All of a sudden lawnmower won't start
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10 years ago
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bill_kapaun
10 years agoUser
10 years agoRelated Discussions
Husqvarna 455 chainsaw won't start
Comments (15)Sounds like you are sucking air somewhere if the choke is needed to run. 1. Is the carb on good flat and tight? A simple test (âÂÂmight beâÂÂ) to spray WD-40 using the ext stem and low pressure at the carb to case connection all around while running (to see if the RPM changes if a leak is sniffed out). 2. âÂÂALLâ fuel line connections s/b extremely tight to ensure they are air tight (vs easily slipping on or off). 3. I think we are getting close and if so, you have to try and evaluate where all of this started to possibly prevent a repeat. Such as, is the saw showing to have year to year quality for others? Was the fuel treated for storage to protect moisture from the saw? Is the fuel carefully added w/o âÂÂany" fine sawdust close to the tankâÂÂs opening? 4. Post a good close pic of the carb and fuel line connections. I'll pull on the lines to ck the fits. LOL. I possibly will see if they look tight. Thank the North TX snow for the time!...See MoreBlower/vac won't start........
Comments (19)Woodsrunner, I bought a 19-inch magnesium deck Lawn Boy lawnmower in the mid 60's and I spent more time working on that thing than running it. Within a couple of years I had bought the factory service manual for it and, with that, I knew enough to be dangerous. When it was running, it was very powerful for it's weight. I bought a spare blade so I could always have a freshly sharpened blade and spare air cleaners as well. When it was running it could buzz through the thickest bermuda grass and its light weight made it very easy to handle. But it taught me to hate two-cycle engines. As the years wore on I bought all kinds of spare parts for it, including a new rope pull assembly (that thing got pulled an awful lot), a new carburetor and, surprise, surprise, a new reed valve assembly. If I ever buy a new lawn mower it will definitely have a 4-cycle engine. I grudgingly accepted a 2-cycle engine on my Stihl MS 361 chain saw, but if that thing ever goes on the fritz I am definitely taking it back to my Stihl dealer to have it worked on. Sharpening the chain and adjusting its tension and cleaning the saw and bar is all of the work I do on that saw. You seem to have covered all the basic stuff on your Ryobi. If it were a 4-cycle it would definitely be purring by now. Have you had it apart enough to inspect the reed valve? A reed failed on my Lawn Boy apparently due to simple metal fatigue and that stopped it cold. But I could see the cracked reed. If you plan to have an ongoing relationship with your Ryobi, maybe you should order a shop manual for it. But only if you want it to be your new hobby. I have no idea how you can test the electronic control module other than buy a spare and put it on. And that approach can run into money. Is there any chance your Ryobi 340 BV is still in warranty? If you bought it from Home Depot, maybe you can take it back and simply return it for a refund or a replacement. MM...See MoreHelp! Craftsman mower won't start Mystery!!!
Comments (13)Tomplum is spot on there. I have repaired "worst case" problems (where plastic connector melts or breaks) by replacing the connector assembly with individual, insulated wire spade terminals. But using the individual terminals means you have to be absolutely certain you understand exactly where each wire is supposed to go. To release a spade terminal from the connector body, insert a small screwdriver into the business end of the connector (in the direction indicated by red arrow) to depress the locking tab that secures the terminal to a lock notch in the plastic. While holding the locking tab down with the release tool (screwdriver), gently pull on the wire at the back end of the connector. If the release tool is in place properly, and the connector is not melted, the wire and terminal will slip easily out of the connector. I have also had success with just cleaning and tightening the terminal by ever so slightly closing the gap of the terminal with a small pair of pliers. Cleaning can be done using a small, stiff sliver of sand paper inserted into the open end of the terminal, but it requires patience.If the terminal has a dark or blackish appearance, don't even try to clean it.....it has been hot and is no good now. Replace it....See MoreDYT 4000 won't start, how much damage did my brother do?
Comments (21)Still guessing, but I try to add some more things to do. Do you hear anything when you crank it with the plugs out?? does it hesitate or have a hitch in the rotation when you have the plugs out?? Any hitch or hesitation will be mulitiplied with the plugs in especially if you hear any noise. things I would look for. Remove the starter and look at the bendix teeth, look at the flywheel teeth. Do a compression check (compression should be atleast around 100 PSI). this will tell you that the valve seat and valves are sealing and closing, Doing one cylinder at a time may also narrow the problem down to one or the other if the engine stops rotating when checking compression which may lead to a connecting rod problem. If you got good compression and the engine spins with plugs out and no unusual noises or hesitations and the drive belt and elect pto clutch aren't binding. Then I would suspect the starter, usually starters last quite awhile, but unless your are an electronic's expert your guessing. Starter is a high dollar item unless you find a used one or one on ebay for at least 1/2 price. Before I replace the starter I would go ove the battery cables again checking for any corossion (on the cables internally) and points of contact I would also jump across the starter solonoid to illimate that. I'm out of guesses or procedures unless you come up with something else. If it was me I would try another starter before I tore into the engine unless I found some evidents of a rotating part problem. I not that familar with V-twin Kohlers, but it still should have valve covers (usually the cover can be reinstalled using the old gasket unless you tear if when removing it) which you can remove and watch the valve action when cranking the engine with the plugs out if you have no compression in one cylinder, if you have good compression (in both cylinders) and no noises then the rotating internal part could be ilimated. I know another tool you probably haven't got, but you really have to have basic tools multi-meter, compression kit, vacuum gauge to have a chance to narrow some problems down....See Moretomplum
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