Could be plugged Exhaust ports, not to be confussed with muffler outlet.

By the way, posting in all caps is not SOP.

Walt Conner

walt could you explain too un clog them
thank you

Disconnect the spark plug wire, turn mower on its' side, remove blade, remove blade adapter, remove muffler, turn the crankshaft until the piston uncovers the exhaust ports. The book says to use a wooden dowel rod cut at angle to clean out port holes. I use a considerably more aggressive method including an electric drill and shooting compressed air in thru the spark plug hole to blow displaced carbon out during process.(wear eye protection)

Walt Conner

walt thank you
i will try that
i will post my results
should i change the oil seal why i am there

"should i change the oil seal why i am there"

Don't mess with the oil seal unless it is obviously leaking, wet, oily, mess just below seal.

Walt Conner

thank you
do you know the size socket i would need too pull the blade
i tryed a 1 inch socket and it was a little big.
do i turn the nut clockwise or counter clock wise,too loosen nut.
thank you again walt

15/16"- Counter.

well
i uncovered the 3 exhaust ports and they were clear,
if those are them,what do i do next,the muffler is clear
the sealwas not leaking but there was carbon build up around the shaft,but no oil.should i pull the coil,and put it in the oven,is the adjuster screw on the carb need too be adjusted,im lost
please help

To me it sounds fuel related. You had mentioned in the first post about when you shut the fuel shutoff halfway it would idle up. I'd say get back into the carb. That float sounds like its flooding the engine. The float may be out of whack or something. Be sure to check the needle and seat real well also. If you have compressed air blow the heck out of everything real good. Do not blow the reed valves on the engine though.

Neal

i put new float in carb,needle and seat too.
and carb gaskets
maybe i should change carb,what do you think,maybe its warped,from heat.
thank you

Just a thought,

What about the fuel valve itself? Could it be partially plugged? Maybe thats why it only works half way open.

i would think it wouldnt flood engine when i fully open valve
i put the coil in the oven for a hour and a half,on 200 degrees and cleaned the coil,and installed it,but no luck,it is still running the same,it run rich and wont idle high when i move govner,stumped

guys im still lost with this problem,please help

Gosh Arden, I'm sorry you are still having problems with this.

You say the seals are good. The carb has been rebuilt, the exhaust ports are clean.

How is the compression on the engine? With your finger over the spark plug hole you should feel quite a bit of resistance when you turn the engine over. If you have a compression guage it should read between 80-100psi cold after a few good pulls.

If the compression is low it could be the rings are worn down and need replaced or the cylinder is scratched, or the rings are stuck in their grooves causing a loss of compression.

Also, is their any oil leaking around the crankcase halves or under or on top the seal areas?

Is the carb warped on the flange mount? It should be flush with the manifold. (don't overtighten the carb screws either)
How do the reed valves look? check in there with a flashlight and be sure nothing is lodged between reed and manifold. (like a piece of grass etc)

Let us know.

Neal

someonehad mentioned oil leaking, is it normal for a small amount of oil to leak onto the case of the engine where it bolts to the deck? No matter how clean I keep it I always get a little bit of oil there towards the back of the mower after I mow using my 6211.

thank you
neal
i will check these things out,how can i tell if the carb is warped,i tightened the screws on carb with a phillp head,maybe i will retighten again,i will check reed valves too
thank you, i will post results