Granted I can't see the entire plant in that photo, but what I can see of those leaves doesn't look that out-of-the ordinary. Yes, those lower leaves look a bit yellow and I can see a few marks, but those are also the oldest leaves. They have some age and some battle scares, but I don't see anything to freak out about. My question would be about the newest leaves. Are they in good condition? If they are, I wouldn't worry. Remember the leaves on the bottom will eventually turn yellow and die as part of the normal process. Maybe they're starting to do that now. Yes, at one point in my past life, I grew a whole crap-load of phals. Had some of them for over 10 years as a matter of fact. K

I agree that it's about preference. However, I believe some people don't want to cut because they are reluctant to give up what they have-- a flower or two-- for some pie in the sky about "next year's" beautiful spike. So I want to add that last May I bought three in bloom phals from Odoms and Norman's. Very beautiful, but after about two months two started to have only a few flowers on the ends of the spike. I thought them ugly and cut them off. That was about July. The third had only dying flowers when I got it and that spike was cut right away. With good light all summer, all three put out *two* new spikes in the fall and are blooming now. One has been blooming since January on two spikes. Another bloomed for four months last October thru February, and then put out two more spikes. The one with spent flower last May has been blooming on two beautiful spikes since about February, and the spikes are still full and beautiful after three months. The longest I had to wait for new spikes to start was three or four months. The longest I had to wait for flowers was about 9 months. So my point is that if you cut the spike back on a nice big plant like the one you have, *and give it plenty of light*, you will get new spikes starting in a *few months*, not necessarily "next year", and those spikes will stay full and beautiful for at least a couple of months, or with all those branches, maybe longer. I personally think you'll enjoy the thrill of your very own new spike, and the beauty of a fully branching spike, but it's your call.

Based on my experience for winter/spring blooming phals.. Most winter/spring blooming phals need a couple of weeks of an @15 degree temp drop between day and night temps in the fall. Notice I said a 15 degree difference, not down to 50 or 55, so if you normally run at 75-80 during the day, 60-65 at night should induce spikes on winter/spring bloomers. They also need enough light through rest of the year to get good healthy growth to support spikes, good light for a month or so in the fall ain't enough. And finally, an overall good fert/watering routine to keep things healthy and growing strong. Also a lot of species orchids/primary hybrids bloom in the summer, so you need to understand what you have and when it normally spikes/blooms. I agree with Jane in that it looks like it is dehydrated and the roots don't look too bad. Try keeping it damper or watering a little more often. DANGER WARNING!!!!!: In a dry office environment I've found that leaving a little water (1/2") in the cache pot for a day or so seems to really help in keeping moisture around the roots. Be VERY VERY careful here though, be sure to drain the cache pot after a day or so and never let it sit in water for more than 1 day. Good luck, Bob

Grace, clip a whole rosette from the aloe with stem tissue. sprinkle cinnamon on the fresh cut and then mist it every once and a while. till you see the yellow roots forming. Then dirt and gentle watering. One Can not water it till it has roots. I have had the rosettes out in the air in shade for months till the roots formed and they are still alive. Sometimes it takes awhile and sometimes it is quick. It depends on the time of year. Springtime is the best. I have clipped in late fall and they hung around till spring to root. I have placed them in piled rocks because that gives a damp atmosphere, but perfect drainage. some will put it in a gritty dirt and mist till they feel resistance to a gentle tug. I am not talking about your specific aloe , but aloes in general.