I would think a pump would be needed on this. These pull fuel from the top of the tank if i recall correctly. So, I assume that all is on the block is the cast boss and no little steel cover? 12 volt pumps are available from auto part stores. To my knowledge, Kohler doesn't publish a pressure spec on the mechanical pump. What is too much pressure, I couldn't say. The Walbro pump I have on the shelf is a min 4.7# pump.

i have a jd stx46 it will crank but will not start I have put a new solenoid on a new carb on a new ignition module on checked flywheel for sheared jetway installed new sparkplug have brand new battery fully charged have tried starting with parking brake on and seat safety switch depressed even tried with safety switches bypassed yesterday I pulled the valve cover tirned the motor by hand observing valve operation removed spark plug got piston on compression stoke at top dead center did not measure valve lash but there was enough play to wiggle rocker arms have not done a compression check going to town to get a compression tester try again any ideas would be greatly appreciated

The problem with the fuel is likely due to varnish that has formed in the carburetor bowl. Ignore an empty "looking" fuel filter, it does not indicate a problem (except if the tank is empty, then it means the tank is empty). Don't bother changing the spark plugs either. If they were new (or almost) last fall, they're still good. Spark plugs do not get "moldy" from sitting. Since you are able to get the engine started, you can try adding Seafoam fuel treatment to the fuel and running the engine long enough to allow the Seafoam to begin cleaning out the varnish. You could speed up the cleaning process by taking the carb bowl off and cleaning the jets with spray carb cleaner. Even if you do that, you still need the Seafoam added to the fuel. Also, be sure the fuel tank cap vent is not clogged. **** When I went to start it, battery was dead. I had it recharged successfully***** Successfully??? That may not be true. It is very common for a battery that has been dead for some time, to be "recharged" and subsequently suffer total failure or very reduced capacity. You may think the battery came back to life, and it may show 12 or more volts immediately after being charged, but that voltage proves nothing about the available power the battery has (or doesn't have). The true measure of a battery is the load test. Have the battery load tested by an auto parts store or a good auto shop. It is also possible that your charging system is not working at full output. I doubt the stalling and slow RPM are related to the electrical system UNLESS........the engine uses "battery and coil" ignition. Tell us what engine your tractor has, and post the engine model and type numbers, or model and spec numbers, whichever apply to your particular engine.

Hi, Thanks for all of the responses. I did not replace the condensor, and how would I go about testing for compression? As for timing, I cannot find any marks on the flywheel. I have the piston all the way at the top of the chamber (it's all the way up directly underneath the plug), but maybe that is incorrect. Supposedly the belts for the deck kept slipping off and then the guy moved. It's been sitting in my father in law's shed for the past 4 of those ten years. I'll try to soak the carb for a while in one of those carb dip buckets. Thanks again!