Sure , the flywheel key shearing will cause a kick back. If you are actually saying that one end of the crank turns and the other doesn't for half a turn, I'd say the crank is the issue. Odd to have happen tho. From the symptoms, it seems to be the key is sheared in the blade hub however. A hub that won't lock to the crank will shear the key at the flywheel.

Mr Kapaun, my most humble apology. I am not computer literate, yet, so I was not aware the two items I sent were not to be together for the readers. I had the filler cap off while I was cranking the engine over to get the gasoline out of the cylinder. That's when the air/oil residue came out the filler. It would appear I need to seek a repair person locally to fix the engine, as I am having a difficult time putting in words what the engine problem is. Again, to all, I apologize for my making two entries on the same problem. Thank you all so much.

I hope someone smarter than me on these small engines answers your question, but it sure sounds like a fuel delivery problem since you have good spark at both plugs and a new air filter. Maybe a leak between the intake manifold and carb at that cylinder head, or a carb needle jet plugged by old fuel residue not allowing enough fuel to feed both cylinders under normal conditions?

You guys have been VERY helpful - wish i could buy you all a beer... Turns out the engine is a Tecumseh and NOT a Briggs & Stratton ... No where on the engine did it say Tecumseh - I finally found a sticker on the side of the engine with some numbers which turned out to be sears parts numbers and then finally I traced a part number to 36680 (a tecumseh Starter motor part number) Anyhow - i found a couple of aftermarket starters for the about $49-59 dollars a real Tec. Starter (#36680) is about $125 bucks (definitely not going to happen). I question the value of this tractor no cutting deck, rough shape, etc. --- I would not pay $50 dollars for the tractor - So Im not sure I would spend the $50-60 to actually repair it... As suggested - I will continue to search for a bargain starter - I know if I wait long enough Ill get it for a good price... BUT to confuse things further - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Today I ran into someone who put out an older Snapper lawn mower with a 8hp Briggs and a 30ish inch cutting deck onto their front lawn (for free!) Its rough - but its free... (wow - that 8HP B+S engine is a lot bigger than the 8hp tecemseh engine) Its a pull start unit (no electric starting), owner tells me it will fire up with starting fluid but wont run, it did run last spring... So Im thinking Ill "grab her snapper" - toss the sears tractor (but keep the tecumseh motor just in case). And work the Briggs motor/carb into something usable.... QUESTIONS: -- - - - - -- - - - - - - 1. Do any of you happen to know if theres enough meat on the back of that funky looking Snapper tractor to mount my crumy little ball hitch to drag around my trailers? The Snapper Im talking about looks roughly like this one http://www.snapper.com/rear_engine_riders.html except older i did not think to look for that when i was looking the snapper over... 2. Do any of you know if the engine mounting bolt patterns for a 8HP Tecumseh and a 8HP B&S engine are the same??? Granted the snapper has the mowing deck (but I got a scotts 2046 for mowing). The sears is a good slow mule for my intentions of moving trailers, moving stone and logs around the property Plus im gonna have to take the pully into consideration (that sounds messy)... im guessing crank diameters dont match... 3. Do you think the Snapper has a torque-y transmission transaxle (whatever it has under there) to do roughly what Im doing with my Sears? The Snapper Im talking about looks roughly like this one http://www.snapper.com/rear_engine_riders.html Im thinking the Snapper might be a good choice Your thoughts please Mucho Thanks - Dave