble nutrients tea are: aerobic compost and sugar products. Everything else is optional. Your teas can be as creative as you are. Let's assume a 5 gallon tea recipe for our example: 1. Add 1/2 bucket of finished hot compost. This supplies most of the beneficial aerobic microbes and soluble nutrients. Some people use slightly immature aerobic compost because it has more fresh nitrogen in it, but less microbes than finished hot compost. 2. Use 2-3 tblsp molasses, brown sugar, or corn syrup. This feeds and breeds the aerobic bacteria. Sugar products are mostly carbon which is what the microherd eat quickly. Add about 1-2 more tblsp of molasses for every 3 days of aerobic brewing to make sure the sugar is digested before touching the soil at application time, and to guarantee that the aerobic bacteria population stays strong throughout the brewing process. Molasses also contains sulfur which is a mild natural fungicide. Molasses is also a great natural deodorizer for fishy teas. For a more fungal tea don't add too much simple sugar or molasses to your aerobic teas. Use more complex sugars, starches and carbohydrates like in seaweed, rotten fruit, soy sauce, or other fungal foods. 3. Add 1-2 cans of mackerel, sardines, or other canned fish. Supplied extra NPK, fish oil for beneficial fungi, calcium from fish bones. Most commercial fish emulsions contain no fish oils and little to no aerobic bacteria. Fresh fish parts can be used, but because of offensive odors, it should composted separately with browns like sawdust first before adding to the tea brew. NOTE: For those organic gardeners who prefer vegetarian soil amendments, you can skip the fishy ingredients, it's not necessary. There is plenty of NPK in alfalfa meal and other grains that you can use. (NOTE: If you use canned fish products, you may want to let it decompose mixed with some finished compost, good garden soil, etc. in a separate closeable container for a few days before using. Since most canned meat products contain preservatives, this will guarantee that the good microbes in the tea will not be killed off or harmed in brew making.) 4. Add 1 pack fresh seaweed. Supplies all extra trace elements. Seaweed can contain about 60 trace elements and lots of plant growth hormones. Seaweed is a beneficial fungal food source for soil microbes. Liquifying the seaweed makes it dissolve even faster. 5. Add 1-2 cups of alfalfa meal, corn meal, cattle feed, horse feed, catfish or pond fish feed. Supplies extra proteins and bacteria. Corn meal is a natural fungicide and supplies food for beneficial fungi in the soil. 6. Add rotten fruit for extra fungal foods. Add green weeds to supply extra bacterial foods to the tea. 7. Good ole garden soil is an excellent free biostimulant. Garden soil is full of beneficial aerobic bacteria, fungi, and other great microbes. Some people make a great microbial tea just out of soil. Forest soil is usually higher in beneficial fungi than rich garden soil. 8. Fill the rest of the container with rainwater, compost tea, or plain de-chlorinated water to almost the top of bucket. You can make good "rain water" from tap water by adding a little Tang (citrus acid) to the water mix before brewing. Urine water is also an excellent organic nitrogen source for teas (up to 45% N). 9. Some people like to add 1-2 tblsp of apple cider vinegar to add about 30 extra trace minerals and to add the little acidicity that is present in commercial fish emulsions. Many fish emulsions contain up to 5% sulfuric acid to help it preserve on the shelf and add needed sulfur to the soil. You can add extra magnesium and sulfur by adding 1-2 tblsp of Epsom salt to the tea. 10. Apply the air pump to the tea. NOTE: Some organic tea brewers prefer not to use the air pump method. You can get some extra oxygen in the tea by stirring it daily or every other day. The air pump just makes the oxygen levels in the tea happen faster than by hand, thus greatly increasing the rate of aerobic microbial growth in the tea. If you prefer to use the air pump, let it bubble and brew for at least 1-3 days. (NOTE: The 3 days limit is just a good guideline. The real test of brewing time is by your own sight and smell test, because everybody's tea is different due to the various microbial species and breeding activity that takes place during the brewing process.) The aerobic tea is ready to use when it has either an earthy or "yeasty" smell or a foamy layer on top of the tea. If not satisfied with the look or the smell of the tea, go up to a week of brewing. The extra brewing time will help the microbes digest more of the insoluble bacterial and fungal foods in the tea and make it more available for your plant's or your soil's nutritional needs. Apply this tea full strength to get full nutrient levels per plant, or dilute it from a 1:1 down to a 1:5 water ratio to spread the beneficial microbes over a 1-acre garden area (mix 5 gallons of tea per 25 gallons of rainwater). To reduce straining, you can place all your ingredients in a closed panty hose or laundry bag during the brewing cycle (don't use a too fine mesh bag or the beneficial fungi can't flow properly through the bag). Here's another method to avoid straining and to maximize the amount of microbes in application: Simply turn off the air pump, stir the entire mixture real hard, and then let the mixture sit still for about 30 minutes. Scoop off the top juice straight into a watering can for application. You can apply with a watering can, or simple cup, or in a sprinkling system. All compost teas can be used as a foliar feed or soil drench around plants. They also make great compost pile nitrogen and bacterial activators to heat up the pile for faster finished composting. Always take the remains for teas and recycle them back into your compost piles. As stated, you can use your homemade tea as a foliar feed or as a soil drench or both. Soil drenches are best for building up the soil microbial activities and supplying lots of beneficial soluble NPK to the plant's root system and the topsoil texture. Foliar feeds are best for quick fixes of trace elements and small portions of other soluble nutrients into the plant through its leaves. Foliar feeds are also good for plant disease control. Foliar feeds work best when used with soil drenches or with lots of organic mulches around plants. You can poke holes in the soil around crop roots with your spade fork, to get more oxygen in the soil to further increase organic matter decomposition and increase microbial activity in the soil. Aerated teas can also be used to greatly speed up the decomposition process of hot compost piles. The extra aerobic microbes in the tea will breed and cooperate with the aerobic microbes in the organic matter in the compost pile. You should not use any liquid soaps as a spreader-sticker agent in a fertilizing/biostimulant tea like this. It can hinder or harm your aerobic microbes that you just grew in the tea. You need to use better products in your tea like liquid molasses, dry molasses powder, fish oil, or yucca extract as a spreader-sticker. A good aerated tea is very economical. 5 gallons can be diluted to biostimulate an entire acre of garden via foliar spraying only. If you soil drench only, it takes at least 15 gallons of tea, before diluting, to cover an acre of garden soil. Also there is enough aerobic bacteria and fungi in a good 5 gallon batch of aerated tea, that is the equivalent of about 10 tons or 40 cubic yards of regular compost! These homemade aerated compost teas are just as powerful, maybe more powerful, than any commercial natural or organic fertilizer or soil amendment on the market today. And they are a lot cheaper too! So have fun, be creative, and keep on composting! Happy Gardening!