I tried seam foam in the air intake. I wasn't expecting it to do very much, if the carb was clogged. I also poured some seafoam in the fuel tank. I pulled the fuel line off of the carb intake and turned the key. The fuel pump is working and dumped a lot of fuel out of the line. I pulled the carb apart. It looked clean. I sprayed carb cleaner where I could. I wasn't sure how to properly clean a carb, so I just tried to spray it in all the orifices and let it soak and leak through. I fired it up and it ran fine. I'm just hoping it stays that way. It started out as an intermittent problem. I also replaced the plug and fuel filter.

Ive had a similar problem with an engine of mine. Water in the fuel system caused it to chug, using the choke helped a bit - but obviously does not cure the problem. It got really bad when mowing at a particular angle (yard is sloped a bit ) If possible I would try and pull the full bowl from the carb - and catch all fluids into a tray or similar for inspection. If you find water in the carb then do yourself a favor... - Completely drain the entire fuel system. - Pull the fuel line and hang it (and the filter) vertically in the sun so that the filter and hose can drain itself and dry out. - leave the tank in the sun with the cap off for a few hours (or day). - If you need to accelerate the drying process wash everything out with ordinary rubbing alcohol and place the parts in front of a fan. The alcohol will help pull the water out of the system. ( dont use scotch or beer for this process). Some carbs have a brass push-type valve on the bottom of the fuel bowl (I love this setup) as its a real time saver. Just push the brass button for 5 seconds and drain it into your wifes finest china tea cups - Look for water. I get a lot of water in my gas tanks - so I typically push that little brass button every few weeks just to make sure their is minimal water in the system - works great. IF you have one of these brass drain valves - then you wont have to drain / dry the system... Just push the button for a second or two for the next few weeks. Depending on how much water you have in the system - you may need to push the button a few times during your 1st mowing session (but its a heck of a lot better than draining and drying the whole system. I dont think these brass valves can be retro fitted into fuel bowls without them... Im sure not every bowl would be a good candidate for one - and positioning them into the bowl would be tricky as well. But you might ask around for a bowl with one of them already installed. Good luck - Dave

Baymee, I may have given the wrong impression to you about the "dry/wet test" in this specific case. I did not realize how my post might be misconstrued until I read it again today. The dry/wet test IS NOT suggested as part of the evaluation of piston rings if the engine has another compromising defect (such as "blown head gasket") that has already been confirmed. The dry/wet test is actually intended to help one determine whether LOW COMPRESSION on a cylinder is due to a defect in the valves/seats............or whether it is due to worn piston rings. A significant increase of compression after adding oil to the cylinder indicates worn rings. No increase of compression (wet test) usually indicates that the condition causing the low compression reading on a cylinder will be found in the valves area. As to how oil will distribute evenly (when the pistons lie horizontal): Piston rings are not rigid components pushing against the cylinder walls and piston ring grooves to affect a tight seal all by themselves. Piston rings are actually "inflatable devices" that expand against the cylinder walls, and the lower portion of the ring grooves (ring lands) when the pressure of compression acts upon them. Because of this "inflation process", some gases will escape past the rings to the crankcase before the rings fully inflate (blow by). The condition worsens with advanced ring wear. But because any oil that is introduced to the cylinder for a "wet test" will also try to follow the escaping gases as they blow by the piston rings, enough oil will be "force fed" to all the surfaces that play a part in inflation of the piston rings. In this particular case and on this subject engine, if you find a blown head gasket on one head.........a dry/wet test would not help determine if the piston rings are good on THAT cylinder. But, if the opposite cylinder does not have a blown head gasket, a dry/wet test could be done there to give an indication of ring condition. And let me add that only when a cylinder actually shows to have less than specified compression pressure, would a dry/wet test need to be done. An engine with normal compression across all cylinders does not need to be evaluated this way.

Worn rings, bad valve guides, too much oil in the crankcase, who knows??? My crystal ball is in the repair shop. You say nothing as to the year of the tractor, who services it and how often, how many hours are or might be on it. Is your warranty expired?