I've been reading these forums for a long time and can count on my fingers the number of writers who claim to have good luck with Scott's with weed control. Generally Weed-n-Feed products do not work as well as the marketing people lead you to believe. You'll get much better results fertilizing first and then spot spraying something like Weed-G-Gone two weeks after the fertilizer. That timing break explains the reason why WNF doesn't work. The weeds need to be growing well to die well. If you apply both at once, the herbicide dissipates before the weed gets healthy enough to take it up. Crabgrass in bermuda is darned hard to control. There are some chemicals that might work but the best defense is a strong, dense turf. Water deeply and infrequently to minimize the weed seed germination. Deeply means for an hour per zone and infrequently means weekly during the summer. Mow bermuda at your mower's lowest setting, and fertilize monthly for best control.

english ivy, bermuda grass the two nastiest creatures there are. There are those weed-torches, a propane burner on a stick, essentially. You could burn them out regularly. That's the only non-chemical solution I can think of...and the bermuda will send runners underground into your bed no matter what you do. A trumpet-type vine like Bignonia capreolata 'Tangerine Beauty', for example, or purple or white "potato vine", Solanum jasminoides. Though watch out on letting the vine get too thick--rats love a thick vine on a chain link fence for nesting and hiding places. And you'll still have those weeds to deal with. Landscape fabric is usually not a good solution. The weeds simply grow on top of the fabric, people neglet to renew the mulch, and the area often quickly deteriorates into an ugly mess. Good luck!

Your first step is to identify the weeds. One size does not fit all when it comes to weed control. Going foward you probly should use sprigs or plugs instead of seed to fill in while useing chemicals on the lawn. Atrazine and hormone-type herbicides such as 2,4-D and MCPP can be used to control most broadleaved weeds including clover, chickweed, henbit and thistle. Herbicides should be applied in the fall or winter before these weeds mature. Crabgrass and other summer annuals are most effectively controlled with preemerge herbicides applied in early spring before the weeds emerge. Products containing benefin, DCPA, bensulide or simazine can be effectively used for crabgrass control when applied according to label instructions.

Thanks for providing a photo. The weed grass is the only thing I see from the picture and is what I call 'winter grass'. It is an annual, which means it grows from seed each year. It will die when the hot weather sets in, but only after it scatters it's seeds for next year. In the meantime it will have shaded out what St. Augustine grass there is and it will take a while to fill back in. Plus you will still have the dead clumps to deal with. Pulling it out clump by clump is what I did, but if you don't have the time and inclination to pull it out you can try keeping it mowed very close to keep it from going to seed, but that will not work 100% of the time because it seems the seeds will just grow horizonally below mower height and then they would still have to be pulled. It's a tenacious little bugger to get rid of. Little clumps will keep coming up and going to seed. You really have to keep after it for a couple of years. This coming fall you can spread some pre-emergent weed killer at the proper time, around the end of September I think, and this will help to keep the seeds from germinating, but you'll still have to pull a few clumps as soon as you see them. Now is the time to spread compost and Fertile Garden on Leslie Rd. is the recommended place to get it. They have several compost mixtures for grass. You can talk to them and see what is recommended for your conditions. If you have pretty good soil already you can probably get by with spreading an organic fertilizer such as fifty pounds of soy bean meal per 1000 sq. feet of lawn. Looks like you have the makings there for a beautiful expansive lawn. Hope this give you a few ideas on how to proceed. If you post your pictures and questions on the 'discussions' forum, which is more widely read, you will get some more answers. Scroll around on the link below for 'Turf Grass' for additional information. Here is a link that might be useful: Plant Answers ...