Arthurm, that is quite a photo! My conditions could not be more different, however, my cymbidiums stay outdoors 365. Usually in the yard, but if the temperatures drop much below 18F/-8C I put them under the patio cover, which probably stays 5 degrees warmer. Buds can tolerate temperatures well into the low 20sF/-5C or so without damage - much below that, the outermost ones start to get frostbite. The problem here, of course, is providing enough chilling for most to bloom. My growing tips: grow potbound in pure, fresh horse manure. Run water through this mix daily for the first month or so to leach out the salts. Even the standards thrive, in full sun, foliage-wise, in our buoyant heat and humidity during the 10 months of summer. Getting flowers is another story. Cheers - Nancy

They could be any number of caterpiller, larvae, etc... without pics and more info it would be difficult to make an exact ID. I simply pinch them between my fingers when I find them. They are probably some type of sawfly larvae, at least that is what I get here. The ones I typically get are green with whitish spots down the length of their body. Sawflies are a small non-stinging type of wasp. Adult sawflies are not a problem, but the larvae are. Sawfly larvae are also called Roseslugs. They feed from May to September for 2-3 weeks when they are in larval stage, and then they change into adult flies and the feeding stops. The reason they are called roseslugs because of their slug-like appearance. The larvae also resemble caterpillars, but they are not true caterpillars. There are several types of sawflies that attack roses as larvae. The bristly roseslug is a major pest on roses. The larvae are pale green, with a brownish-orange head and very small, bristlelike hairs. They skeletonize the leaf from the underside when small, and then chew holes through the leaf as they enlarge. The curled rose sawfly occurs in lesser numbers, but each one can cause relatively substantial damage. The curled rose sawfly larvae skeletonize leaves when small and eat the whole leaf, except the main vein, when large. To make matters worse, when they pupate they bore into the pith of twigs, killing portions of the twig and opening it up for fungal infections. The larva has a yellowish head with black eye spots, and a pastel green body with white dots down the length of it. The roseslug is the third type of sawfly to occur on roses. It looks somewhat similar to the bristly roseslug, but lacks the hairs. It skeletonizes the upper surface of a leaf. Easiest way to treat them, is to mechanically pluck them off and squish them. If the damage is widespread across many rose bushes in your garden and a lot of damage is being sustained, chemical control should be considered. Just about any contact insecticide labeled for use on roses will kill the roseslugs. Try to use the least toxic one possible, because you don't want to kill beneficial insects in your garden.

I have heard that all kinds of ants go after the honeydew left by other insects. But I've never heard of ants actually damaging blooms. I hope the spray solves your bug problems. Debra

Here are some Phalaenopsis notes written for Sydney. Outside is fraught with danger in Melbourne too. Winter is too cool and those summer days with the hot north west wind blowing will frizzle your Phalaenopsis. 60 to 90 is the range on the old fashioned temperature scale. Most will form a new bloom spike late autumn/early winter and then it is 100 days to the first bloom. Phalaenopsis Culture These notes relate to Phalaenopsis culture in the Sydney area. These orchids cannot be grown outside in the yard or in a shade-house because winter minimum temperatures are too low and some summer maximum temperatures are too high. These temperature problems plus low humidity mean that special housing to meet Phalaenopsis needs is required, or the plants should be grown inside your home. Culture within the home Finding the right place to put the plant. Your plant needs bright light, humidity levels of about 60% and temperatures where both you and the plant will be comfortable. That rules out one place that is often suggested, the bathroom. Another place that is not good is one of those small closed in sunrooms where dry winter air is heated and the humidity levels are too low. My plants are on the windowsill of a large airy kitchen. Winter temperatures range from 12C to 18C each day and a fibreglass blind protects the plants from all but a few hours of gentle sun in winter. Do not expose the plant to harsh direct sunlight because the leaves of the plant will burn. Early morning sun is best, but late afternoon sun is also OK provided it is screened as described above. Humidity Some people recommend spraying the plants with water every day to raise humidity. This is not necessary because the humidity level in most homes is about 60%. You may wish to place the plant on a humidity tray containing pebbles and water. This is not necessary either, but will not cause harm, provided the bottom of the pot is not sitting in water. Watering Frequency depends on the potting material and the atmosphere in the house but as a general guide once a week in winter grading to two or three times a week in summer. Potting material should be kept moist but not sopping wet. Make sure no water is left sitting in the crown of the plant for an extended period, as the plant may rot. Use a tissue to soak up excess water. Fertilizing Use complete liquid fertilizer with every third watering, but only at half the prescribed strength. Wet the foliage as well. Repotting Every two years in late spring. Use specially prepared orchid bark, not Cymbidium mix. Try not to disturb the roots too much and just replace some of the older bark. Do not be in hurry to put the plant in a larger pot, because like most orchids, the plants seem to do better in a slightly pot-bound condition. Do not worry about some roots growing outside the pot. That is a good sign. Treatment of flowering stem When the flowers are nearly finished, you can cut the stem off just below the lowest flower and the plant may produce a new flowering shoot from the node just below the cut. BUT, note that most experienced growers cut the stem off at the base so the plant will put all its energy into growing new leaves, and therefore will produce better flowers next time. Making the plant flower The plant should produce a new flowering stem in late autumn as the temperatures drop. Some growers induce flowering by watering the plant with Epsom salts (Magnesium Sulfate) once a week several times in autumn. The amount of Epsom salts required is one tablespoon full in a bucket of water. Pests and diseases Your plant should remain pest and disease free in the home environment. Fungal disease which shows up as black spots on the leaves is a symptom of over-watering. Cut back on the watering a bit and seek help from a nursery orgarden centre if the problem persists. Phalaenopsis are also susceptible to mealy bugs, which are small, white, fluffy looking bugs that live on the undersides of leaves or between the leaf bracts on the central stem. Use either White Oil or Pyrethrum to remove these pests. More than one application may be required, so if you see another bug, spray again. If you use White Oil, make sure to move the plant out of direct sunlight for a few days otherwise the leaves may burn.