rcmoser.... Yes, changing oil frequently is good. I actually change the oil every 25 hours of engine time. Every 50 hours, I change the oil filter too. That makes 6 oil changes per year.... We don't often get feedback as to how effective frequent oil changes are in preserving our engines. I recently had to disassemble my 26 hp Briggs Intek V-twin to replace a leaking sump gasket. The engine has been mine since new, with the above oil change schedule. Currently the hour meter reads 751 hours. Below, I will post two pictures of what my 'lower end' looked like when I cracked it open, for the first time, last month (before any cleanup). In the pictures you can see the sump gasket pieces scattered all over the sump and block. Other than the gasket pieces the 'lower end' is perfectly clean. Not a sign of any gunk or sludge could be found. Now I know why Briggs designed the engine with that oil screen in the bottom of the sump. The purpose of the screen is to prevent pieces of their cheap and poorly applied sump gasket from reaching the oil pump!

Don't even think about using any type of RTV (silicone) or other product on the head gasket. These gaskets already have either a "coating" or are "infused with" compounds to help then adhere to the head and 'block", and seal up tiny scratches and imperfections that might be present. If the gasket is of the "composite type" (pressed fiber/paper/metal), the following is how I tackle them. Absolute cleanliness of the mating surfaces is critical. I recommend using a liquid "decal and paint remover" to soften and loosen "composite type" gaskets (methylene chloride, brush on or spray on paint remover) followed by scraping with a brass or bronze "soft scraper" (so you don't gouge the aluminum). After carefully "scraping" the gaskets off, you want to use a "very fine" "scotch brite" pad to get rid of the remaining traces of gasket. Finally, use lacquer thinner or spray carb cleaner and a lint free towel or rag to clean up any residue left on the mating surfaces and inside the edges of any holes or cavities on the head and block. You should plan to change the oil and filter after you get the engine running. Just run it long enough (10 mintues or so) to get everything heated up so large debris (those little bits of gasket) can be washed to the sump and the oil filter can trap the micro debris. If the gasket is made of 100% "stamped sheet metal", skip the paint remover & scraping and go directly to the part of final cleaning with lacquer thinner or spray carb cleaner. Most stamped sheet metal gaskets have a very thin coating of "sealant" already on them. It is important that you clean the mating surfaces of the head and block using the above solvents to get rid of any traces of this sealant that might have transferred to the block or head. When handling the new gaskets (either type) make certain your hands are clean (or rubber gloved) so you don't contaminate the sealing compounds/coatings on/in the new gasket. Never clean a new gasket with any type of solvent, doing so can defeat the ability of the new gasket to adhere and seal properly.

"using catch can, test for fuel flow to carb inlet by cranking engine. Be careful of fire." I would point out this will do no good as the engine has a fuel pump built into the carb. As mentioned way back up on this very old thread, check the vacuum impulse line from the engine block to the fuel pump. This will be the bottom line, gas line is on the side IF you took the fuel pump apart, did you find and properly replace the 2 tiny springs? I can send you a Service Manual for the engine IF you like. Address below, put in proper format and remind me the engine model number and what you want. Walt Conner wconner5 at frontier dot com

I haven't checked that shroud, but will. I have asked the dealer twice about replacing the tube, but it has yet to be done. They didn't say anything about known carb issues, just saying maybe there was trash they missed. The filter is clean and new, how much trash could be between teh filter and the carb by now? I'm thinking about adjusting the valves before I take it back to them just to see how loose they are. It seems to run fine until it warms up. I'ma decent shadetree mechanic for outboards and cars, just hate to tinker with a $1000 mower motor....