Weed-b-Gon Max has different ingredients that the former Weed-b-Gon. It's said to be effective on more weeds and also kills crabgrass. What you're seeing now are likely winter annual weeds that will die off soon as temps heat up. Right now many are flowering for next year's crop, so you'll want to use a pre-m product in the fall to prevent them. Halts is labeled for preventing grassy weeds like crabgrass, and Portrait (scroll down) is labeled for pre-emergence control of broadleaf weeds. You've already put down the Halts and you can apply Portrait now to prevent dandelions and other broadleafs from cropping up this spring and summer. That is preferred to using combo products that contain both fertilizer and herbicide. If you plan to overseed in fall, you can't use the pre-m herbicides although the makers of Portrait told me it does not prevent grass from germinating. You might want to double check that with them. If you plan to aerate, rake, till, or do anything that scratches/disturbs the soil's top layer, you want to do those before applying. The pre-m herbicides form a barrier on the soil surface, so you don't want to break the barrier. You'll find a schedule here for maintaining your lawn year round. Pay particular attention to the paragraphs on watering and mowing.

That was about half of two different thoughts. Sorry! For long-residual pre-emergents like Prodiamine, early is not an issue at all. With an eight month coverage at the top end, being a week or three early isn't significant. Coverage still lasts into mid-November. Some pre-emergents have shorter residuals out of the bag, right down to 1 month or so for Tenacity. Timing there is critical. For something off the shelf, like Dimension, you'll get two to four months depending on the application rate. Application now will get you through the worst of the weed sprout, but crabgrass can sprout any time the soil is warm enough--and for both of us, that's September. You'll either want to keep a continuous shield down by reapplying, or use a long-residual pre-emergent. In no case are you going to damage your soil or lawn by applying a pre-emergent too early. The only thing you'll lose is days or a few weeks at the other end of the cycle. So it's technically always OK (if the ground is unfrozen), but might be wasteful. The general biological key I use is to apply when the forsythia is fully budded up to bloom. At that point, soil temperatures are wavering right around fifty. But with scheduling difficulties, I've done it a bit early as the buds were showing, but not colored up yet. Right now, the forsythia are showing buds formed last fall, but no development is in evidence at this point here in eastern PA. So it's too early for the maximum window of protection. But as noted above, mine goes into mid-November when it long since stopped mattering anyway. In my case, application now would be just fine (if the ground were unfrozen, which it isn't), as what I give up doesn't matter in the slightest.

The best weed control is proper cultural practices. The most important thing is having the correct grass for the situation. If you have a full sun grass planted in the shade, then no amount of care will prevent the grass from getting thin and weeds popping up. Assuming your lawn is appropriate for the location, then it comes down to caring for the lawn with proper watering, then mowing, then fertilizer. Here are the basics. Basics of Lawn Care After reading numerous books and magazines on lawn care, caring for lawns at seven houses in my life, and reading numerous forums where real people write in to discuss their successes and failures, I have decided to side with the real people and dispense with the book and magazine authors. I don't know what star their planet rotates around but it's not mine. With that in mind, here is the collected wisdom of the Internet savvy homeowners and lawn care professionals summarized in a few words. If you follow the advice here you will have conquered at least 50% of all lawn problems. Once you have these three elements mastered, then you can worry about weeds (if you have any), dog spots, and striping your lawn. But if you are not doing these three things, they will be the first three things suggested for you to correct. 1. Watering Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an inch in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. Do not spread this out and water for 10 minutes every day. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. If that does not work, then you might have to water more than once per week during the summer's hottest period. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. You will have to learn to judge when to water your own lawn. If you live in El Paso your watering will be different than if you live in Vermont. Adjust your watering to your type of grass, temperature, humidity, wind, and soil type. It is worth noting that this technique is used successfully by professionals in Phoenix, so...just sayin.' The other factors make a difference. If you normally water 1 inch per week and you get 1/2 inch of rain, then adjust and water only 1/2 inch that week. 2. Mowing Every week mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses will become the most dense when they are mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. In fact there are special mowers that can mow these grasses down to 1/16 inch. Dense grass shades out weeds, keeps the soil cooler, and uses less water than thin grass. Tall grass can feed the deep roots you developed in #1 above. Tall grass does not grow faster than short grass nor does it look shaggy sooner. Once all your grass is at the same height, tall grass just looks plush. 3. Fertilizing Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it (unless you use organics in which case you may overdo it without fear of hurting anything). At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide.

I have been doing some research on moss because I have it too.There is some stuff you can put down.But usually moss grows due to low PH in your soil.That means they love acidy soils..I seen some people say start adding lime to your lawn to get the PH level to go up in your dirt.Also Ash from a fireplace is also another form of lime.Sprinkle that on top of the moss and it should go away,