Have an ATV mounted Agri-Fab snow blower with the Snow King and after spending days trying to find the air intake filter (could it possibly be at the choke butterfly valve in?) was relieved to learn here I wasn't going crazy and indeed it was. I used the blower just two weekends ago when we had light snow and it started fine. Then, after our weekend blizzard, when I needed it the most, no start. Good spark, new plug, etc. Will try tapping the bowl. Spark plug is not wet when removed. It has fresh gas, had used it and had SeaFoam in it. Have too big an area to use the walk behind snow blower. Did I mention this was new earlier this year? Not happy they didn't sell it with electric start. Is it possible to add this feature to this engine? Thanks

My bet is there is still ice or a fastner holding the impeller. Maybe damage was also done to the belt as it was attempting to turn the auger pulley. If the impeller is free, you should be able to turn the big pulley-which in turn should turn the auger. Maybe even take a bar or pipe and a hammer thru the chute and tap on the impeller (with reasonable force) to see if it will break free. If you would have damaged the gear box, they don't as a rule bind up-rather strip the worm gear inside- tho it is possible. Good luck.

Just to say that you're referring to Yellow Brandywine ( Platfoot) so folks don't think it's a Brandywine, which is pink. Seeds to me from Gary Platfoot of Ohio who lives near where Yellow Bandywine was first known and named and a strain that I and others hgave found to be much better than the seeds circulating for Yellow Brandyine. I've had many varieties that continues to produce well and do so until they were cut down by a hard frost. If I let the weeds go they could protect from a light frost by taking the brunt of that, but not a hard frost. So I take it no frosts in you area yet. (So my question - is this just what happens when a plant never catches blight? Do all tomatoes have this potential, or is this plant a genetic anomaly? Of course, I saved seeds so I can at least try to answer this question next year, but does anyone have any input or had a similar experience with a plant that just wouldn't quit?) I think it depends on which specific diseases you refer to when you say blight since that word is often used to indicate a sick tomato plant. Where I live we don't have serious problems with soilborne systemic diseases, but do have the common foliage pathogens. And I do find that most of my PL varieties tend to do better with the foliage pathogens and have suggested in the past that it could be due to the thicker epidermis of PL leaves. But I have absolutely no proof of that and while some would agree with me, some wouldn't. So near the end of the season I can see many PL varieties hanging in there while those with certain foliage infections have bit the dust. Hope that helps. Carolyn

Thanks! Yes, I did see that thread and from that deemed it was too late to save my plant (the yellowing had spread through all nodes), but I'm still very interested in what might have caused the yellowing in the first place. My initial thought is that it reacted badly to the tapwater I gave it, and then even after I switched to rainwater / "spring" water (?), the yellowing may have continued since I didn't cut off the rotting sections. I'm afraid that if I buy another the same thing may happen, and I'd love advice or confirmation on my hypothesis! If I use bottled water from the start, think it'd be ok? Are there any other circumstances I am unaware of that would cause yellowing?