Hi everyone, please help..This rooted cutting is 5 months old. One of the leaves is turning yellow? I am preparing to repot this plumeria now that it is summer here in Montana. This leaf was green and now it is yellow? any ideas?

I meant to say turning purple not yellow... Here is a link that might be useful: My tomato pics

Hello! I'm new to the forums, but I got such excellent help regarding one of my orchids that I'm returning. I just found this 5'9 fiddle leaf fig for sale at the local second hand shop for 29$, and I couldn't resist. I've just discovered this forum, and I've read about the importance of soil composition and the difference of a true repot vs just moving to a larger pot, and a lot of other things. So a bit of a lightbulb moment. Now I'm asking if you think my plan for this fig will work. The situation: The leaves are looking a bit dry and some are also a little yellow. The pot looks like someone bought it and never changed pot or soil at all. It looks very root bound. I can't discern any bugs or other kind of disease, as far as I can tell anyway. I have not taken it out of the pot yet, so I don't know the exact root situation. My home at the moment unfortunately has rather small windows, and I'm not sure the light will be enough, but perhaps if I can make everything else close to perfect, it will work? We will change windows in a couple of months though, so perhaps that will make a difference. My plan: I'm going out to buy some ingredient for Al's 5-1-1 mix as I'm not sure I, or the plant, is ready for a gritty mix. I've found a larger ceramic pot (with draining holes, of course) for it, and will repot. But, should I trim the roots? And if I do, should I prune the plant in order for the root system to be able to care for the remaining leaves? My dream vision is a healthy plant with a thick trunk and several branches, so I'll need to trim at some point. Were/How high should I trim? Or should I wait with the trimming? And how do I encourage the top to root? Lots of questions, now here's some pictures

That's a physiological issue that occurs when your plant takes up water from the soil with dissolved minerals (salts) in it. Some of that water, with salt dissolved in it, makes it to the surface of the leaf. When the water evaporates, it leaves behind the salt it contains as a little white powdery dot. This is also harmless, but could be a signal that the level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil is creeping upward. If you witness it, you might try flushing the soil thoroughly - especially if you've been watering in small sips so the plant doesn't have to deal with soil saturation. That particular way of watering ensures that all salts from your tapwater and fertilizer solutions remain in the soil where they can create quite a bit of mischief. The salt deposits on the leaves will rub right off with a damp cloth or paper towel. If the dots don't wipe off, suspect another physiological issue called oedema. Oedema Oedema is a physiological disorder that can affect all plants. It occurs when the plant takes up more water than it can rid itself of via the process of transpiration. The word itself means 'swelling', which is usually the first symptom, and comes in the form of pale blisters or water-filled bumps on foliage. Under a variety of circumstances/cultural conditions, a plant's internal water pressure (turgidity) can become so high that some leaf cells rupture and leak their contents into inter-cellular spaces in leaf tissue, creating wet or weepy areas. Symptoms vary by plant, but as the malady progresses, areas of the leaf turn yellow, brown, brown with reddish overtones or even black, with older damage appearing as corky/ scaly/ ridged patches, or wart/gall-like bumpy growth. Symptoms are seen more frequently in plants that are fleshy, are usually more pronounced on the underside of leaves, and older/lower leaves are more likely to be affected than younger/upper leaves. Oedema is most common in houseplants during the winter/early spring months, is driven primarily by excessive water retention in the soil, and can be intensified via several additional cultural influences. Cool temperatures, high humidity levels, low light conditions, or partial defoliation can individually or collectively act to intensify the problem, as can anything else that slows transpiration. Nutritional deficiencies of Ca and Mg are also known contributors to the malady. Some things that can help you prevent oedema: * Increase light levels and temperature * Monitor water needs carefully – avoid over-watering. I'd heartily recommend a soil with drainage so sharp (fast) that when you to water to beyond the saturation point you needn't worry about prolonged periods of soil saturation wrecking root health/function. Your soil choice should be a key that unlocks the solutions to many potential problems. * Avoid misting or getting water on foliage. It slows transpiration and increases turgidity. * Water as soon as you get up in the AM. When stomata close in preparation for the dark cycle, turgidity builds. If you water early in the day, it gives the plant an opportunity to remove (for its own needs) some of the excess water in the soil. * Put a fan in the room or otherwise increase air flow/circulation. Avoid over-crowding your plants. Al