Sometimes you just get a bad patch and you are within every single homeowner's/paying customer's right to call and inquire about the patches that do not match the ones that seem to be doing well and request to have them replaced. I'd say that at this time of the year, if it isn't doing the same as the others within 3 to 4 weeks, it's time to have that patch replaced. The longer you wait into the hot weather, the more difficult it may be for that newer patch to play catch up. JMO. We had to have an entire 15 ft row of ours replaced (bermuda, not zoysia) 4 years ago when we had over 10K square feet installed in our front yard. They did it with those big 3 ft "rolls" and they came out and replaced the entire roll. (If I had it to do over, I would have chosen the squares from a more local place because I've seen the quality of sod that comes out of their location which has similar soil as my yard) Dora

You didn't mention topsoil in the first message. It sounds like you might have other elements to this renovation that you might not realize are important. Topsoil is only needed if you have low spots which hold rainwater or irrigation for days at a time. If you don't need to change the drainage, then don't bring in more topsoil. Topsoil will always change your existing drainage. The problem comes if you happen to build a dam with it that prevents drainage near your house and the water backs up into your basement. I have pictures of houses where the owner has been adding "1/4-inch of topsoil every year," because someone told them to, 40 years ago. Now they have 10 inches of extra soil to deal with. If they are lucky it has been washing out. I don't need to make a big deal out of it, but you're in the southern part of the transition zone where any grass can do well. Visit Mobile next July if you want to experience some heat. In Atlanta if you wanted a northern grass like fescue, you could do that. Fescue remains green all winter but can get dry in the summer. Assuming the grass is adapted to the area, all of them need approximately the same amount of water to look green. The idea that zoysia or bermuda needs less water is a misrepresentation of the science. With no water at all zoysia and bermuda will go dormant and come back when it rains. On the other hand, St Augustine will die. But if you want any of them to look green, they need about an inch of water per week in the heat of summer. The only grasses that really can look green with "less water" are the prairie grasses like blue grama, wheatgrass, and buffalo grass. Those are extremely full sun types, though. Any shade at all and they will thin out to bare soil. My problem with most zoysias is that if/when it gets into trouble from heat, disease, or insects, and it goes dormant during the growing season, in my experience no matter what you do to it to make it recover, the grass remains dormant until the following April. That was not a zeon zoysia, but it is a concern. The other popular southern grasses are St Augustine and bermuda. Bermuda can look incredible with a lot of work. St Augustine can look pretty darned good with a lot less work. 90+% of all the southern lawns are St Aug or bermuda. The rest are a mix of zoysia, centipede, bahia, and buffalo. Rollers are necessary whether you rototill or not. The roller is used after sodding to make sure the bottom of the sod is making good contact with the top of the soil. What Tom said about the 2-step approach to RoundUp is good. I just would not rototill in between. The problem with tilling is you can never hold the tiller at the same depth. It's going to hit rocks, roots, and hard spots that cause it to buck up like a bronco. It's also going to hit soft spots and dig in deep. All that leaves an uneven subsurface that did not get tilled. When you level the surface the subsurface remains uneven. The depth of the fluffy soil in between will vary from the level surface down to the uneven subsurface. As that fluffy soil settles it will match the profile of the uneven subsurface. There are your future bumps. Pressing the soil down with a roller might help kickstart the settling process, but why go to all that cost and trouble. I would kill the surface plants as explained by Tom. Then put the sod down and roll it. Then start watering lightly several times every day to keep the top of the soil just barely moist. The roots will knit into the soil in a few weeks. Then you can back off on watering frequency and increase the depth of watering until you are deep watering about once a week. This approach saves the time and cost of rototill and new topsoil. When the zeon sod arrives be sure everything is ready and you have the needed manpower to put it down immediately. It should not sit on the pallet too long. You're going to be pleasantly surprised with the shampoo.

I think the answer is, no. Nobody has heard of it, yet.

Eli, Welcome to Texas. Sorry your first experience here with a lawn contractor has not been a better one. Take-all root rot (TARR) hit our Dallas neighborhood and much of north Texas especially hard again last year which might explain the poor condition of your original St. Augustine lawn. There is no timely rehabbing of large areas destroyed by this disease, so you likely would have had to plug, patch, or resod with new St. Augustine anyway if you hadn't decided to switch to Zoysia. TARR thrives in the high pH of our soil and tap water, so application of an iron & soil acidifier is one common measure to subdue it where it has been a problem. Am guessing that may have been a motive for your installer's "iron" treatment - if so, that's a good thing. Tilling is not essential if the surface and slope are good and the soil is not seriously compacted. We over sodded St Augustine with 'Pallisade' Zoysia last spring that had last been tilled and leveled in 2012. Major difference is we did kill the existing turf first. Suspect you'll get some return, especially around the edges and gaps. Though should stand out and be fairly easy to deal with, but a pain and legit knock against the installer for not offering herbicide treatment. Know some folks decline anyway over objections to using glyphosate (or similar) and the added time/cost for alternatives of running a sod cutter or solarization probably don't fit well in most bids. Agree with dchall on not worrying about the lack of top growth as long as it is putting down healthy roots. Ours took a couple months getting roots established even in the spring before starting to show much top growth and it's now shutting down for the winter. Sounds like they got yours in early enough to endure our typical freezes, but you'll probably not see much change until spring. It's commonly recommended that sod be laid in an overlapping pattern like brickwork (or staggered). Looks like your seams are lined up down the slope of your front yard - am I seeing that right in the photo? If so, should still be fine in time - just may be a bit harder to keep the gaps filled if there is much rain before they're grown over. Though it's a clear amateur or careless mistake for a professional sod installer to make.... in addition to those abnormally large gaps. We're really happy with the switch to Zoysia and imagine your 'Zeon' will look great early next summer with your continued care. edit - had "checkerboard" where I meant "staggered". The symmetry of brickwork is not important, it's avoiding straight uninterrupted seams running down the slope of the yard.