Stripped & seized oil drain plug help!
kevinkeli
15 years ago
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Comments (14)
rustyj14
15 years agobill_kapaun
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Snapper push mower oil change help please
Comments (9)I resolved the problem on my mower as follows: I put together an oil drain extension in place of the engine drain plug at the lower left side of the Kawasaki FJ180V 6.0 engine. I can now drain the oil through it by leaning the mower on the left side. The oil filter is on the same side, so any oil drippings when changing it can go into a catch pan. I used the following five parts to replace the original plastic drain plug: Kawasaki Part # 59071-7004  This thread adapter screws into the engine and accepts NPTF 3/8" pipe thread. It replaces the original plastic drain plug on the left side of the engine. Kawasaki "O" ring (16mm)  This is used on the above adapter. It is the same part as the one on the original plastic drain plug. Brass Pipe Bushing: 3/8" MIP x ¼" FIP.  This reduces the 3/8" pipe thread down to ¼". Brass Pipe Nipple: ¼"MIP x 2".  This extends the drain to where it can be easily used. Brass Pipe Cap: ¼" FIP  This is the final drain cap at the end of the 2" pipe nipple. This all clears the oil filter hardware and the fuel line to the carburetor from the fuel tank. Total cost, about $12. Charles Ranheim...See MoreHelp draining oil on Trucut Honda GC135?
Comments (10)Let me start by saying I don't have much GC135/GC160/GC190 experience, but I am familiar with drain plug issues on Tru-Cut as well as Trimmer and other manufacturers. On many machines where a Briggs was fitted by the manufacturer, the engine would only have a forward drain which would interfere with the clutches. The drain pipe plug would be replaced with an Allen type pipe plug, which was still inaccessable, meaning either the engine had to be removed, or in some cases the whole machine tipped to drain thru the fill port. I'm sure you've done this, but most Honda engines (older G series and the commercial GX's) have drains at front and rear. Is this a possibility on your GC? Second, can you tip the mower up, and drain out of the fill tube. It's clumsy and inelegant, but if you have one person hold the catch container while you tip the mower, you should be able to drain everything and still not spill. This is very common on many vertical shaft rotary engines which no longer have a below deck drain plug. Lastly, after the engine is out of warranty, and if you don't have a rear drain plug, you might consider removing engine, removing side cover, and drilling and tapping rear boss to install a second drain plug. You have to be careful to capture all chips and ensure that threads are properly formed....See MoreSeized Engine?
Comments (8)Maybe I exaggerated. The oil I removed was dirty, but it did flow - not like syrup or anything. Air cleaner was not cleaned/replaced on a regular basis. No symptoms before the current condition. Engine was running. Stopped to empty bag, then the rope wouldn't pull (actually the neighbor had borrowed it, so now he feels bad). Nothing wrapped around the crank - all cleaned up at present so I don't feel like too much of a "dork" when I take it to the repair shop. Just changing the oil made a big difference in ability to pull the starter rope. Can pull it repeatedly, but it's still a hard pull, and isn't close to catching and starting up....See MoreDid I seize my 9HP Briggs Vanguard Engine?
Comments (27)Man oh man you guys are gonna kick my bu** when you hear this. Okay, so I drain the gas out of the BCS walk behind tractor and bring it into the garage to dismount the engine. My buddy and I unbolt the engine and it comes off with the dry clutch attached. We notice that there is a lot of grey aluminum shavings inside the case...hmmm. We look closer and staring back at us, hanging out of the clutch is this 2" long set screw that has come loose, backed its way out and is grinding against the inside of the case. This caused the screeching, the stalling and the grinding feeling when turning it over. How putting MMO in the cylinder freed up this *seize* is a mystery to me but at the time it sure seemed like it did. I was happy to find this cause it meant that the engine is still good. The next day we got hit with a snow storm so I rushed to put it back together. The set screw got a few drops of LocTite blue just to be sure it dont come out again. Actually I was a little over zealous and broke the allen head on that set screw when I tightened it...hope I dont have to take it out. I also managed to cross thread one of the 4 mounting points on the engine pto side, forgot how delicate the cast aluminum threads are...mixed up some 15 min epoxy and put the bolt back in. By the time I got her all back together there was 5" of powder snow on the driveway. I put gas in the tank and she fired right up - not having the drag of the set screw cutting a rabbet into the aluminum case sure helps things a lot ;-) . It works fine. Thanks to all of you for all your help and suggestions expecially *mownie* who said back in the beginning "....Check the components that deliver the engine power to the wheels and make sure something there is not seized or locked up before you devote all your time to the engine per se." Maybe I got lucky with the set screw backing out and causing all this. It sure prevented the engine from seizing up due to gas diluted oil and now I know how exactly gas in the oil can ruin an engine. In addition, I know how to go about rebuilding it and have looked through the B&S rebuilding steps on their web site. This isnt the same as the experience of actually doing it but its something. Thanks again, Tim...See More1saxman
15 years agothe_0utsider
15 years agoEric Frantz
8 years agolast modified: 8 years agorustyj14
8 years agorustyj14
8 years agorustyj14
8 years agomdstamen
8 years agotinkerer200
8 years agorustyj14
8 years agoDave Bittinger
8 years agotomplum
8 years ago
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