Don't even think about using any type of RTV (silicone) or other product on the head gasket. These gaskets already have either a "coating" or are "infused with" compounds to help then adhere to the head and 'block", and seal up tiny scratches and imperfections that might be present. If the gasket is of the "composite type" (pressed fiber/paper/metal), the following is how I tackle them. Absolute cleanliness of the mating surfaces is critical. I recommend using a liquid "decal and paint remover" to soften and loosen "composite type" gaskets (methylene chloride, brush on or spray on paint remover) followed by scraping with a brass or bronze "soft scraper" (so you don't gouge the aluminum). After carefully "scraping" the gaskets off, you want to use a "very fine" "scotch brite" pad to get rid of the remaining traces of gasket. Finally, use lacquer thinner or spray carb cleaner and a lint free towel or rag to clean up any residue left on the mating surfaces and inside the edges of any holes or cavities on the head and block. You should plan to change the oil and filter after you get the engine running. Just run it long enough (10 mintues or so) to get everything heated up so large debris (those little bits of gasket) can be washed to the sump and the oil filter can trap the micro debris. If the gasket is made of 100% "stamped sheet metal", skip the paint remover & scraping and go directly to the part of final cleaning with lacquer thinner or spray carb cleaner. Most stamped sheet metal gaskets have a very thin coating of "sealant" already on them. It is important that you clean the mating surfaces of the head and block using the above solvents to get rid of any traces of this sealant that might have transferred to the block or head. When handling the new gaskets (either type) make certain your hands are clean (or rubber gloved) so you don't contaminate the sealing compounds/coatings on/in the new gasket. Never clean a new gasket with any type of solvent, doing so can defeat the ability of the new gasket to adhere and seal properly.

Hmmm interesting comments on the gasket sealant tip - never thought that they might be coated... but it makes sense.

I hope im looking at a head gasket - and not some sort of crack in the block... I assume nothing is terribly wrong with the motor as it runs strong.

thx

Valve cover leaks are common on the Inteks and you may use RTV black on these.

Hi all - i have a second thread running on this issue that talks about estimated time - but as of today- I don't actually have a leaking head gasket.

After removing the shroud from the cylinder (next to the oil filter). I see that the shroud bolt below the head, is actually a bolt that holds the split cases together. It was not tight.

I was able to get the shroud off and torque it down a bit, topped it off it oil and took it out into the woods and gunked it off real good. This looks like the source of my problem as when I tightened it up I could see the case squeeze out a lot of oil. With the motor running for nearly 45 minutes I have very little leakage now.

But since my muffler was oil soaked the unit did smoke a lot... I shut it off a few times, avoiding a possible fire. luckily it was breezy so it didn't look like a smoke bomb went off in the yard.

Im not pleased with the shrouding design directly around the muffler. With all the shrouding installed its a very closed up area where debris and twigs can sit. Perhaps everything was stuck in there because it was oil soaked.

I am tempted to modify the shrouding a bit to permit easier cleaning, improve clearance, and airflow around the muffler area.

The problem is that the distance between the from of the tractor fram and the back of the muffler is very tight - so I dont think I have many options in that area. But I should be able to at leat pick up a little bit of space on top and in front of the muffler.

I'll have to run the machine for a few days to see if the muffler and related brackets dry up - and let the debris fall from the area. (under normal circumstances).

Maybe this shroud modification isn't necessary once the muffler system is nice and dry ( since it isn't bathed in oil an longer).

Anybody else run into this problem ?

Thanks - Dave

Hey Dave: I'm sure the oil will eventually burn out of the muffler, but is there any chance you can spray brake parts cleaner into it with the muffler removed?

I've been using the El cheapo brake parts cleaner for some of my other cleanup chores, and it works very well on oil, and in some cases that gray looking grease too. Just a thought.

Well at this time muffler is no longer shiney from being soaked and it doesnt smoke nearly has bad as it was. So im gonna run it a bit more, weather permitting.

I can live with a slight weeping from that area (if I have to)...

Today I took a flashlight over to the tractor to see how much clearance I had between the back of the muffler and the front of the frame, sadly I dont have much and as I cleaned some gunk out of there I found small stones and even an old bolt that I once lost (and could never find).

Thanks