Is the drain plug on the side opposite the carburetor? If it is, you can safely tilt the mower up and rest it on the wheels. Put a piece of cardboard between the drain plug and deck and pull the plug. Throw away the cardboard and there should be no oil on the deck. Even without the paper guard, there would only be an oil film on the deck after it finishes draining into the catch pan, which would be easy to wipe up.

saxman.
Yes the plug is opposite the carb. There is a tiny bit of room to insert something in front of the plug. After looking it over a bit, the spilled oil can be cleaned up and won't get on parts. I was just hoping for a cleaner way. Perhaps, I'll find a way before its time to change the oil out.

I like to install a 3/8" pipe long enough to clear the mounting plate and then put on a 90 degree elbow with a pipe plug in the end.....Good luck.....E T .....

Try this, I got mine at Lowes for $29.00, works great - use on warm oil,not HOT.
http://www.liquivac.com/index.php?a=4

While I totally brag about my Tru-cut and generally think it's an awesome mower, they completely blew it on this one aspect. I think if you'll check, you won't be able to completely remove that drain plug. I can't on mine! That being said, it only takes me about 5 to 10 minutes to pull the motor to change the oil. While changing the oil, I also completely wipe down the engine block & the deck of the mower.

Now then, after seeing the LiquiVac that Joe linked to above, I really think I'll get one of those. I think I'd use it for my mid-season oil change, and I'll still pull the motor for the over-the-winter major maintenance, which includes removing the reel also & greasing every zerk on the machine, oiling all the chains well, etc.

I mow every 2nd or 3rd day all during the growing season & I think the maintenance is very important.

My 2 cents,

Dan

I use a vacuum can myself for most mower oil changes but didn't recommend it in this case. The only way to use it on this layout would be to tilt the mower the wrong way then take out the drain plug and insert the vacuum line - not good. If you just take out the drain plug with the mower level, oil gets all over the deck. The only way is to tilt it and drain it. It's also the best way.

Joe. The liquivac looks like a handy gizmo. I'm going to try to fight the urge to get one. As much as I like gizmos, I'm trying to cut back on the number around the house :).

Dan. Ugh! I did not know that you could not remove the plug. But, you and I have the same mower. So, I'm guessing I will run into the problem. Perhaps, I'll just have to remove the motor.

Let me start by saying I don't have much GC135/GC160/GC190 experience, but I am familiar with drain plug issues on Tru-Cut as well as Trimmer and other manufacturers.

On many machines where a Briggs was fitted by the manufacturer, the engine would only have a forward drain which would interfere with the clutches. The drain pipe plug would be replaced with an Allen type pipe plug, which was still inaccessable, meaning either the engine had to be removed, or in some cases the whole machine tipped to drain thru the fill port.

I'm sure you've done this, but most Honda engines (older G series and the commercial GX's) have drains at front and rear. Is this a possibility on your GC?

Second, can you tip the mower up, and drain out of the fill tube. It's clumsy and inelegant, but if you have one person hold the catch container while you tip the mower, you should be able to drain everything and still not spill. This is very common on many vertical shaft rotary engines which no longer have a below deck drain plug.

Lastly, after the engine is out of warranty, and if you don't have a rear drain plug, you might consider removing engine, removing side cover, and drilling and tapping rear boss to install a second drain plug. You have to be careful to capture all chips and ensure that threads are properly formed.

Yup, the CG135 only has the drain on the front, and no, you cannot remove the drain plug without removing the engine (on this mower.)

Removing is really straightforward and simple to do and only takes me 5 to 10 minutes. The whole deal, start to finish, putting the mower up on the bench, removing the chain guard & main drive chain, the 4 engine mount bolts, draining the oil, putting in new oil, oiling the chain, & putting it all back together is probably around 30 minutes (now that I've done it a few times.)

I really like the idea of a rear drain plug though. Maybe a good January or February project :)

I'm not familiar with your mower. However on others with a difficult to reach plug, oil is drained out the fill pipe simply by turning the mower on its side.